Next glitch on my 89

[hoffy30]

Hi all. After all the help getting my starting problem figured out have a new issue. During the 89 to 93 swapout I put a new clutch in while everything was out . Now having issues with the trans not going in to 1st or 2nd. The whole shift assembly feels sloppy but goes in to 3,4,5 and reverse fine. Any ideas on what are common wear points ? The ball and tang on the shifter don't look worn and the slots for the ears also look alright. Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks

[fixkick]

see my tranny page.
you need $5 plastics, bits, suz sell em, get extras, incase they fold up like we paper bag,

http://www.fixkick.com/buy-parts.html#5sp-shift

[hoffy30]

see my tranny page.
you need $5 plastics, bits, suz sell em, get extras, incase they fold up like we paper bag,

http://www.fixkick.com/buy-parts.html#5sp-shift

Thanks again for the help. Parts are on the way, will update when I get them.

[hoffy30]

Is it possible to change out these plastics from the top while in vehicle ?

[fixkick]

sure, 100% so.


1: remove console. (some have these hard to get rivets down low that I had to remove seat to get to them. other cars, they are missing , long ago)
2: remove boot. id 7 screws.
then remove clamp #5 holding boot to collar.
3: see to 10mm side bolts #36 , these are index bolts that hold the snap locking collar.
4: remove both bolts , and stick shift rod files off. the whole deal.

or FSM
chapter 7b
page 16 , remove.....
http://www.acksfaq.com/96-FSM-v1-7B-pdf.htm

it has you man handle the twist lock ring (collar). , i find this hard to do. so just remove the 2 screws, and it flies off.
to put it back, you can man handle the twist lock on 1/4 turn (#36 screws back in), or push it down and put back the 2 screws locking the ring that way.
the spring in the shifter end, has strong pressure, that locks said ring. sounds harder than is,

[hoffy30]

Thanks for everything. Will let you know how it goes.

[fixkick]

happy wrenching,
you will be happy with fresh tight shifter gate. the only hard part is some plastic console rivets can be a pain. (getting to, and out)

[hoffy30]

Put new plastics in today with high hopes. Still not able to shift in to 1st or 2nd. Other gears go in freely and feel normal. Trans was shifting normally prior to swap out and new clutch. Looking at the top of the case there is a 22mm bolt on each side of the case. Pulledc the left one and had 2 springs, an inner and an outer. Not able to break the R side loose as it is tight from underneath. It feels like there is a restriction in the lateral movement needed to move the ball socket to the right which is the direction it moves when going to 1st or second. Looked at the schematics on the trans page here and am confused. It shows a single spring on the left and a double/inner & outer on the right. I definitely have a double on the L and not sure on the right until I can get the bolt cap off. Any ideas whats going on ? It just feels to me like something is either hitting or not releasing far enough in the ball socket area. Thanks for any help.

[fixkick]

ok, lets back up.
what does reverse do, Reverse is the canary gear, its a non synchro , square cut gear. and will grind at the drop of a hat if the clutch fails.
please state what " no able to shift" means.

grinds, or what.
can you shift in to all gears, engine not running?

you also missed, my tests. that must be done to prove what part is failing.

1: the one inch rule on the clutch bell lever, does it move 1inch past the zero play point? if not the cable is bad, or maladjusted.
if the clutch lever moves as it should then the problem is tranny / clutch.
to test that is pretty simple, pull the top of the shifter houseing and do this.

shift by wrench.
if this fails. the clutch is bad, if it shifts, ok , not running engine, then binds up,(near impossible to engage , unless you force it , by hand and it grinds, bad clutch.
if how ever it shifts perfect by wrench , then the shifter extension housing is bad.
i know this seems hard, but is less that 10 hrs labor R&R tranny




i'd not take the shift guide plugs out. not me, why? why risk dropping balls and tiny parts.?
because id test them , using the wrench above.

what are the tests,? , simple, the shift guides have a locking rule set.
1: all gears can be shifted 1 by one. at a time, 1,2,3,4,5,R , N
2: no 2 gears can be shifted at same time (lockout) (2 gears at same time driving, is a man killer)
easy , huh, if it passes that test. then the real lock pins are AOK. engine off.

---

one step at a time.

Still not able to shift in to 1st or 2nd.

motor running or not/?
that is the 1st step.
if it can not be done motor off, the shifter is bad. (from hand knob to box forks) end to end. my photo above solves that riddle fast.

if it can not be shifted parked, engine off, (put transfer case in Neutral to release any prop shaft tension).
now it must shift in to 1 or 2, MUST.
if not tranny is sick.

can you shift in to 1st with the xfr case in neutral (no load) and engine running? Ebrake set hard, in all cases above.

no problems in reverse, then the clutch is ok.

[hoffy30]

It won't shift in to 1st or second whether running or not. Other gears go in fine running or not, no grinding when running, clutch feels normal. One problem I have is the swap from 89 to 93 body was manual to automatic. Top access panel different on auto, didn't think it would be a problem but unable to get the top hatch off from above. Really don't want to drop tranny or pull engine until everything else is ruled out. Trans was fine prior to swap so just don't think the tranny is now sick but possible. It still feels to me like side to side detents ? are not allowing enough movement to get to the 1st & second shift rail/fork. Will play more today and check back. Thanks