Is it worth keeping?

[drrhein]

I have this 95 SK JLX I've had almost since new. It was garaged for most of its life and the body and interior are perfect. I gave it to my daughter for college 7 years ago when it had 90k on it and I had done all maintenance, including the timing belt. Fast forward to today, I got it back, it now has 170k on it and NO maintenance has been done. I'm guessing the timing belt has 110k on it now (ouch?) Also, the car idles very low and when the AC or a big electrical load comes on the RPM drops down to a few hundred RPM and shakes if in gear, so perhaps the ECU is in fallback mode although it's throwing no codes. Gas mileage is probably around 15 or so (EGR?)

I'm leaning toward checking the compression and if that's ok, doing the timing belt and going after why the car is in fallback -- However, is it worth it on a 170k engine? Am I on borrowed time with the 16V head and the auto tranny at this mileage?

Should I mention that I really like this car and it's the only one I have with four seats.

Dennis

[fixkick]

if the belt slips , that happens.
compression test is first. always. 150 PSI or more is normal.

170K is 1/2 the life.
did she change oil in engine, or run it for 100k with your oil 7years old, that be some record.

the belt is $20

the bad idle is ECU in failsafe or engine power low, or engine misfiring, or ISC stuck.

15mpg is horrid.

is car 2door or 4. and is it 4wd, and 4speed auto>

is the CEL glowing key on
then goes out running?

[drrhein]

if the belt slips , that happens. What is the symptom of a slipped belt?
compression test is first. always. 150 PSI or more is normal.

Ok, I'll do that first, also while I have the rad and stuff off that's probably a good time to check EGR stuff

170K is 1/2 the life. Good to know!
did she change oil in engine, or run it for 100k with your oil 7years old, that be some record.

No she changed the oil.

the belt is $20

the bad idle is ECU in failsafe or engine power low, or engine misfiring, or ISC stuck. If I crank up the idle a bit it runs fine so I don't think it's misfiring.

Yeah, I figured something like that, the ECU isn't controlling the idle.

15mpg is horrid.

is car 2door or 4. and is it 4wd, and 4speed auto> 4 door 4X4 auto

is the CEL glowing key on
then goes out running? Nope. No CEL, no codes, light is good because comes on before start.
[/quote]

[fixkick]

and if you insert the diagnostic jumper the Cel flashes 12s ? running, oops sorry RAD is out. later.
good, not in backup mode. (ECU sick)

good oil changes, i bet its in good SHAPE STILL., very good, that. ok, compression
the good belts do last about 100k. Gates do.
less in hot deserts; etc.

If compression is good, all else is a joy. easy stuff.
your car engine must be 16valve matching 4doors. (heavy)

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nice car any car rust free is cool. car.

[drrhein]

and if you insert the diagnostic jumper the Cel flashes 12s ? running, oops sorry RAD is out. later.
good, not in backup mode. (ECU sick)

good oil changes, i bet its in good SHAPE STILL., very good, that. ok, compression
the good belts do last about 100k. Gates do.
less in hot deserts; etc.

If compression is good, all else is a joy. easy stuff.
your car engine must be 16valve matching 4doors. (heavy)

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nice car any car rust free is cool. car.

Yep, Flashes 12s, runs fine albeit a bit underpowered, It's been gone so long I don't remember if it's always been that way. It will go beyond 4500 rpm so I'm fairly sure it's not in backup mode, maybe Failsafe mode.

I found your tips on sensors and after the belt is done I'll go through them. I sure wish there was a sure fire way to easily tell of the ECU has gone to Failsafe.

[fixkick]

the only ways to prove it are.
1: scan tool, from rhinoman. wins top of list awards for best ever try.
2: CEL glows, running or has DTC's stored (not yours, it passes this test)
3: The ECU is lost. The ECU can get lost if it don't now what to do, to get Fueling right. It will show Closed loop dead, and LTFT and STFT parameters (called PIDS today) are DEAD (lifeless)
4: low fuel mileage, (15 is very low) due to 02 sensor dead, if the o2 is dead, the ECU is lost. and there are ways to prove, this.
5: RPM cap (no)
6: retarded timing, the strobe light fails to go past 40 degrees. racing in neutral, (neutral is zero load and advance is most extreme, no load and is best test for this)
7: top cause of getting lost are, too high fuel pressure, or exhaust air leaks near oxy sensor or bad oxy sensor. , or a very weak or very dirty MAF or ECT not hitting 300 ohms hot.

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this is the 16valve right> G16B with 4 injectors ,right?
on 16v any of the 16 injectors leaking or clogged , fully or in part will make the ECU get lost.

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it is very hard to work blind, no scan tool, lots of hard work.

[drrhein]

the only ways to prove it are.
1: scan tool, from rhinoman. wins top of list awards for best ever try.
2: CEL glows, running or has DTC's stored (not yours, it passes this test)
3: The ECU is lost. The ECU can get lost if it don't now what to do, to get Fueling right. It will show Closed loop dead, and LTFT and STFT parameters (called PIDS today) are DEAD (lifeless)
4: low fuel mileage, (15 is very low) due to 02 sensor dead, if the o2 is dead, the ECU is lost. and there are ways to prove, this.
5: RPM cap (no)
6: retarded timing, the strobe light fails to go past 40 degrees. racing in neutral, (neutral is zero load and advance is most extreme, no load and is best test for this)
7: top cause of getting lost are, too high fuel pressure, or exhaust air leaks near oxy sensor or bad oxy sensor. , or a very weak or very dirty MAF or ECT not hitting 300 ohms hot.

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this is the 16valve right> G16B with 4 injectors ,right?
on 16v any of the 16 injectors leaking or clogged , fully or in part will make the ECU get lost.


Yes, it's the 95.5 16 Valve California with pipe 51 in the EGR circuit. Now that you mention it, the O2 sensor was due at 100k but the car wasn't here then so I'm guessing that didn't get done either. I was just checking where the EGR main valve was and noticed a lot of oil on the back of the engine and new sealant around the valve cover. Called my daughter and she said it was leaking so bad that a local redid the cover. I'd bet the dizzy O-rings needed doing too.

Right now I think when I get parts the order will be:

1. Check Compression (if it's bad off to plan B - sell car)
2. TB and water pump plus dizzy O-rings
3. Wires, plugs and O2 sensor
4. EGR clean/test
5. IAC clean/test
6. might as well check the MAF and TPS sensors before I button it all up.
7. Reset the idle and test. If things are still bad I'll go to plan C (I have no idea what that might be)

[fixkick]

got this, or bad end exh collector donut? (2 bolt is donut , 3 is flat gasket)


bad news this.




if i had my 91 still , id have the rhinoman tool (cable adaptor)

i think the cable is on back order. pre prev, post here.

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this level of crack did not effect my 02
but it would soon.

the bottom of mine was donut ring gasket and leaked like a sieve.

[drrhein]

Ok, did some work this weekend. First off the IAC is dead, fails ohms test nothing happens when 12v is applied.
That probably accounts for idle issue.

The compressions were: 175,160 (below minimum),170,170 all came up to 190s with a dab of oil. To me it looks like valves are ok. rings #2 aren't too good.
max difference between highest and lowest is 15 psi (slightly over the limit). And belt probably hasn't slipped. Plugs are dry, nice and grey and gapped at .038, I took em back to .030.

I did forget to open the throttle when checking so I don't know if that impacts the readings and maybe they would have read higher if I had the throttle open.

Right now my thinking is that I'll go ahead and replace the IAC (got a good one at junk yard for $67) and timing belt and WP and see how it goes.

What do you all think? Is it worth keeping?

[gorkyb]

Hello drrhein, I've also done compression tests without WOT by accident and it did affect the reading. I would follow the procedure down to the t before you make any conclusions, just to be sure.

I also had a bad ISC and it drove me around in circles for a couple of months, so replacing this with a good one will help you a lot I'm sure.

Don't just give up on your rust free (I'm jealous) Trackick!