Tracker wont start

[fixkick]

"Why point the rotor to 4 ?" that is cam setting, spark is #1 firing. but spark can be timed using #4 too. (same tdc mark) but timing light is on #4 wire.
the cam cog marks are at 12pm (both) and that is #4 . firing. Cam shaft rules, i cant change the profile of this cam. well not easy....

if below 1000 feet?
you need 150psi (min cold, hot is always more, 180 typ.) compression, if not?, something is very wrong.
i'd rent a gauge or barrow one from a friend.
or check your lawn mower, mine reads 100psi. typical.
if reads 50, oops. gauge is funky.
OR connect the gauge to shop air, and see 150 to 175 psi. matching your gauge the air tank gauge for free?

the bench mark is important, so we can then work EFI issues.

is your cat bad and melted.? (plugged up) drop the CAT (loosen flange 8mm gap ? rack it down.. so engine can breath) and see if compression returns.
we've seen cats so bad compression is like 50.PSI.. depends on the amount of the melt...

a cat can clog and the cranking vacuum is 0 inches HG (0 bar)

[robbybobby]

Well, tried it with new compression tester...
Same readings of 60 psi on #1 and 120 psi on #2-4...

Put the leak-down tester on each cylinder at TDC.
#1- could hear air rushing out of the exhaust at a fast rate!
#2- could hear air coming out at #4 at a slow pace, nothing like cylinder 1.
I stopped there because I figured that's as far as I need to go.

Is my next step to pull the head to inspect valves and cylinders? Assuming I have a blown head gasket?

[fixkick]

#1 is very sick, hard fail.

sounds to me, lash wrong, or cam timed wrong. ?
if valves are loose at TDC on each cylinder (firing point), then its not lash but cam timing..
the crank turns 180degrees to fire each cylinder 1,3,4,2, as you walk thru each, wiggle the 2 rockers, they loose , good then 180 more , and check #3 , the 180 CW and 4, and last #2.
the valves are not bent, this engine is free running.
lets fix #1 first. its very bad.
if the lash is good on it,

you could use a leak down gauge if you have shop air, lock crank at #1 firing check leak rate , and lash loose.
if its bad way over 15% (seems it will) just listen to both ports, the one leaking is a bad valve.
and with rubber tube to ear listen at gasket edge, #1 left and right side. hissssss at head gasket? or just intake or exh port.

what is odd, is why 3 cylinders match, how can that be, ? so close too. late cam timing, ? (keys sheared)
is head torque still at spec?
odd yet, if head is tight, why would there be a bad valve on all 4 cylinders.... that is why I pick cam timing, but, who knows?, fate can be cruel.
might just be a warped head.

---

#4 cam timed.
i can see your cam marks are correct, and the crank marks are perfect. dead on perfect. (post 1 photos , perfect, and spark dont make compression good.so..
there is no error there,
only keys, are in question as those make the marks all fibbers.
recap:
if keys are good.
and lash is good.
head is bad.
are cam bearing ok? (have to be real loose to wreck lash on the fly)
no flat cam lobes (warn down)

[robbybobby]

Keys checked, still perfect.

Went through cycle 1,3,4,2 checking TDC and valve lash yesterday, all seems timed right...

Cam lash checked, all still good.

Cam lobes appear fine from what I can see and cam is not loose.

Put the leak-down tester on cylinder 1, lots of air coming out exhaust.
Put the leak-down tester on cylinder 2, air moving across cylinders it sounded like.

I feel like it's head gasket since all 4 cylinders went at the same time. Just going to pull the head and look at valves, etc

Main question: how the heck do you get the O2 sensor out??? Sucker is rusted(welded) in there!!!

[fixkick]

burned valves or valve guide/stems sticking. (or 2 fails in head/gasket or warp'age of head)
sorry its bad head.
i was hoping for sheared cam key. easy fix.

[robbybobby]

How do I get a seized O2 sensor out?

It's been soaking in PB Blaster overnight...

[fixkick]

yes, they are no fun, when old.

heat it up and try. glove on hands , incase you slip. (leather gloves)

jog it back and forth.

use a real 02 socket drive. for max purchase and force. hex deep wall or hex crow foots.

id wreck the 02 ,before the manifold. but doorman make a cheap 8v manifold. $79 . in like the 16v $300+
one other trick
is hit it with a torch, turn it off and PB it, and let the cooling action, suck in the PB.
as it cools the threads get a micro vacuum there... sucking it in. sometimes.... if lucky.
lots of patience... you will win !

---

ive even cut the o2 flush at top of hex.
then drilled the guts out until the thread shell is like 1/16" thick or 1/8" to less.
then its very weak thread shell.
then as i unbolt it ,the threads collapse, and it comes out and i use a thread chaser to clean man. treads.
last resort... "last chance garage" lol.

[robbybobby]

I found several cracks in the exhaust manifold, so I am just going to buy a new one anyhow off rockauto.

Is that the best place to buy a new O2 sensor too?

Do they sell a whole set of valves (intake and exhaust) together?

[fixkick]

i buy bosch o2 sensors. and do google searches by Bosch pn. to find dirt cheap ones
do you want PNP or hand wired? (its only a matter of convience and price)
the doorman exh man is great. sold at rock or ebay. there is only one non suzuki make for oe fit cast iron exh man.

i not sure on valves; but there are lots of sellers.' even suzuki i have pn of all , if need be.

here is my 02 page (buy)
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/OxyGen_se...#oxy-parts
on the cheap the Bosch is best.


15726-3 (hand wired)
15701-3 (PNP) the 3 i added, its not real means 3wire. in green number.

Google that like this.
as low as $30
https://www.google.com/webhp?gws_rd=ssl#...6&tbm=shop

and here
as low as $22 bucks,
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40...6&_sacat=0

Bosch invented it (first maj. producers that last...)
and are rock hard, quality.

when you get it all sealed up , it will run spiffy!

[robbybobby]

Well, just to update, I got the ol tracker all fixed and running like a champ!

When I pulled the head, I found 2 burnt valves. The exhaust valve on #1 was pretty bad which is where my bad compression was being caused on that cylinder. So, I rebuilt the head. All new valves, seals, gaskets, etc...

Got it all put back together, timing set, and she cranked right up! Runs better and more power than it ever had before so I am very happy!!!

Thanks for all the help!

However, now that I have it running good, I want to work on the brakes. I replaced all the brake pads last year, but ever since I got it, I have to pump the pedal 3-4 times before it gains pressure. Once it gains pressure, it applies braking to all for brakes smoothly. So it seems to be a pressure issue... I also bled the lines like 5 times to no avail (no air in lines). Would it be the master cylinder or the brake booster?