Checking the key....

[cosmic_splatter]

Fixkick,

I put some torque on the crank bolt to try to remove it and check the key. I have the car in 5th gear, but it moved almost 20 degrees. I believe the tires were starting to slide a bit. I stopped since the bolt was not budging.

Should I make more of an effort to remove the bolt or just check the torque and leave it be?

I'm assuming that if you take the timing belt off, that you should not be messing with this bolt since cam and crank will not be moving together?

thanks,
John

[Vitalie]

Use a breaker bar 1/2in. It helps. I got the front wheels on the ramps and the rear on the ground. I was pulling hard that I had a feeling at some point that I might break the engine or transmission but it did give in eventually. A good leverage is the key. Do it from the bottom you have more room.
Good luck.

[cosmic_splatter]

Just so I'm not thinking crazy, this is a clockwise to loosen bolt since it's right handed threads. Correct?

[Vitalie]

The bolt is a RIGHT HAND TREAD. "righty tighty lefty loosy" for noobs...

That is a quote fro here http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/pulley_off.html

[cosmic_splatter]

Ok. I was thinking this was a reverse thread. Give me the dummy award!

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If the crank seal is bad, do I need a gear puller to get that gear off?

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I'm not sure I have one here at families house.

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I see fixkick has some ideas on removing the cog...
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/damage/index.html#Parts

[Vitalie]

Be careful don't pry it with a screw driver like I did as you can damage it. I am not sure if 95 is the same as 98 but it has attacked the crank sensor "gear".What I did I took the center 17mm bolt off. Then I put the pulley back on on couple of bolts half way and used the pulley like a slide hammer. It worked very well. Hold some cloth in front of it because when it gives in you might hit the radiator if you didn't take it off already. Just Be precautions.

[cosmic_splatter]

I don't read anything about using blue loctite on the crank bolt. Should some be used here? The tsb just says to torque it.

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Here's a pic of a 95 Crank Bolt...

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Timing Belt...old one didn't look too bad.

[fixkick]

the bolt can in fact take 200 ft./lbs to remove (turned, left, counter clockwise)
100 (94) is stock torque, and when there for long time it sticks a bit. that is normal. and whats there who know? the factory used no locktite, and most kicks are on the 3rd belt or 4th
by now and is not factory set.
it was at 50 lbs, out the factory and then 94 staring in year 1996. TSB upgrade
if that tight , leave it. if the seal leaks it must come off.
the photos show timed correctly , best i can tell.
last guy might have used an impact gun(bad) and its set way too tight.


my page shows the tool i made. the bottom cog , when like new fits tight. (ive only seen 1 like that, a joy to see, something fit right)


here is my home made tool to easy the cog off. see 1996+ tone wheel teeth, yours will not have teeth, this is a OBD2 requirement.
CL= center line,

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phase 2 step 6

http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16-fast-belt-install.html


i have page , linked above. the a dedicated 17mm bolt , page.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/pulley_off.html