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8V valve cover gasket AGAIN YES AGAIN AGAIN
#11
looks like its shrinking, try a real Felpro gasket? yet?
they are not pure cork, but are core+neoprene or some such makeup , quality

never seen a Felpro do this, only get hard from age.
most imported gasket are clones, (wild guessing of makeup)
FEL-PRO Part # VS50323C

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframec...type=10710

or beck.
are good.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#12
both looked 'real' but wonder if counterfeit.
i got first from JEGS online 799. free shipping,
now this one from ADVANCE AUTO 7.99
i will look it over for clues to being a REAL ONE??
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#13
what matters is the box , the parts come on a box, or package
and with name of maker and partnumbers...
felpro makes top quality parts, always have, for decades.

you bought this part,?


http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpr...ver+gasket


fixing cars is easy, finding good parts today? not easy.


the felpro is in a box.
and bagged and seals,
and with Part No. VS 50323 C
clearly marked on it.

some stores, in some regions, also sell imported, knockoff parts. that are noname, they have no name. period.
or sell store band names, like Duraxxxx at autozoned.
i avoid them,, as they dont last. most dont last. for sure the cheapest parts.

the jegs shows on part, the Felpro. online.
try napa>? they sell good parts. and can get them fast from there networked stores.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catalo...0147367229
http://www.fixkick.com
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#14
1: not overheated.
2: real Felpro not counterfeits.
3: not using wild additives ot the oil, that could damage seals.,etc.
4: no huge vacuum in the crankcase. (or huge blow-by but BB that would force the seal outward, not inward)
5: may be it needs to be glued "RTV" in to top of valve cover, ive been force to do that on cars for 50 years, with tin covers. (stamped steel it is)
6: exceeding "3.0 - 3.5" foot/lbs torque will do just this, it bends the tin, and causes the gasket to (move)

i've seen many VC cover, that are very dirty and i find that that the gasket creeps.
so i clean this VC cover grove so it is clean is dinner plate, and free of all oil, grease, etc.
then i glue the gasket to the cover.
install it with 3 ft./lbs, (36 inch/lbs) and it cures overnight. and will never creep again,
done many British sports cars from 60s; like that, and were all cured. (they too love to creep.)
The G16b never does this, just the G1xA engines. with steel covers, the FSM just says, reverse above....... bla bla....
http://www.fixkick.com
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#15
looks like REAL felpro from ADVANCE..
40 inch pounds.....used copper spray adhesive...the valve cover was soaked overnight in solvent. ( easier now to blow thru)
NEW PCV valve..
it was stuck open.. hi vacuum at idle? makes the gasket suck in????
time will tell..so far so good!!!!
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#16
the pcv has an orifice,small and cant really suck much, at all, stock.
but one guy here had Lincoln PCV off huge V8. causing odd things....
copper coat slippery , to prevent head gaskets from sticking and ripping apart, with thermal expansion? and to fill in head gasket to block inperfections.
its for heads, and mostly old cast iron types. never alum. (what the new can spray, by Permatex does, ive no clues)

most gaskets need nothing, in fact many have the sealants "built into the gasket" today, using other sealants can interfere with that.
id use RTV only and only if needed.
there are after market pure neoprene gaskets to buy, but are long wait in the mail.and $$$$

id not ever use coppercoat today, i have some but it sits there.
the usage was for heads, but today's heads and gaskets, are setup for fast large aluminum expansion, using special gaskets. id never use it for this now.
try a new dry gasket, leave the gasket do its thing.
it failed in a short time. so what ever it is, is wrong.
id say, it would go 60k miles no problem.

the msds shows, ETHYL ACETATE and cooper and piles of solvents.
not sure with the acetate does to cork, (composites) might be bad .
the copper alone, after its fully dry, would act as micro ball bearings, i think.

i also use this , for contact gaskets.
Hylomar (aka. Locktite 819.)

one great usage is holding up the water pump gasket , as you put it on,
finding some is hard, most stores only sell permetex products, on the shelf.

i do not like RTV, i try to avoid it.
it can get inside the engine easy, and can be sucked in to the oil pump screen.
ive seen it in bearing caps. (oil slots)
once heard , you have to scrape it all off. hard work and can get in the engine easy.
that 819, you can get the gasket off later and it dont stick there.
when permatex bought loctite out. they ended, the 819, sadly
but it is sold by one company still.

http://www.grainger.com/product/HYLOMAR-...3P427_AS01?$smthumb$

also Threebond makes good products like this.
the suzuki transmission is glued together with it. (as are Catapiller casings)
and productes like the Hylomar.

sealants are a complex topic,
http://www.fixkick.com
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#17
i'll try a new dry and clean one next time lol.. it's like prego spaghetti sause.. ITS IN THERE

I think the bad pcv valve + the internal baffle being partly plugged might have made for a vacuum inside the top end/..///???

work in progresss
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#18
The PCV has tiny orifice (and check valve) limits flow there, but a clogged vent side will pull a vacuum in the crankcase. (if ring blowby is low )
id not use coppercoat, it's work like teflon. makes the gasket slippery.
http://www.fixkick.com
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