Cold idle when hot?

[Deadduck]

Another question I am having some oil pressure problems eg cold start or any start oil pressure is 4-10 psi till I rev up then might go to 30-40 psi then will drop back down really low sometimes so low oil light will come on. under load up a hill it was at about 50 then has bits where it will suddenly drop down to 20 then back up for about a second engine has had full rebuild oversize pistons ect oil pump was checked was good also all bearing clearances all perfect thinking air getting into where pickup goes to block or something like that all pressure reg was checked as well what can I do?

[fixkick]

what was cold rpm at 4psi or when the idiot lamp glows,(some glow at 3psi, as low as....)
RPM matters, in all cases,

what is outdoor air temp
what is the oil in there, sump , 0w? what?

my stock G16, with no spark plugs removed, is 55psi oil pressure cold cranked,with 10w30 oil, 75F ambient temp, sea-level.
the oil pressure by pass sparing is set to 55psi, that is what it is.
but when engine is hot and oil is hot, the pressure at the sum off bearing leaks, crank, rod, and cam. total
so is less. most run 20 psi at idle if USING THE Correct oil.
the cam should not effect this pressure as the head bottom front corner has a .050" orifice device, for the gallery to the cam, so can't drop pressure. with say a blown cam.
its not missing is it? (it screws in with an ALLEN wrench (tiny)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...284%29.jpg

see here. on rebuilt day
see my gauge, (accurate not some china, import for $3)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_53.html

just the starter motor alone hits 55psi bam, (all bearings in engine were checked 2 ways, by me, bore gauges, and mikes, and last as an audit check only Plasti-gage.)
has new crank, ground fresh. all journals.
is your crank fresh or just recycled(untouched journals.).

name all new parts in block, and i tell you what they did.
new bearings shells needs a reground crank, (ask why)


yes, the pump can suck air if that bottom pickup seal not fresh and sealed.

if your cranking only (no spark no fuel fuel prump relay pulled best is spark plugs out)
is not 55psi with 10w-30 id never run it. ever.
its the first thing I do, even with engine on a pallet..

Another question I am having some oil pressure problems eg cold start or any start oil pressure is 4-10 psi till I rev up then might go to 30-40 psi then will drop back down really low sometimes so low oil light will come on. under load up a hill it was at about 50 then has bits where it will suddenly drop down to 20 then back up for about a second engine has had full rebuild oversize pistons ect oil pump was checked was good also all bearing clearances all perfect thinking air getting into where pickup goes to block or something like that all pressure reg was checked as well what can I do?

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keep in mind, ive no idea at all history of engine.

[Deadduck]

Cold RPM 1400-1500rpm
Outdoor airtemp between 20-27°c
Oil is penrite running in oil 15w40
Old block had a crack through bearing journal so block rooted new block same crank all measured all gaps within 1 thou
No seal on bottom of pick up? Just a press fit into block can I seal at all I now have to drop diff and sump again to try and. Fix

[fixkick]

Cold RPM 1400-1500rpm (good, normal, all IAC actions that) higher in Alaska,
hot RPM is 750-850 RPM 800 is ECU controlled, via servo software loops.
Outdoor airtemp between 20-27°c
Oil is penrite running in oil 15w40 (good oil no problems there)
Old block had a crack through bearing journal (mine too)so block rooted new block same crank all measured all gaps within 1 thou (using plasti gauge?)?
ok new block but you are running who's bearing shells, the old crank and matching original same shells.

No seal on bottom of pick up? Just a press fit into block can I seal at all I now have to drop diff and sump again to try and. Fix

not true at all,sorry
see this page 10
see seal #7. here. its not optional at all, i can imagine a more critical seal, sucking air.. will blow up a good engine. fast.

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/96-98%2016...motor1.pdf

i have all suzuki drawings, here.

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best on engine rebuilds
is ask for engine parts drawings, like above, i put the up 10 years ago.
also no missing ferrel rings #11 page 8, head to block drawing. there are 2 ferrals. in the corners, we have huge posts with parts missing and effects, not one is extra..
or the timing belt drifts endlessly.
and
see critical dimensions here.

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...m-end.html

0.001" clearances is perfect. non better.
per spec, and truth
with that clearance and no excessive rod side play say .002", oil pressure will be tops

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see page 21 for oil regulator

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/96-98%2016...motor1.pdf

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my 16v photos are ok, only head and pistons, and ECU changed(wires). for 16v .

[Deadduck]

I cannot thank you enough I dropped the diff and sump today and put that seal in and oil pressure straight up to 70 psi cold you have just saved my engine from killing itself Thank you.
used caps and everything that came with new block on old crank all measured with plasti gauge everything balanced ect was all done properly i got given block assembled i put rest on.

[fixkick]

I cannot thank you enough I dropped the diff and sump today and put that seal in and oil pressure straight up to 70 psi cold you have just saved my engine from killing itself Thank you.
used caps and everything that came with new block on old crank all measured with plasti gauge everything balanced ect was all done properly i got given block assembled i put rest on.

great !!!~

im like a clock with no battery, hands frozen and reads the correct time , 2 times a day.

LOL

70 is too high the pressure spring piston is jammed. (or hacked, etc) spec is 55, and all mine were but mine were stock.
sorry, for bad news but
the pump is super strong and no bearing leaks, excessive.

yes, seen others mix color coded bearings on crank an fail. stock bearings.
all bearings (orig) are married to there own journals, same with pistons. (suz. grades)

http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_17.html

see to left side here, is reg.

is this suz pump or china clone, the latter might have huge spring inside. more heavy.
the acid test.
is spark outs, cranked, does 55psi, the spring piston there, does that and proves the parts are stock

no idea at all with 70 will do to engine.
1: burn oil, it might, due to more big rod end , more oil splash hitting under piston and oil control ring, over powering this ring?
2: blow up a cheap oil filter tops my list. upgrade it ,,, to Wik or, PureOne .
3: wont hurt bearings, for sure.
4: tad more cam oiling but of valve seals good, no problem.

[Deadduck]

Stock the pressure was 70 psi it has always been like that before I've even touched it. Original Engine had done 275000 kms no problems with oil filters I use ryco filters burns no oil all aftermarket bearings now bought it how it is it could of been changed but everything else in engine was stock all the pressure reg and pump was all checked and turned out all ok

[fixkick]

the pressure reg in the pump opens wide at 55, on the button.
the car is old, many cars, this old and owners, have never seen a real stock pump or one that works right. a fact.
old pumps this pressure relief is packed in crap inside and stuck closed,(luck of draw)
then others (vast) buy clone pumps, many made in china, and some so thick the front cog hits. or so poorly cloned, the cloner, forgets, gee the regulator is documented.
and forgets to clone it, right, or decides to call it a Racing pump. and just skip all this engineering stuff... (cloners are like that)

or
your gauge is no good,
here is a cheap gauge. (good enough for most, even me,,, but not as an engine building tool. after all i want to know if the regulator works, on new engines
some are 20% off. (spec,. so 70 is really 55)

http://www.harborfreight.com/electronic-...41017.html


now a good gauges.(lots) Best shop guage, one for engine for doing transmission line pressure,tests (accurately)
http://www.sears.com/kd-tools-engine-aut...ockType=G2
or OTC

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-5610-Tra...B000R5G0DO


im not saying those problems will happen im quoting the physics,
per automotive racing engines, builders...

that regulator works just like and fuel pressure regulator, (sans Vacuum)
im always curious if it works on day1, starts.

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on a true stock engine
i crank it , spark plugs out. dead cold, never ran before.
it goes to 55psi, as that spring valve opens... im a show me guy,,,,, I want the spring to move and open that valve, on any new engine...





if it never goes over 70psi , at any rpm, id bet the gauge, is just a toy guage , as most are. and is really 57psi,,,,,

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if the valve fails to work , right, my head goes
gee, if its not working right now, what if the clone pump, valve sticks open ,? (probably the most important part of the engine, IMO)
things that act up, usually are a sign of future failures...

[fixkick]

issue 2:?
"30min of driving I stopped to change into 4wheel drive and the idle was at a constant 1500rpm"
when it does that? hot 1500 trick !
tests 1 and 2.
open hood,
1: push throttle at TB hard against stops, (0 throttle)
cure it? y/n
no: then
2: pinch ISC air hose. (other 2 are water) this is electric ISC.
1500 rpm still?
1000 rpm.?
400 (normal) or stalls.?
what RPM, ? now?

[Deadduck]

My idle is fine now done plenty of driving in it all tb is clean I had pulled the lot apart and cleaned it when I had it apart I think maybe something just got stuck and it has now freed itself after a couple of cycles.