93' Sidekick 1.6 16v engine, no spark :(

[Francixco]

Hello friends, I have a sidekick engine installed in my Suzuki Samurai, it ran well, but it started with starting problems, it was difficult, until finally it no longer starts, there is no spark from the coil, the distributor is 3 pins, Check and power reaches the distributor, white wire 0.03v (cmp), blue wire almost 12v, and black the ground, 12v reaches the coil, I tested the coil with a direct wire to a spark plug and there is no spark, any advice? What else could it be?

Greetings from Chile

[fixkick]

the 1st question on any kind FrankenSammy is how did the wiring from named engine sidekick land in the sammy

the 3 engines have totally different electrics. for spark and fueling both , 2 side kick engines, and 1 sammy.
what year sidekick engine, is the sidekick 8v or 16valves. < 2 sidekick engines.
possible answers,
1: moved sidekick harness to sammy
2: made a DIY hand wired harness
3: bought those 3rd party harness kits.

I need year sammy told and year sidekick too. (or photo of engine)

[Francixco]

the 1st question on any kind FrankenSammy is how did the wiring from named engine sidekick land  in the sammy

the 3 engines have totally different electrics.  for spark and fueling both    , 2 side kick engines, and 1 sammy. 
what year sidekick engine, is the sidekick 8v or 16valves.  < 2 sidekick engines.
possible answers,
1: moved sidekick harness to sammy
2: made a DIY hand wired harness
3: bought those 3rd party harness kits.

I need year sammy told and year sidekick too.  (or photo of engine)

[Francixco]

https://files.fm/f/z569h6xnva this is the engine

[fixkick]

https://files.fm/f/z569h6xnva this is the engine

so you bought it Frankensammi like this 
then it fails out of the blue? was not dead bought .
93 16v.  


or did it your self , all that custom wiring.? (my guess is you do not know how it got like this) right?  (the franken part is that)

one way to fix it, is start at the DIZZY wiring, and 93 only, if is. 93 DIzzy  there.
with the  diszzy cap off.  the rotor turns CCW cranked, counter clock wise on all 16v.

vast G16B engines the cam  belt is slipped or snapped. 60,000 miles and bingo, snapped.


so off the cap, 93 Dizzy,  it has its own coil on the firewall and ignitor too and  a lost? supressor? thumb sized?
the coil pack on the fire wall is checked for spark first,  if dead we work back a from there,  


we crank the engine and the rotor spins does it.? CCW



then at TDC 0deg, #1 firing the rotor tipo  aligns with  cap #1 spark HV wire.

if not came belt slipped or the dizzy installed all wrong

ok still no spark at coil.
first see my horsed up 15v spark page



https://fixkick.com/ECU/92-95MPI-eng-sch...e-huge.png

see the 3 DIZZY wire (low voltage connector)
1 is ground ,
1 is power 12vdc from main relay and fuse 24 not blown.(FI FUSE MARKED) IG-coil  fuse not blown or coil is dead.
1 is ECU signal, from DIZZY CMP to ECU  to makes spark

the CMP signal is just a square wave,  and easy to see on any analog DC, needle meter. the needle jumps as you crank
from 0v to 5v to 0v and repeats as you crank if not , the 12vdc is not present on the dizzy key on.
now lets say CMP does work
the ECU sees it toggle and now generates spark using the IGNITOR ( a huge transistor in a cube)
the ECU charges the coil fully primary and releases it and makes spark at the coil directly
ecu pin A14 does that
if the supressor module, is missing all fueling ends and the cluster tachometer is now dead too

that is it for spark.  coil HV dead. just 3 tests to find cause.
CMP dead at B3
A4 dead?
A8 not dead
coil plus lug not dead, 12vdc is correct
coil minus must pulse or IGNITOR IS DEAD.

in this order tested.

the CMP sensor must work. there is no CKP to fail here. CKP is 1996 up.
this is the CMP firing on mine.  0v ,5v repeats as I crank. if dead the cam belt snapped is the #1 cause on all G16 to die. #1


my scope now 50 years old still works. 1974 model.. 100MHz it is. I calibrated mine my hand.
a needle meter works here too. the signals are very slow. that why it works.
this is my oldest scope I have 2 others even one new.

the COIL Minus pin or Igniter to the coil Below

the low signal (0V)  is dwell coil charge time, and then released just after my word fire. , the huge  spike is EMF induction,(primary)
if this is dead, we must check igniter base pin next, if dead there, back to the Ecu WE GO




on any FrankenKicks the grounds are always suspected, and snapped timing belt.

[fixkick]

on more modern cars, if the timing is detected off too much it cuts spark too. (not just fuel)
this is to protect modern interference engines. <<< just something to know for future cars

my jeeps with DOHC even have special code for CMP <> CKP incongruent errors
this also now, prevents a flood or raw fuel to the cAT and not weaken it.
in 96 up cars we scan it first. and consider all errors seen.
my 96 car, Suzuki will run with no CKP plugged in , and other techs say NO Way, I then show them.
this 96, G16b CKP is only to rod the MISFIRE detection P030x and sure more accurate spark.
most cars spark ends if CKP dies. (or CMP)

[fixkick]

heck and power reaches the distributor, white wire 0.03v (cmp) , this is CMP you forgot to crank the engine, to see it toggle 0v>5v repeats
, blue wire almost 12v, this is battery FI fuse power and good key on.
and black the ground, 0v, this is good.
12v reaches the coil+ that means the IG coil fuse is not blown

the fire wall ground to IGNITOR must not fail. or the IGNORE stays asleep.


the full schematic is here for 1995, super close to yours

this gets all those details you do not know. real wiring ever bit shown

https://fixkick.com/power-elect/95%20ele...racker.pdf


G110 bad (ground)
then see page7 and 8.
the Dizzy is ground at G110. if bad no spark will ever happen.
the Igniter is just a transistor is shown there, GM did that nicely!
pin2 of spark coil must make it to the igniter
brn/wht wire.
pin 3 on the igniter is the ECU spark signal out to the igniter base pin.3 a 5v pulse

this is GMs pages but are the same. (Geo)

as you know one can do the test 3 ways , end point to starting or starting point to end or start in the middle testing .
on complex systems we start in the middle this car is simple.
or do the easy to reach stuff first.


what I do is find the easy spot to reach first, the lazy bum I am.
the igniter may be that place.
it has 3 pins, he coil side and base pin both pulse (12v pulse and 5v pulse respectively)
and pin is ground and 0v all the time cranking,
the tests are all cranking, only. tests.
if you do that we soon find the bad part or the direction of the failing signal easy

[fixkick]

THIS IS just some other causes
the ECU power pins all must be hot = 12vdc at ECU pins A12 AND a13 BOOTH HOT KEY ON.
all ECU ground pins good. g110 FOR SURE.
the stock car had a stock cluster and harness.
and key on the CEL lamp glows if not the ECU is dead (power missing) I guess the CEL was never wired up. Franken style.
THE WIRES FROM ecu AND TO DIZZY AND TO IGNITeR AND HV COIL AND SUPPRESSOR ALL MUST BE WIRed PER THE DRAWING

OR THE CAM BELT SNAPPED MAKING CMP DEAD. (asleep only)

[Francixco]

Hello!, thanks for the help, I tested the coil and the module, they are good, I'm going to see that the grounds are good, and I'll try it, some time ago I scanned it and it gave me an IAT failure, and this engine doesn't have it, strange..

[fixkick]

Hello!, thanks for the help, I tested the coil and the module, they are good, I'm going to see that the grounds are good, and I'll try it, some time ago I scanned it and it gave me an IAT failure, and this engine doesn't have it, strange..

no spark Recap
sure ground,
the IAT is not important did you know some 1993 have no IAT at all so  of using wrong 93 ECU (not really 93) it will show IAT missing
the IAT has zero to do with spark ever , only super find turning of Fuel rates.

the best test is using a $15 new or used, needle  analog multi meter, in DC VOLTS mode 20v scale  as seen here, see the needle>?
https://www.walmart.com/search?q=analog%...nalog%20mu

and measure the 3  pins of the IGNITER , to see if all 3 read correctly while cranking  a 2 man job sorry, cars are like that.
I use back-probing needles so see the 3 signals. on all cars,  (connectors)


testing. page 8 in FSM,  PDF above.

the 3 pins are
2= 0vdc,  ground black /blue wire,  this most not wiggle.

1=  brown-white,  pulses 12v 0v, 12v repeats , this fires the spark coil via induction method.

3 = base transistor input, OraNGE,  If not pulsing the ECU is dead or CMP is dead

so if pin 3 fails we check the CMP pin for pulsing now. at Distributor pin called CMP out.

that is all you need to find dead spark, if not caused by other pins on ECU dead, (power and ground)

the coil too can be bad, and if say primary open then 12vdc does not reach pin 1 above at all.
the igniter charges the HV coil then release it to make 15,000 volts or more on the spark plugs. (induction coil it is)

that is it, but the results of any test failing is a new path to follow  more  tests.

focus on the Igniter is best. (at arms level it is )