1994 Tracker won't start after checking compression

[fixkick]

the rings are all bad. and equal, or valves all bad but equal. makes no sense any of that.
cam timed wrong,
its not exh blocked.
is the car without antifreeze and you cracked head or block?
its not external oil leaks the dizzy on all these old cars leak to rear of engine as does valve cover gasket petrified.

that antifreeze is a big clue, no way is that allowed there, did you check head torque i bet its way off.

over heated and warped head
or running weak AF and cracked it. (ice damage)

i bet head torque is all odd. and funny.

[ddbernier]

The car has antifreeze and has not been low. I checked the head torque and all bolts were within specification.

While looking further under the dash, I noticed a Viper Auto Security System model 900+ wired into the car. Is there anyway this is messing up the electrical system? Should I remove it or leave it alone?

I connected a pressure gauge inline after the FPR and turned the key on/off a few times, but no pressure. I tried starting it, and only could force it to roughly start with WOT, but was not able to stay running. Stopping for now, but looking more at the fuel later.

[fixkick]

antifreeze fluid has no business there, ever, there is a breach, somewhere.
the FPR return , run huge flows, of fuel. so your your pump is bad. or not with full 12vdc to it .
what is rail pressure?
SURE ~
the viper, if i had that, it pull it but at the least what wires it invades, (spark , fuel, primary wiring,) maybe it cuts fuel? its custom , so anything is possible.
VIPER can (?) invade key crank path, spark or fuel pump. (top 3 ways to mess with running) or more, who knows? what others did?

your car has many problems. we can find them all ,just takes some time.
that antifreese leak can be compustion changer breached, or just a cracked intake, manifold, or its gasket.
on any 8v, lots more, cracked ISC heat path internal, cracked throttle body internals. or TB base gasket (it uses hot water too)

after the key way work, crank did you do the TDC validation, checks, at piston to pulley marks, if not cam and dizzy are timed wrong.
i use #11 here to find it

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/TDC/TDC.html

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/TDC-ISSUES...9-TOOL.jpg


first done with CW turned crank find TDC, make a mark.
then CCW, chock marked again.
then average of 2 marks above is true TDC ,if way off , this explain 100 PSI low pressure. easy.
and the crank pulley loves to slip it's internal rubber damper, making TDC ALL wrong. (for spark)
using this tool gets finds and allows you to correct TDC errors. both at crank and at Pulley

can be a double fail, the crank key wrong and pulley guts slipped.

[fixkick]

one thing else. open the top of your TB the big air pipe, engine runs perfectly on all 8v this way.
yours key is in pocket
look down TB air horn and open throttle 100% by hand there, see into PLENUM below TB? see green AF there>?
if not the TB and ISC are not leaking (short of total intake removal)

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that green bothers me, big time.
I never ignore solid evidence,
100psi compression nor the mean green.

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if you have a harbor freight store
the cheap fuel pressure gauge has the suzuki 6mm hose that fits to the filter test port. (banjo port)
see hose to right, this fits perfectly.

http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-inject...92699.html

the FPR return flows all the time, if not, your pump is weak or dead or lacks 12vdc power.
you do know the pump runs on 3 seconds each key on,?
not sure how you checked the return line running engine or not?

[fixkick]

that return line tests.
takes 2 persons, one to key, one to look
let me explain why, if the pump buzzes for 3 seconds key on, did it, (listen at the gas cap off hole)
if the pump has leakdown or injector leaks, the return will be dead, 1 man.
see why?
say you key on, and its 35psi, you key off and pressure goes to zero in 5 seconds.oops that is a totally different error
do the 8 tests in my pump page in order so the facts are clear.
see them here?
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/pump.html#pumptests

#1 on a 8v , is harder, but the return line can do. on 16v we crack the front rail plug.
#2 is key on pressure, 34 to 41 psi , no more , no less.!!!
key off, pressure must hold for 25 seconds. (most do way way longer) if not that is a LEAK.

[ddbernier]

There are multiple problems with this car. I am focusing on compression first, since it is so low.

I removed the timing and valve covers. The cam and crank cogs were aligned. However, in the spirit of getting the root cause of the compression problem, I removed the timing belt and loosened the valve adjusters to reduce tension from the cam while replacing the timing belt. The pictures are from the reinstalled timing belt with #4 cylinder at the compression stroke. I followed the instructions on fixkick. http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/tbelt8v.html.

   

   

The valve lash as reset following http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/LASH/Lash8v.html. I reinstalled the valve and timing covers. I checked the compression, and it has not changed. I am at a loss on what to adjust to get the compression up to 150psi on the cold engine. If the pictures show you anything that I am missing, let me know.

[ddbernier]

Update:

With the timing and valve covers off and the spark plugs removed, I watched the #4 piston through the spark plug hole as I rotated the engine through its cycles. When the piston was at TDC, the crank shaft was not aligned, see picture.

   

Is it possible that the crank shaft rod and bearings are out of alignment and the bearings were spun?

[fixkick]

you stripped the crank key.

[fixkick]

that bolt on the front, is almost never torqued to the TSB spec.
94ft.lbs. and if A/T trans almost assured.
this strips the key, i think you already looked??? but did not get it corrected right.

here is what some find. and some can be fixed, but not this one, its near hopeless.
this is the first thing to check, day one buy G16 engine.
your cam is timed wrong.
recovery is here but must be validated with TDC tools. after the fix. see step 18 there?
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/damage/index.html

[ddbernier]

I fixed this problem in Nov using the Locktite product with a new woodruff key and crankshaft cog. The new bolt was torqued to 94 ft.lbs when I reassembled it. I will remove the bolt and inspect it to see if the repair did not hold.