noise when taking off

[gorkyb]

Hi everyone, I have a humming noise on my Tracker only when letting off the clutch pedal on first gear. It does not happen when I let off the clutch going on reverse or any other gear. I can only hear it when I let off the pedal on first gear for the first inch or so. Any ideas what I should check for?

I never checked the gear oil level since I bought the car, I will do that this week.

[dynabill]

I just looked at the fixkick pages, there is some great info there. here isthe link http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clu...-kick.html
the little bit that I read says if there is any noises with slight pressure it could be the throw out bearing. at any rate check it out.

[fixkick]

Hi everyone, I have a humming noise on my Tracker only when letting off the clutch pedal on first gear. It does not happen when I let off the clutch going on reverse or any other gear. I can only hear it when I let off the pedal on first gear for the first inch or so. Any ideas what I should check for?

I never checked the gear oil level since I bought the car, I will do that this week.

just 1st. how odd that is.
no noises, letting clutch out in neutral?
as bill says , make sure the clutch has free play and then when you depress pedal taking up slack, the T/O bearing does not talk, that is, make noise.
make sure side level plug (check) removed out first, before draining box. and org. boxes the factory use what i call glue, (sealants) on 2 plugs. and turns
to very hard glue like, when old, using heat on it helps, it's 10mm square shaft. socket plug\


http://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-2049-Soc...ug+Sockets

[gorkyb]

Confirmed, no noises when letting off in neutral. Only first gear and only the first inch or so of the pedal. I have to inspect the whole assembly from beginning to end, check play on cable and still have to check the gear lube. I bought the square key for the plug from amazon, I will do it this weekend. I have another issue now with vibration at 65 mph and up, pretty bad. I removed my wheels to powder coat them and had them mounted and balanced, now I have this issue. I hope the tire shop balanced them right. I will check for protuberances on the tires and maybe swapping wheels around just to see if the vibration gets better or worse. I checked brakes when the tires were off and they seem normal, rear and front.

[fixkick]

noise diagnosis is one of the most hard things to do and can be dangerous. so do be careful.

some better tire shops have on car balance machine,
but if the struts dampner or shocks are bad , even tiny imbalances will be extreme. yes , swap them. the wheel/tires around.

it start with a new clutch cable, and GL4 lube, new clutch is 10 hrs labor.

[gorkyb]

I have bigger problems now anyway. On Thursday when I was driving and trying to figure out the vibration on the car I drove up to 80 mph for shorts period of time to see when the vibration comes and/or goes. I guess I can say I drove the car pretty hard that time (compared to my usual mellow driving) Yesterday I skipped driving the car because "Andrea" brought lots of rain to our area. This morning I went to start the car to drive it on the ramps and check the GL4 lube and it would crank strongly but no start. Fuel pressure is good, after several tries the car barely started, when at idle it's ok but as soon as I tried depressing the gas pedal, it would want to die. I let it run for a few minutes, then I went to give it the gas and if I did it suddenly and quick it would keep wanting to die, if I did it slowly and gradually, the engine would rev up. I pulled only one pending code: P0420. No disconnected vacuum hoses anywhere, nothing obvious that I could see in the intake or anywhere in the engine bay. ISC unplugged nearly stalled the engine as well as closed-by-hand EGR. I took the timing belt cover off (I've done it so many times I've got it down to 20 minutes) and timing is right on. No wet or full of carbon spark plugs. I had to leave for work, when I get back home I'll check compression and MAF.

[fixkick]

I have bigger problems now anyway. On Thursday when I was driving and trying to figure out the vibration on the car I drove up to 80 mph for shorts period of time to see when the vibration comes and/or goes. I guess I can say I drove the car pretty hard that time (compared to my usual mellow driving) Yesterday I skipped driving the car because "Andrea" brought lots of rain to our area. This morning I went to start the car to drive it on the ramps and check the GL4 lube and it would crank strongly but no start. Fuel pressure is good, after several tries the car barely started, when at idle it's ok but as soon as I tried depressing the gas pedal, it would want to die. I let it run for a few minutes, then I went to give it the gas and if I did it suddenly and quick it would keep wanting to die, if I did it slowly and gradually, the engine would rev up. I pulled only one pending code: P0420.
ignore 420, is not a soon pending smog test, 420s is lazy cat, ignore it and it most times goes away when you cruise , in closed loop.
in closed loop it will get nice and hot, and bake dry inside, and many come back to LIFE.
but on the other hand, did 80mph , cause the CAT to crack and start breaking up, and cause huge back pressure.
use vacuum gauge, carb fuel pressure section attached to front 02 bung, and see if pressure is below 2psi at 2500rpm in neutral, for that possible.
if fuel pressure is good, you should see the reason for no engine power, using full scan like below.

use a scan tool. and see whats going on.
did it stop idling , in closed loop, yes, we find that first. , is MAF reacting properly, 5gs, then up to 20? with normal loads.?



No disconnected vacuum hoses anywhere, nothing obvious that I could see in the intake or anywhere in the engine bay. ISC unplugged nearly stalled the engine as well as closed-by-hand EGR. I took the timing belt cover off (I've done it so many times I've got it down to 20 minutes) and timing is right on. No wet or full of carbon spark plugs. I had to leave for work, when I get back home I'll check compression and MAF.

if lash is good, your compression should be good, 170psi warm


i got the wifi , page up. see my scantool.net tool,

http://www.fixkick.com/ELM327/4251WF.html


see this, see the maf, I had the car in gear, and drove against hard brakes, 0mph and got 20 grams a sec, air flow. just 1 second if a clutch. (it will smoke)
i did this with 4speed, in drive. but can be done with stick shift if you do it fast,
if you have tool like this even the OBDwiz can log data while driving, the software is way more advanced than the clone tools .

---

make sure the MAF cant bounce, missing maf mounts? (beats it to death)
or after market wet oil soaked, air filters, bad. (clean maf from 8 inches away ,spray if you suspect a maf that is coked up. wet it , wait 1min, repeat 3 times let the cleaner work.)
look at fuel trim, if you have an air leak , it will show up at idle worse. and show up short term. huge PLUS numbers (adding fuel to correct air leaks). mine runs about -3 at idle, (perfect)
mine shows 0 above because, i stalled the engine. for this test.
note huge advance 45deg.

one more trick, if you suspect the maf, (no scan tools) then unplug it.
this will force limphome and maf emulation, power will be limited, but not as much as a dead maf. 1/2 power, in limphome mimic , i guess.?

first check for closed loop, at hot idle. if not, closed, loop, diagnose that first. it easier to diagnose , bad idle AFR, parked. fix that first.

[gorkyb]

Sounds like a plan, in the meantime I was ready to put everything back together this morning and at close inspection I found out a broken tooth on the washer-like flange between the crank snout and the oil pump, i understand the crank sensor produces its signals off these teeth so I ordered a new snout and new bolt from lowrangeoffroad, it makes no sense at this point to put it all back until that part comes in.

I forgot to tell you also that I purchased an used oem air cleaner box, so no more cone filter, all oem off a 95 sidekick. In the meantime I will be rebuilding the front brake calipers since the driver's side was getting stuck from time to time.

Regarding the suspicious noisy clutch situation, when I was loosing the p/s pump to take the crank pulley off I noticed the p/s pulley had been running on the clutch cable. I can see the metal jacket under the plastic exposed, I think for the price is worth getting a new cable anyway.

I've been meaning to test pressure on the exhaust before at the o2 sensor hole, do you know what size of fitting I need flying connect my vacuum gauge at that port?

[fixkick]

exh diameters? you asked , email.
there are computer models for that.
if you have a CAT, it dont matter much. as that missing kills EGR and that kills smog test passing, for high NOX and HC
but in a pure tuning situation, no cat.? you have no cat?
the engines VE can be tuned, with proper sizing of the exhaust. "volumetric Efficiency"

perfect VE is 100% (the engine pumps air at 100% efficiency) 400cc per slug of air. (each piston, 400x4 is 1.6L) just air, when burning fuel this volume is vastly larger.
at low RPMs the EV is already very high with 4 valves per jug.
but at higher speeds and loads (less stock EV) , the exhaust can be tuned 2 ways, diameter and length. it's like a trombone musical instrument.

in fact, some race motors. have say 90% EV at full track speed, so the TUNER, adjusts the exh. tube (2 way), for even greater than 100% VE , sounds impossible but the valve over lap can do that. the exhaust literally sucks (scavenging)
on the intake (a free turbo effect ) but only works at 150mph on a track and at one speed. (as tuned by tuner to do , just exact that,. full power in straight-a-ways.)

for the street a long pipe gives best low end torque. and does long intake (CAI messes that up) (kinda nice on the streets or off road)
and diameter, if you make it too big, you kill scavenging effect. (lost exhaust velocity)
how big is too big. I dont know.
that would take some very expensive dyno time or track time. some guys have this data but is secret and not applicable due to other big changes on motor, displacements/heads or turbo, etc.

1.-5/8 inches (41mm) is perfect, over that is over kill (or worse, lost scavenging) beyond that, is track times, or (dyno) or computer models at 1.6L and YOU pick MAX EV point in RPM.

http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-...eter/#easy

above is with free flowing mufflers.

[gorkyb]

I'll stick to the existing exhaust and just replace the CAT for now. Crank gear and bolt came in from Suzuki Southwest last night. I plan to put all this back together tonight. Rebuilt the calipers, not too bad of a job, a little easier than I thought.