16v runs, then it don't !

[ecoast]

95, obd1 installed in rear engine tube buggy...
no vss
no cel wired (currently)

16v>3sp>doubler>tcase
e2000 knock off pump inline

motor was sat for 4-5 years; was a good j/y pull.


....trying to get this buggy going; started right up, and was running fine in shop every time I started it for a week (no load)

went to get it out, and bog, stall, wet black plugs.

And now no start...???


rechecked valve timing, distributor timing, good keyway, has spark, getting fuel.
assume lash is ok as it was running good.

egr clean, not stuck open, modulator good too...

Thinking ecm; have one coming to test...swapped MAF 'causeI had a spare...

also thinking pump is 'overpowering' regulator; was running rich, and wet black plugs....will check psi tonight--is this possible?

what all else can I check while waiting for ECU?


VERY frustrating; was building this for months, and went to drive out of shop and fell flat....




ASIDE- hope retirement's been good to you Jerry; been a few years since I've had to bug you!

[fixkick]

hello and its great to be bugged.!!

yes, may be the pump is overpowering the FPR, and most FPR are dead, this old or near to it.
i'd connect the CEL lamp up. to see if its talking?
see if it flashes 12s, sure it will flash VSS dead, when drove.
but vSS dont kill starts or idling... ever. as im sure you know.

sounds like limphome mode, to me, (engine good ,timed right) spark good. fuel good.
1: fuel pressure too high.
2: VSS can put some ECU in limphome but that can happen after ECU reset and a start and idle.. not ever.
3: ecu issues...
4: ECT bad or disconnecte
5: fresh gas?

is the stock filter there with test port.
or use the rail fitting.
see 2267 here
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/Schrader-vales.html

cheers !
love your buggy....

[fixkick]

id lid off the ECu and look for the green acid drip death deal.
and for sure change the corner huge cap out, now. (it its black yes, if says rubicon on side, for sure)
if blue, or yellow cap, its probably ok.

seen here (dah green death or split or rupture or dies out inside cap)

http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/hell/html/image_6.html


good high temp caps.
http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components...on&FS=True

[ecoast]

caps..?
perhaps..!



           

[ecoast]

Cleaned plugs, it started and limped...so not ecu

I put a gauge on output of pump; same HF kit you pictured.

Gauge went well past 100, all the way around to zero pin...130-150psi !?!
Swapped regulator; no difference


as I am using a fuel cell, with the cap off i do not see fuel pumping back from return; should I?

[fixkick]

do not look at the conformal coatings there, its spray on water proofing.
those blue caps are tanalums , they dont fail.
just the black cans, that look like mini garbage cans, (pure cylinders)
OK you found it.

the pump can only do 60psi on stock car.
the pump in your car is too powerful for sure.
the FPR is scaled for the stock 60psi max pump.
the FPR will never handle your killer pump..
the return line dry means the PFR is stuck closed and bad. but is vacuum operated to hold pressure newer 30 psi and rises 6 psi at wide open throttle.
your ECU is tuned to assume this ACTION.

for sure the FPR is bad.

[ecoast]

thanks; I will swap pump.

did the high pressure kill the FPR, or is it possible that one or the other I have *may* work when I put a pump in with correct psi?

[fixkick]

a new FPR will stick wide open due to crazy pump flows and pressures.
and the return line will be at 100% all the time. out of controls
why not put a 60psi line regulator in front of the fuel rail.
so the FPR can do its job.
the FPR adjusts the fuel pressure so the injector injects the correct fuel at idle and wot.
at zero vacuum (WOT) (1 atmosphere) the plenum pressure is max, the FPR raises fuel pressure to compensate for that WOT condition.
this makes the ECU job of calculating fuel rates 10s more easy.
(this magic holds injector differential pressures constant) (air side to fuel side) for super easy fuel calc's.

---

now begs the question?
was the ECU tuned with a dead FPR or not?
oops.
some folks just run a constant fuel pressure and do complex ECU tuning. (can be real hard work)
others put fuel pressure sensor on the rail and use that for all fuel injection rates. (like new cars have , no return line)
lots of ways to run a fuel system....

[ecoast]

why not put a 60psi line regulator in front of the fuel rail.
so the FPR can do its job.

where would I get something like that?
I know I can get adjustable fpr...


any way to bench test fpr?




no ecu tuning done or will be done

[fixkick]

hard questions all.
first off ALL FPR , stock have no factory published spec. so you'd have to reverse engineer that. (flow ratings are not PUBLIC)
and the stock FPR is designed to work with 60 psi max. (called shut rating or dead headed)
all race shops sell this stuff, summitracing dot com. and JEGS (ignore carb types)
lots:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-...4294948048

bench testing, ok.
now that is harder, "how would i ever make up that custom, suzuki rail fitting. ? "
the FSM covers the on car tests,
as does my page,
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/FPress-reg1.html

your first test fails, hard. total failure.
and is because the pump is too powerful.... the FPR can not flow fuel that fast or at that volume ever. it was never intended to do that, ever.
so id put in the 60psi reg near say the tank, (safest spot away from spark and collision damage)

controlling the rear stream back max pressure, means you control max flow. at all times. (when overloaded)

once the line pressure is limited to say 55psi (best)
then you use a simple hand vacuum tool pump on the vacuum nipple.
we key on 3 times. (primes pump)
then see pressure on the rail gauge.

i remove the vacuum nipple, it must not leak gas or the FPR is DEAD stone useless.
the
my hand tool test it at 3 vacuum points.
no vacuum what is fuel pressure.
next at 20" HG vacuum what is pressure.
last at 25 inches. HG. what is fuel pressure.

that is the test in the FSM too, the 96 book is free and online, click books on my main screen.

i made graph just for the FPR, (only one there is) and is all you need to test any suzuki g16b FPR.
see key on pressure on the left side?
now look to the right side. max vacuum there,.. you pump the handtool and get the pressures seen here.



the key on pressure sets the base lines for all the others. so adjust your expectations , from the base pressure
mine was 36psi, but im at 500 ft altitude.
what you do is see that what ever keyon was (PSI). the fuel pressure drops by 6 PSI to idle vacuum . see?
cheers.