coolant flow to ISC and IAC

[kthnos]

hi,

98 vitara jlx 5d here. lots and lots of problems but i have managed to repair most. i am happy the way it runs now (both performance and mileage).

now here is the problem:
i flushed the radiator,changed the coolant,etc,etc and since then (2 days) it looks like the ISC and IAC don`t get hot. everything else is fine (both engine and heater temps). i tried to release any air pockets (rad cap off, car inclined to about 20degrees), but to no avail. what can this be? some passage blocked? or definately an air pocket? should i try to pinch the bypass line (on the water pump) to force the coolant to flow through the IAC/ISC line (and thus release any air pocket there)?

thanks,
Kostis[/u]

[fixkick]

welcome.
those 2 are hosed in series, if one of the 6 ends are clogged, the path blocks the 1998 here, has no top huge main air pipe induction heater, its deleted here in 1998
so only ISC and IAC are in series. and only 2 hoses not 3 hoses. like 97 and older.
back flush all hoses here, and both devices, and water will flow.

is thermostat bleed hole up hill? it must be, so you can fill at RAD neck slowly. and get a full fill cold, run engine with rad cap off
and keep adding is it needs it , at one point the water begins to expand and overflow the rad cap. now kill engine and cap off
then start engine let it get warm idling, let cool and check rad fill at rad cap, and more 50% AF now. (keep side tank 1/2 full at all times or per guide)

the induction hose is missing on 1998 here.
so the ISC hose is sucked at the rear of the pump, that nipple must flow water. there on that funny #5 manifold
the other hidden nipple is below the thermostat goes to IAC, this is hot pressureized water.

[kthnos]

thanks for the reply.
yes, i saw that scheme on your site. extremely helpfull info there btw. have used that info for lots of repairs to my vitara.

yes, the stat bleed hole is to the front.

i tried again to eliminate the air pockets (got the car inclined, took the cap off and let it idle until hot and then some). had some bubbles at the rad neck, added some coolant again.
looks like the IAC is getting hot now, but still the ISC refuses to warm-up at the same temp. what gives?

---

i must add that this issue arose only when i flushed the system and replaced the coolant. previously the IAC and ISC were warming up properly and promptly. so it looks like a stubborn air pocket, but i am concerned if i blocked anything by flushing with the radiator flush chemical.

[fixkick]

the isc water only heats the TB, throttle body (not too important until its real cold)
the IAC must get fully hot and above 150f, or the valve sticks open and hot idle will scream.

getting all air out may take 2 heat cycles.

good luck to you !

[kthnos]

getting all air out may take 2 heat cycles.

thanks, thats important info. so i will retry a couple of times and see how it goes.

yeah, i had the fast hot idle issue those two days. that is actually exactly what led me to check the IAC and ISC temps /coolant flow.

thanks again.


oh, and btw, my EGR (cleaned as per your instructions) was ~18 years old. so i bought a new one for like 70$ shipped. here is the deal:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281867446455?_tr...EBIDX%3AIT

i know its not genuine stuff, but i would like to know your thoughts on these.
i got it installed last night, everything good so far. (old EGR didn`t always close properly -despite of the thorough cleaning. perhaps bad spring i guess).

[kthnos]

fixkick are you here?

i need your input to the felpro EGR valve i got.
if possible, i also would like to know what else do i need to check to make sure my EGR functions properly. actually where exactly do the exhaust fumes return to the EGR? i mean the passage starts from the exhaust manifold/header or where?

[fixkick]

the link is to the newer vitara, with motor driven EGR.
right>? that is the ebay photo.

98 vitara jlx 4door (call 5 there) we consider the rear a cargo hatch, (not for people, LOL)

some G16s (not here) got this electric EGR in many other countries early (here only on 1996 up with J18 engine and never G16s until 1999)
but is used on many suzuki engines for sure.

The ECU will tell you when it fails in most cases, code 51 or P0400s
in some countries, the EGR is not even monitored !, even when present.
an odd thing that.
so in that case only pinging is the symptom.
or failing smog NOX readings at the smog test station.

the egr lowers NOX pollution and Zone levels. Nasty stuff. that.
the EGR uses pure exhaust flows to leak some of this in to the induction plenum.
I cant answer you question lacking your VIN or chassis tag data. the firewall next to battery has this tag, and the market code for your country
and this code tells your manifold types, (both in take and exhaust)
this flow of EGR is controls by ECU modulation of this valve only moving, car, down the road based on calculated engine load.



as you can see there are 2 ports there, one is vacuum port other is the BARK port,
take of the valve.
person 2 cranks. (engine may not start, with this like that) tell him/her, crank it for 1 second, and key off. repeat as needed.
and you feel the 2 holes.
one sucks cracked Hard.
other blows hard exhaust.
if either are dead its blocked.
do 1second cranks for each. dont let it start. or it will run badly, with huge induction leak and run real lean. if at all.
or find the suck hole first, and put a cork there,
and start engine, the exh, hole will bark like crazy.

the fsm shows, a test, the FSM clearly states this, . (lacking factory scan tool, the books says)
remove valve.
leave wires connected
look in the 2 ports and see actual valve.guts.
person 2 keys on (no start) like 3 times.
see the valve cycle INSIDE, this is the ECU doing a key reset of the valve.


ours, J18
http://www.fixkick.com/EGR-Gen4.html

your check engine light on?

[kthnos]

yes, its the same as the picture on ebay. and its exactly the same as the old EGR i pulled off. my CEL is functional (on at ignition) and always off when engine starts. i am just worried if exhaust gases really reach the EGR on the first place. i had noticed some pinging but it was corrected when i adjusted the dizzy (PO had set the timing to 12 degrees static!). i had adjusted it to 8 degrees and runs much better with no (audible) pinging. cam bolt seems ok (no play/cog to the cam noticed).

[fixkick]

ok no 51/400 codes, but some cars (not here) you have to scan it, or do the flash codes from ECU
OBD1, cars flash codes, lacking a tech 1/2 scan tool. (so use the paper clip jumper for flash codes.)
OBD2 cars , any scan tool tells you , that there are NO DTCs set. many cars outside USA< the CEL does no glow or all failures, same in Canada.
is the 16pin DLC connector above right knee there? if yes, OBD2 ,scans work there.

the G16 has no knock sensor, so setting timing advanced wrong, it will ping.
so will a dead EGR. with low octane fuel.

to check flows, do as my above post shows.
the shop with a real scan tool , can exercise this sensor. manually. and watch results. opening it at idle stalls engine.
we cant do that, its a stepper motor. (no easy checks)

[kthnos]

what i am asking in particular regards the exhaust passage from the manifold/header to the EGR. can this get clogged?