96 1,6 16v no power,hesitation, onder Load

[Big dane]

Hej i nead help. My vitara is a 1,6 16v manual obd1 1996 Europa i made a full tuneup 15 days ago the car ran super but 3 day's ago there was a small bug at lift off from traffic lights only one bug every time. Yesterday as I was driving and wanted to acellerate the engine was hessetating and it was like it only ran on 2 cyl no power, I lifted off on throttle and it ran normal again when I press the throttle hard it starts to hessetating again and moves slowly faster ontil it's gets op to the speed that matches the throttle position then all normal again, up hill it hesstates in all gears.when the engine is cold 5 degrees Celsius all is fine for 2 min then it starts again. Cell light go out on engine start. I have pulled the tps whire off and cell coming on but engine acts the same.
Sorry for my bad English I am from Denmark

[fixkick]

Hello Big Dane and Welcome!

your words are all clear. bogs hot , not cold.
Hot wide open throttle, bogs? and never catches up.?
WOT fails, up hills? (in all gears) and never catches up.
The TPS allows fast throttle responses., called enrich-mode,
then The MAF catches up, (its slow)
try unplugging the oxygen sensor , see if it runs better hot.
(one more check?, sorry is 5 Degr. Celsius out. but spark tips, might hold a clue. if black colored. )
is this a 2 door? (called 3 there and 4 doors are 5 there)
G16B, 5speed, OBD1 96'

[Big dane]

Hello fixkick and thank you!
wide open throttle in gear bogs never catches up only if I back down the throttle a bit then power is back and I can gently Rev it up
Wot up hill in all Gear it never catches up only if I back down the throttle a bit, but as soon I try to gently rev it up it's bogging down again
It is a 2 door convertible g16b 5 speed
At idel speed der is boogs and it runs right for a second and then boogs for 10 sec and then runs right for 1 second and so on. Cold 1500 rpm then 800 rpm When hot
If I Rev the engine hard in neutral gear there's boogs up until 1500 rpm, after all ok. if I gently revs it there is no problems at all
The oxygen sensor is new,the fpr is new, the maf is new,all org. Suzuki
The sparks looks like running lean

[Big dane]

Hello fixkick and thank you!
wide open throttle in gear bogs never catches up only if I back down the throttle a bit then power is back and I can gently Rev it up
Wot up hill in all Gear it never catches up only if I back down the throttle a bit, but as soon I try to gently rev it up it's bogging down again
It is a 2 door convertible g16b 5 speed
At idel speed der is boogs and it runs right for a second and then boogs for 10 sec and then runs right for 1 second and so on. Cold 1500 rpm then 800 rpm When hot
If I Rev the engine hard in neutral gear there's boogs up until 1500 rpm, after all ok. if I gently revs it there is no problems at all
The oxygen sensor is new,the fpr is new, the maf is new,all org. Suzuki
The sparks looks like running lean

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Hello again
Today I have tested the fuel system. pump ok, fpr ok, injectors not leaking, all tested as you recommended on your site.
I also calibrated the tps no problem. But the volt test key on wasn't good, when I test for volt output pin1 to pin3, there was 0,9 idle, and as I turned the gas, it slowly rise until near the end at 3,9v ther was a gab where the meter vent OL if I gave more throttle it vent up to 4,2v.
The ohm test key off and connector off, pin 1 to pin2 start idle 2000 ohm to wot 5000 ohm.

[fixkick]

low fuel pressure,
the left rear tail light off, reveals, the pump ground lug, at body metal.
loves top fail here.
fuel filter packed?
pump pressure at spec, 30-37 psi, then gun it to wot in neutral and pressure will rise to 5psi more, say you get 35psi, idle so wot goes to 41. (43max)
and the fpreg tested good, the FPreg, raises fuel pressure 6psi at wide open throttle, if not bam , bogs.

tps is good, 1v to near 4v, is normal for the TP pin, (enrich pin) 4.2its ok for wot, even more, its just a crude POT (var. resistor)
its 0v bottoms side Ground) and 4.75 to 5.25 on top side, so the wot can gear over 4vdc easy.

maf
Start car, this pin must be 1.7

[Big dane]

Helle fixkick. I put in a new fuel pump an filter I cleaned the fuel lines.
Pump pressure key on no start 43 psi. Idle 35 psi. 2000 rpm 33psi. If I gun the throttle to wot 43 psi.
Maf test start car 1,9v 800 rpm gun throttle 3,2 v.
Tomorrow Il order a new fpr, her in Denmark it is difficult to get parts there isn't many vitaras on the road about 30 cars so
The car dealerships don't have a lot of parts in house. There is a long delivery time on parts. All pump test done at fuel rail. If I pinc the fuel return line 60psi

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The engine is now idling rogh and if I gun the throttle in neutral it revs slow and stuttering if I slowly Rev it its all ok

[fixkick]

all that is perfect , good !
the FPR is working, 8 psi range very good. you have full pressure, up hills, open throttle, with this regulator.
maf is ok.
bad TPS< i check all things then , if all things good, it must be TPS< the thing is expensive, like $200+
but
I have pulled the tps wire off and cel come on, but engine acts the same.
gee, that is limhome mode (tps pulled), and is about 1/2 power, and rpm limits . (means power loss TPS connected is near like limphome mode)
the engine run ok cold. so...
bad spark,? why would spark be ok only cold.? i say to self.?
is ECU locked in Failsafe, limphome?

i forgot to ask this first. sorry. (i mixed up 2 posts in my head)
the CEL lamp works?, comes on key on, start car and goes out?running.?
does ecu flash out code 12 , with magic jumper, (diag jumper inserted? to DLC conn.)
fresh spark plugs, and good wires HV?

spark timing ok?, if it goes way off the timing belt slipped.

[Big dane]

Hello fikick
CEL lamp on key on,of start.CEL flash 12 code with jumper insorted. Spark plugs are new spark plug wires new. Timing is bouncing from 5* to 20* at idle. Idle is rogh 1100 - 500 rpm. Timing belt checkt all marks ok, rotor cyl 4. Cat checkt ok I see light and honeycomb.
Tps test pin 1 -pin3 ohms 1100 idle 4400 wot ???. EGR clean and ok.
When I gun throttle up hill it sounds like there is a big hole in muffler when I back off throttle slowly and engine catch up and run right again the sound is gone and all normal again
This Is only possible if I go down hil or if the road is flat.up Hill never catch up.
Tps prise in Denmark 700$ Oem,Sad face.Found a used one in Holland 75$, happy face

[fixkick]

welcome back!

Hello fikick
CEL lamp on key on,of start.CEL flash 12 code with jumper inserted. good ECU not going nuts with bad CAP.'S capacitors.


Spark plugs are new spark plug wires new. Timing is bouncing from 5* to 20* at idle (normal). Idle is rough 1100 - 500 rpm.
500?
Timing belt checked all marks ok, rotor cyl 4. Cat check ok I see light and honeycomb. all good tests ,great
Tps test pin 1 -pin3 ohms 1100 idle 4400 wot ???. EGR clean and ok.
When I gun throttle up hill it sounds like there is a big hole in muffler , probably is? tell more?
when I back off throttle slowly and engine catch up and run right again, the sound, is gone and all normal again.

This Is only possible if I go down hill or if the road is flat.up Hill never catch up. wot fails up hill .
Tps prise in Denmark 700$ Oem,Sad face.Found a used one in Holland 75$, happy face

lots of questions. and comments based on your statements.
is gas(petrol) old or car sat for years, unused, yes, then the injector can be clogged.
the W.O.T up a HILL CAUSES, ARE THE BEST PATH TO FINDING THIS.
lets work that, only. ( the harder the fail and the more simple path is best way)

it's not tps. lets cross them off
The ECU injects based on many inputs it seems they are all good, and ecu IS GOOD . iNPUTS GOOD, PROCESS, OUTPUT (GOOD OR BAD)
Engine gets fully hot. 180F or more and holds.
1: bad fuel or all 4 injectors clogged.? or caused by bad fuel.
2: ecu good. seems so.
3: we do not have fuel tables for injector pulse widths and are hard to check up hills. so can not see if they are correct. INJ PWM durations pulses.
4: cat not clogged
5: engine compression at about 170psi warm to hot, and done at WOT, (bad engines dont run)
6: maf not weak. seems to be ok.
7: fuel pressure seems very good. and at wot , gunning the throttle, wot, so its good, but good pressures never proves FLOW.
8: EGR not stuck open. good.
9: ECT reads 300 ohms hot water in block. 300 ohms = 180F or so.. hot engine unplug it and read it.
10: HOW does car drive with oxygen (lambda) un plugged. ? OBD1 has the bad deal where it can fail and force way lean or rich fueling, (exhuast leaks near it?) I do not think this is it, as o2 is off-line at WOT. but is a good test for light driveablity issues, (2 problems happen)

I think the injectors are clogged. (THE ECU CAN NOT CURE THIS, it has no fuel pressure monitors like new cars , have)
i think the eCU PULSE widths (INJ) are ok, at wot THIS is normal the ECU uses mAf TO INJECT MOSTLY, so when WOT fails, i check my fuel pressure and injectors for proper flows.
try item 10:?

i think I have all ways here for this failure
if not say so....
posted from South Peru beach house.

keep in mind,bad fuel will clog injectors, they have 10micron screens inside.
and must be back flushed or use ultrasonic cleaner at the same time to get them really clean.
$20 each here.(off car service)
good luck to you!

PS, bad fuel tends to clog all 4 injectors, and all my seem flow equal but are all just clogged.(partial)

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to get 95hp, up a hill , simple, and by logic of ECU
fuel pressure near 43psi, (wot causes, and seen by you)
maf shows full air flow,
ecu ok
ecu sees all inputs are good, and valid for wot uphill event.
ecu ends closed loop (o2 off line)
ecu sends correct pulses (size) to injectors (95hp total, or 25 HP per injector worth)
the injector is clogged. and can't inject for 25HP and power is weak, and lean. and valves heat up fast. too fast. back off throttle now.

[Big dane]

Hello again
Problem fixed, it turned out to be the spark plug wiers cyl 2 and 3 they made a spark to the head deep in the spark plug hole
Where it was hidden from eye sight.
I found some Honda wiers that did the job, the car never ran better.
The "old" wiers I put on the Christmas tree for decoration, Suzuki kan get them back after Christmas.
Thank you very much for your help, looking back I sort off had the answer in the first post. By saying (it sounds like it is only running on 2 cyl)
The sound from the exhaust must have been unburnd fuel ignited in the muffler. The sound is no more.
May the force be with you