What prevents a Sidekick from our years(or any car) to reach 180F?

[zukitrek]

Hi Fix. This is just a question out of curiosity. Whenever your tell people when asking for your help in engine/idling problems you mention almost always that ECT must 180F. Id imagine if temp does not reach that number then some sort of situation in that matter may follow. What could prevent a car reaching that temp and why if not?

Regards!!

[fixkick]

great question
the ECT is just the engine coolant temp sensor the ECU uses it to stage up from cold running, warm then hot, its a key sensor.
the stock EPA thermostat is rated at 180F, so that is the correct temperature hot, it regulates at the stamped on its side, temperature but can be 192, or 195f.

coolant temps can be wrong, for many reasons, (for sure in alaska. or when real cold out)
thermostat bad , missing, upside-down , bleed hole not up hill trapping air under it,, wrong thermstat (marked say 160f) , or the rubber ring missing allowing it to float about.
or clutch fan seized.

this is covered here,

http://www.fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/Fr...r-cab.html


from the point of view of heater core weak.

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the 1.8l has more bad tricks.

[zukitrek]

Ok. Then if all the reasons you mention for failing to reach that temp (thermostat bad , missing, upside-down , bleed hole not up hill trapping air under it,, wrong thermstat (marked say 160f) , or the rubber ring missing allowing it to float about, or clutch fan seized.) are not present then it should never fail obtaining that temp and/or above? Of cours a ten gun would validate that? Are they the real deal, I mean accurate or very close to being accurate?

BTW I saw the fan clutch and by the looks of it I said, how in the hell this works? Is only moved by the belt.

Thanks!!

[fixkick]

this is the same on all cars. water cooled.
if in Alaska (your not but to be complete)
1: its too cold, if -40F block 1/2 the radiator with cardboard. if you dont the thermostat goes nuts. (my buddy JOHN (ase mastermech) even sprays the engine block with foam, and has block heater. and in some cases (gov veh, they NEVER SHUT THEM OFF)
2: bad thermostat.
3: installed wrong, above. upside down, or bleed hole, not forward and up (hill)
4: same again, the thermostat is missing the rubber ring to match the 4mm lip., as seen on my FRIGID pages.
5: J18 engine (yours is G16) if the small hose to stat housing, and out to the heater core is blocked the thermostat goes nuts .
6: CLutch fan stuck on full time (any fan, mech or electric, as the case may be)
7: wrong thermostat, for not this car or a 160F bought (takes hard work to find one,,,)
8: missing thermostat.
9: driving too fast in Alaska , see #1
10: dash gauge lies. or water level low, and now the dash sensor or ECT, lies. due to fact that they can not measure air temps. caused by a huge air pocket in the stat housing. use and IR pyro gun, and burp the cooling system. of all air, repeat that 3 times, until all AIR is out of system.

[zukitrek]

About 3 years ago I took the car to a shop (I did not know as much as now) for a coolant leak and they determined that I had a leak in the hose into heater core so he by passed it to the outlet hose. Considering PR temps will this affect (if all else is ok) engine from reaching 180F? or it does not matter?

[fixkick]

the G16, needs no heater core. to run.

but keep in mind you replaced the core with hose loop so it sill flows water OK, and there fore not possible to cause issues.

[zukitrek]

Good day.
Got it. My little truck does not overheat, but I want to be sure she is getting up to 180f. I want to be sure all is OK as I feel she consumes more fuel than what is supposed to. But for that I have to verify all is within spec. Fuel (got my doubts, ECT, no air leaks, idle), Maybe Santa will give me an early present with an IR gun to start things up.

Cheers!!

[fixkick]

well there are a few ways to measure temperatures
1: believe the toy dash gauge, (nah) its ok , to use it to say ,OMG somethings wrong, and that is it, NOTE IT HAS NO NUMBERS ON THE DIAL, so..... its a TOY.
2: use a IR pyro gun, for $15
3: use the therocouple probe wire with your DMM.
4: ECT unplugged hot reads 300 ohms (works perfectly if you trust it)
there are other ways all dangerous. ill not say. (id did them in the dark ages of car repair, 1960s)

[zukitrek]

Regarding T-stats, I already checked your hard to find parts and found the ACdelco and B/A stats on Rockauto. My question will this stat also work?

Here a pic:

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/e...iew&id=196

Is this is the one Stant stopped making? Amazon shows it as available.

[fixkick]

the G16b engine, all use same stat, if made in Cami or japan (engine) but will not fit Spain made, Santana G16 engines.
so if car is USA car (tags tell you on car what it is and where its made as does the VIN)
then the e-catalog works.
for say , Stant company, (nice quality they are)(
13958 is 180F (EPA mandated)
the trick to find if fits or not is use the p/n search on stan ecatalog
see this. 13959.
http://www.stant.com/index.php/english/parts-locator/



http://ww2.stant.com/modules/partLocator...m?id=13959

the key there is fits 96 and all 96 are G16b and all use a rubber ring, if yours is not the 4mm deep well then the same stat fits. but you use paper gasket.

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for some reason? the GEO is fully listed,( and error on stants part, 100% sure)

IIRC, this is the exact STAT i ran for years.

saves fuel, warms faster, engine lasts longer.
and cools better (if using 50% antifreeze at all times)
cools better in hot climates. too. (odd and counter logical but true,,,,Carnot's laws...)
i think you will like it... if rad is good and all tube in RAD or free and clear of clogs.

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check out the parts interchange tabs there. Super useful