New Guy Hello / 1992 Suzuki Sidekick Multiple Issues / What to Tackle First?

[ThomasKinzer]

How do I tell if one of these spares is the right ECU or not. Maybe I can at least save the core charge on it.

#1
Edge of board: E331B6418
On main chip: MH75328CPW 349 4221 EB46

#2
Edge of board: E331B619A
On main chip: MH75328CP8 IDI E451A

I read: California, but doesn't match B61 or B64 to any of the ones on the list. Maybe not a Suzuki ECU? They both have a Mitsubishi logo on them.

[fixkick]

those are all super secret Suzuki/mitsubishi codes. you posted, no where is this documented....
So put the lid back on and now read the lid sicker.

all are made by Mitsubishi, under contract, and suzuki spec, every one.
do not panic used ecu can be had for $50 with patience. do no let feabay scalpers fool you, they are that.
the CArdone is a true rebuilt and is more.

this what maters, suzuki sidekick, or Geo tracker.
56 means 8v.
see>
see the US, that is USA spec. ecu
and the AT that is automatic. trans.

that sticker matters, big time. tells you what car it fits.

http://www.fixkick.com/specs/Body-TAGS/h...ge_32.html

How do I tell if one of these spares is the right ECU or not. Maybe I can at least save the core charge on it.

#1
Edge of board: E331B6418
On main chip: MH75328CPW 349 4221 EB46

#2
Edge of board: E331B619A
On main chip: MH75328CP8 IDI E451A

I read: California, but doesn't match B61 or B64 to any of the ones on the list. Maybe not a Suzuki ECU? They both have a Mitsubishi logo on them.

[fixkick]

these ECU do not flash. (not programmable like cars are today)
there is one ecu for every engine, every country ,trans, driveline, made. the numbers must match.

33920- xxxxxxx means ECU.
the suffix matches year, and the whole driveline and even heaver 4door.
id not know your door count
on my pdf its C = 2door, and V = 4door, V means van , C = canvas 2door rag top.

the weight of car matters. in some cases, that is 4door/2 door reason, weight is mass or load.

[fetcher]

If you already have this IAT sensor, would it be practical to give the computer what it is looking for?
It could possibly solve the problem, or at least give you time to buy the correct one at your price.
I hate being in the position of being desperate when buying anything.

[fetcher]

If I had an endless amount of time, I would be very interested it figuring out what is on these chips that run the electronics
that run the world.

[fetcher]

The lamp thing was not supposed to be some kind of advice, I just happened to notice it served more that one purpose in winter, gave off more than just light under the car. I guess it was worth the other 2 that blew out from rough handling. Days are short right now.

[ThomasKinzer]

I can't pop these back into the cases, they are just boards, no case. There's a case in the car. I suspect someone might have been swapping just the boards in the ECU case? For all I know, I have the correct board already. Probably bad, but could be the right one.

The Sidekick is a '92, 4 door, Fed, AT, 1.6L.

I'm seeing some people listing 58B40 for 1994 Sidekicks. I don't want to buy something that puts me right back where I started with it expecting a IAT sensor. On your PDF, I see that's no IAT, 1992 only. Just trust the codes, huh?

@fetcher
I thought about just wiring in an IAT sensor but then thought about the other unknowns, like "know" idea what the ECU is actually for. Could be a manual transmission for all I know. I think I'd rather start troubleshooting from a baseline of the correct ECU or I could be tilting at windmills.

[fixkick]

the worst that one can do is mix base cases and PCB board, Printed circuit boards. "the badguy" seems to get us all,

nobody has documents on the PCB numbers, codes, or reversion, SUZUKI does nor did they ever publish that.
one could try each one at a time, and the one with no IAT error is the correct PCB. that be the only way to learn that
those chips are the micro-processor (with fixed internal program bank of memory , means can not be changed this program) aka, ROM.
the other chips are regulators and buffers, etc. (I/O chips)
end computer class.

yes, someone way playing , making the base case labels now useless, sad day for that. "the badguy" did that. He does things , unexpected.
58B40 is your ECU, US- AT ,"this is the sticker that MATTERS and only MATTERS"
ONLY that number and no others, is a match.
seen in on the PDF that is the correct 92 ECU for 4door, and 16v and A/T FED only.

Line 1-14 in the PDF, official Suzuki parts list, matches your car. and your car will not have and IAT unless its from CALIFORNIA.

I can't pop these back into the cases, they are just boards, no case. ( its just 4 screws)
There's a case in the car.
I suspect someone [b]DID[/b] swap just the boards in the ECU case? (did and YES , they DID, why is the 8th wonder of the world)
For all I know, I have the correct board already. Probably bad, but could be the right one. (any ECU can be good or bad, its old)

The Sidekick is a '92, 4 door, Fed, AT, 1.6L.

I'm seeing some people listing 58B40 for 1994 Sidekicks. (on fleabay , you can see anything! they are not OFFICIALS nor smart, and 1/2 time lies... only the numbers matter !!!!, many are wrecking yards, and they to are clueless. here.)
I don't want to buy something that puts me right back where I started with it expecting a IAT sensor. (well buy the correct one> using he correct number) Nor me, Id try them all, best is the spring.(long days)
On your PDF, I see that's no IAT, 1992 only. Just trust the codes, huh? (the suzuki CODES DO NOT LIE !!!! on that STICKER unless the BADGUY, mixed PCB up willy nilly._

@fetcher
I thought about just wiring in an IAT sensor but then thought about the other unknowns, like "know" idea what the ECU is actually for. Could be a manual transmission for all I know. I think I'd rather start troubleshooting from a baseline of the correct ECU or I could be tilting at windmills.

The ECUs on this car, are like 10 ecu's sold for every country on earth a vast number exist.
I have the book that covers them all world wide, 100's of ECUs.. 56 markets.
that is why the gods of computer invented flash memory, so you can have one ECU and program it for any engine or country, or turbo,options, any transmission. etc. (did you know some ECU can run up to 12 cylinders, a fact)
and last smog laws, the engine is smog controlled and the programming must match that on a world scale.


I suspect the only major issue with your car, is that YOUR TCM does not like your TPS.

BTW most those fleabay hackers, never once seen the SUZUKI part catalog, ever. and then speculate. or worse just tell what car it came off of, and was in fact the wrong ECU along (just like yours is/was), thus causing even more CHAOS. (the word fleabay is earned, its just jokers in garage selling used parts or wrecking yards, scalping buyers) best is to buy from non scaplers, then ask seller to post photo of the TAG, seen on this page. 58B40, do not buy otherwise, Click 'ask seller a question" i do that every time and aks , is the photos show real, not stock fake photos. every time.


If your car was new, you buy one, you must taKE IT THE DEALER TO BE PROGRAMMED Or it would be useless. (or worse)

back in 1992, the ECU can NOT BE PROGRAMMED< they are NOT programmable nor configurable in any way at all, they are HARD FIXED , by end use.
On my new jeep the VIN must match, in the ECU or it will not run.
so be happy that used parts can work, because on newer cars, this magic does not work at all. (buy it , stuff it in and it works magic)

good luck!

PS:
id just fix the TPS. if gas mileage is ok, just the TPS fix ,will fix the transmission if lucky, I hope only the TPS causes the TCM to shift wrong. only that.
The TCM has many inputs, any that are wrong will effect auto shifting, in some way.

I only told you wrong on MAF because, i did not know which lamp was flashing, it was O/D

[fixkick]

this is probably the most complex topic on this car. (H3LL any car) "what ECU brain is best" the only answer is the ECU that came with car, or one with the same TAG data. end story.
how to get the correct ECU for my car.
my pdf is clear, its verbatim out of suzuki master parts list. excerpted and codes revealed by me, V code, C code, E3 , E33, and such.
The other thing to learn about, old ECUs,
is that many errors, the ECU sees may cause some very bad effects.
Limphome. or the ECU goes NUTS, (we call it getting lost, like humans do blind folded and for the same exact reason. )

I have offical books on this car, for may years, and many tell you this. (off my failsafe page, aka limphome or limp in)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/LimpHome/failsafe.html

some years do this and others do not. suzuki is not clear on this ,and is PROGRAMMING. (I know way, its because of the 56 markets, make this a HARD TOPIC)

if the ECU goes to limphome all early cars go to rich, and burn lots of fuel at about 15MPG.
burns about 2 times the normal fuel .
this is the best clue.

if yours is not doing that fuel waste, then all is ok. just the transmission problem matters. Do the spark plugs burn clean and white/light gray?/cream? or black.


the IAT, sensor on the 8v is critical (to compute the air mass sucked in to the engine, for EFI)
the 16v is its NOT. in fact is missing on 92/93 Fed cars but present on Calif. cars, and 92 is the first year of 16v, so one can say all early fed cars have on IAT.

[fixkick]

the TPS on the 16v is not easy to set.
I remove the Throttle body, to do that, but can be done with you laying on top engine.
and the whole throttle cable mount removed. and then feeler gauge set.

one must get to here.

http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/Tb-95-a.jpg

see?

do not ever touch that screw.
only the 3 TPS side screws are set loose and TPS turned to get 300 ohms or tad less.
.016 . 16 thousands feeler, is the calibration size.

http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/TPS...html#MYWAY

this sets calibration, but if the TCM error is due to bad TPS, that is a whole other mater, a new TPS then calibrate.


the meter goes to pin 1 and 2. as seen there. bottom 2 pins.

before starting make sure the yellow brass thorttle valve plate is 100% closed, 99.9, below .001" is correct, NO GUNK here. no throttle cables set tight, they too are calibrated. to a slack spec.


i do the TPS this way, in a warm room.
TV valve not molested by the bad guy, if yes, set it to .0005" one half a thousands of an inch.
then test the TPS,
then calibrated it on the bench.
like you see me doing here, see meter," see the factory service manual there.
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ration.jpg