Greetings..and..Transmission

[GeoHacker]

Houston we have Separation.......!!!
thanks for sharing, and the great photos.

nice work !!!!!

Thanks for the tips and encouragement, she's out! Hopefully is not pneumonia, but had all the symptoms, and it's hanging on (taking medicine, but

[fixkick]

the pilot shaft end shows. at some time the fly wheel pilot bearing sized, and damaged the tip like that.
is your fly side bearing bad? some are just rusty hulks.
there now grab the front shaft, and move it side to side, if you see play , that front bearing is bad in the case. (very very common)
next check the 2 rubber plugs are not missing, top front of casing left and right, they are glued in with factory trim glue. i think. but are glued in, and if fall out , bad leaks. of GL4

neutral (parked) whine is kiss of death for box. (means it may just need new bearings. not toast ,not unserviceable.)
make sure bolt 54 looks un molested. no loose, not missing, or wrong bolt. if it does the reverse gear if misaligned will make noise all the time.

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in most cases, the needle bearing will be like new.
#3 is prime fail, (huge stresses on this bearing, clutch there and all)
#11 next, and for sure if towed over 200 miles.... it runs dry.... and... oops....

many bearings don't spin at all in 4th (lockup) so , is a good fact. there.

part 29 bearing is needle on some and balls on others, my 91 was ball bearing. lucky for me the kit had ball type.
the cluster runs on 3 bearings,. and spin at all times. (clutch out)

some times bearing 3 is so bad, it make the pilot to front cluster gear whine, all the time. (look for bluing on gears, and is bad sign of overheated, and gear now butter like soft)

on mine the front pilot shaft end was destroyed, and suzuki charged me $150 for new one. i had spare junk yard trans and all were damaged there.

[GeoHacker]

the pilot shaft end shows. at some time the fly wheel pilot bearing sized, and damaged the tip like that.
is your fly side bearing bad? some are just rusty hulks.
#11 next, and for sure if towed over 200 miles.... it runs dry.... and... oops....

Thanks for that nice sketch/illustration and information. I am degreasing today and hopefully beginning the removing of the sectional parts.

I sure hope my gears aren't overheated and putty like now, but it's possible. I am kind of stuck then. I would expect #11 being worn because as you know my oil got low, and that one is up top there, and it's also close to 5th which is the noisiest one. My main shaft wiggle isn't a whole lot but I don't have the support off yet.

I haven't gotten a look at the clutch pilot and flywheel areas yet, will take the pressure plate off soon, and inspect.

Forgive me if a FAQ, but do I need to worry about spin balancing a new clutch pressure plate with my existing flywheel Or can I put it on some kind of balance get a best "fit" and go with it? New flywheels are not too bad ($75'ish), but I'm cash challenged for all this already, hope my original is ok.

I don't suppose a noisy transfer case chain or something there would cause my 4th and 5th gear noises... I haven't intended to rebuild the transfer case too, I have enough problems, but wonder if I should also do that as a catch-all solution. The oil there was not inspiring but it did have the full complement.

On the other hand, can take that off by itself a lot easier, so not as big a problem if not rebuilt this go-around.

rc

[fixkick]

no spin,,, the clutch is blanced by self.
the fly is balanced with crank shaft. so match more the flywheel if you take it off. (OCD)
if the fly is to come off , i put a punch mark next to 1 bolt ,take 1 bolt only off, and then use liquid paper down in the threads. so i can put it back like i found it.
i bet the fly is ok.....
the chain can be heard on car driving., with stethoscope. (wired kind)
off car, is real hard to do , taking it all apart... super hard.
but if in 2h the transmission whines, it should not be the xfr case. or chain,,,, in most cases. the front is locked from front to rear. and no torque to the front axle... so the chain sould never make noise in 2h,

that is right the transfer case will unbolt on car, after the hidden bolt is removed.
TRANSFER CASE? ITS DEAD IN 5SP NEUTRAL.
if the locking front axle hugs are not locked or bad then the front axle is dead.
and in 2H , part 28 is slid forward, and dogs at 29 are not messed, so the the chain is not moving at all IN 2h, and can not make noise.,same with bearing 34 pair, And 43

in 2h front pilot shaft is locked to the main shaft 16, so those bearings can make noise, but not with 5sp box in neutral, because the xfr case has no input. and you said it whines in 5sp neutral, main trans.

no matter what, all tests are serial, front to rear... good clutch, good 5sp box, only now can we assess the xfr case. (moving, 2h,4h and 4l and xfr neutral,)

[GeoHacker]

next check the 2 rubber plugs are not missing, top front of casing left and right, they are glued in with factory trim glue. i think. but are glued in, and if fall out , bad leaks. of GL4

There is an outlet just below the 3 philips head plugs on top of the transmission at front, driver side. It is missing the plastic plug (picture 1). That might be where my GL4 went.

The only other one I see is on the transfer case, at rear (passenger side), under 2 similar slotted plugs/bolts and that one is there.

I reckon these are a dealer only item?

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so the chain sould never make noise in 2h,

Thanks for the information once again.

I do get some whirring noise when in 4wd HI, was never sure if was front differential or the transfer, seems more up front, so suspected differential for that.
I'll not worry about such for now I think, since it's only a couple days each year at most, and can do later if is problematic. I'm 2WD 363 days out of the year.

[fixkick]

one could find a generic plug. and glue it in
but the dealer has them , seems the glue dries out,
so i used RTV , after cleaning holes with carb cleaner , all oil off.
that is where the GL4 goes. on most. its not a good deal for the box.

i can see the wash below the hole.. not good. that.


the case is glued together, using special sealant. ThreeBond 1211

https://www.google.com/webhp?gws_rd=ssl#...ebond+1211

the plug is cover on my pages. the photos shows the real suz p/n

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/plugs.JPG

$1.44 each.
http://www.suzukicarparts.com/parts/1995...eid=214820

i think home depot as this drawer of rubber corks (lots of sizes), id cut it down and glue it in....

[GeoHacker]

Some but not all of that wash was from me wiping grime, but I suspect its where my leak was in part.

Thanks for the plug info.

I have the bell off, throwout is noisy if you are shaking, can hear the balls rattle, but smooth in rotation. Borderline dead. It will be renewed along with clutch.

I removed all 12 bolts attaching transmission to spacer case (I think, unless there's one from the opposite, inside spacer or something)

[GeoHacker]

Anybody know best way to separate stuck cases? I have all the bolts out of transmission and spacer case, but they are locked together still, I guess by either the small tube/dowel pins, or the gasket material.

Rubber mallet? Jump on it?

[GeoHacker]

Rubber mallet? Jump on it?

Transfer case came off easy. Spacer case is still stuck to transmission case. All bolts off, been beating it with a rubber mallet, 2 x 4

[fixkick]

im not sure at what step you are at, bell off, ? and rear extension off? and you are doing the final vertical split? is the front pilot shaft collar off, all 8 bolts.

this TOP case IS glued together with Superbond 1211 (aka as Suzuki bond) day 1. and will be hard as nails after 20 years.
the TOP case DOES have built in pry points.!
I always look for those, (motor cycle guys learn this fast... or leak city) and find them fast. almost all cases have these special pry bosses.... dont not try to jam metal in the seams. that wrecks all aluminum cases fast.
see photo below from the FSM page, this page is very clear on case split......
the exception is the suzuki engine oil pan and the RTV there, and the special Suzuki spitter tool, wedge, covered in plastic. (i use plastic tree cut down tool , those yellow wedges (old days were steel) and make great pry tools, safe......sold in all good places that sell china saws ) the are Poly wedges, but i never use them on transmissions... just wood blocks and rubber hammers.... never hit steel against steel.

off my 5sp page, rebuilders. is this link below see page 8 and 9.


http://www.acksfaq.com/pdfs/sidekick_dri...manual.pdf

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see that PDF< tell us where you are in that book.
what page, what step..

"Spacer case" i missed that it showed up as i typed,,,,,,
i guess the rear 4wd adapter is stuck>? (the word rear helps me greatly)
so both shifter top part is off and the base shifter extension is off? extension housing? of top of tranny , exposing the hidden bolt on top?
you are at step 3 , page 8 , transmission unit...?
it only says remove housing,, terse.
all 1ing?2 bolts removed on that hous
the housing is not full of GL4 , on a running car, 4WD, it has AIR in there, so if you do damage it , do so on the top,, (it must come off evenly !!!!)
the case is not glued on, if it is ,someone had a brain fart.
the bottom of that case is a vent hole, see it? that is the tell tale hole that the 2 seals above are leaking GL4, (box or xfr seals) see my slide show for that hole.

look for pry bosses..!! this is always rule 1, on all aluminum casings.
if none, then use wood, and hit the wood with a hammer , round and round taking full patience.!!!. it will separate. after all there is nothing there hold it in, its just a spacer housing.(and guide pins !)

the top of the tranny step is more hard,
the pry bosses are there.
also there are wings it this front of case, seen here. if you must pry , if f the special center case spilt bosses are not enough. but should be...
those wings are prime targets. as they have no seals on the outer parts.... see that???

see those wings here bottom left. and the GUIDE PINS< (the pins can jam if you dont take it off evenly) true on all cases with PIN guides.

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see me here add this housing after its off, I am checking my seals and bearing fits, and if there is no end to end jamming, well before final assembly!!!!!. .i am here
as you can see , nothing holds it but 12 bolts.
also see my DIY free, magic tools ,here, gear pullers, and chain tricks....
see this slide show. off my 5sp rebuilders log, the photos make it clear what holds what..

frame 20 shows the vent hole , mentioned above. air filled casing it is...

frame 3&4 shows end of case. and see that gap there, and that only pins and 12 bolts hold it.?

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/images/html/image_3.html



see the case just split and NO GLUE HERE, and see the 2 guide pins, those pings (hollow and large) must not be allowed to jam, by attempting to remove case cockeyed.......



in my case the PO caused the transfer case to not want to ever ever come off....
i used a huge 4wd chevy truck and a huge 24" fir tree, to separate this casing.... due to spline jam up... big time..
but in your cars the transfer case is already off. per normal.

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i cut a hole in the center case. to look in side, and go, OMG, what is that, a home made tail main shaft, with a dremel tool.. what a monster he was..... amazing fact.
I had 2 trans, and 2 transfer cases, allowing me to make one good system. like new.