Help identify c53. part capacity Samurai ECM 33920-B0C70

[kangu78]

Hi 
If someone can help discover capacity missing part c53 .That will be great.

ECM is from suzuki Samurai part. no 33920-B0C70 bord number is E331A973A

Thanks

[fixkick]

Hi 
If someone can help discover capacity missing part c53 .That will be great.

ECM is from suzuki Samurai part. no 33920-B0C70 bord number is E331A973A

Thanks

well that is easy
that cap love to fail and are best and cheap at mouser.com 105C temp spec

it cover this on my ecu page fully
i will  now quote my page

[*]LOW ESR or Low impedance (both mean the same) Nichicon UPJ is the best. (IMO) (impedance , is A.C resistance)
[*]Higher voltage is ok, , 47uf is same as 50uf. ( if you go too high in volts, the top of cap may hit the ECU lid, so be careful)
[*]Highest range of temperature, is the most important in cars. -55 to +105C is best


Here is the most common cap to fail (pre 1996 cars) is high temperature rated use 56uf/63vdc.  [url=http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/_/N-75hqtZscv7?P=1z0wqufZ1z0z7l5Z1yyc4mbZ1z0vhz5&Keyword=nichicon&FS=True][/url] (the original might be 50uf and volts 50v)
RADIAL caps (bottom pins.
near 50UF
near or over 50vdc rated
105C
and top brands not from noname china.

a whopping, hold your hat  79cents

https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Component...+V&FS=True

my page is 14 year old now, ouch time flies.

https://fixkick.com/ecu

the cap is brute force power filter, cap, to keep cars NOISE (elect) out of ECU and worse the ECU VRM.
low ESR is best.

[kangu78]

Thanks werry much but I need to know about the smd blown parts near c53 .Your knowlege is big about this ECM and if You can tell me it is important part or not . Thanks any way

[fixkick]

Thanks very much but I need to know about the smd blown parts near c53 .Your knowlege is big about this ECM and if You can tell me it is important part or not . Thanks any way

nobody knows this, 100 of ECU and not same in all countries, and some are radically different. vast ECU made for all countries, and there smog laws too, different.



smd

well the boric acid from C53 leaked and wrecked that and does happen but more rare



try 0.1uf at 50v.  (NOT POLARIZED LIKE c53)

nobody has schematics, zero. for sure all of them zero.



or buy a spare ecu and read top of SMD cap and use SMD cap decoder easy to find uf.



sammi did your read my ecu page

did you  read the slide show for sammi

https://fixkick.com/ecu

then slide show 30 photos mixed all USA> we are there,  and vitara ECU not thee same nor any sammi made  up to 1995 , what year is yours?



frame 6

https://fixkick.com/ECU/hell/html/image_6.html



this is all I have on sammi, they are very rare now here, not seen one on the ROAD here in 10 years, I see side kick 1 time per month here ON THE public roads.


 ah my ERROR I zoomed your photo and C53 is SMD
and that cap filters the high frequency noses on the car 12vdc power (igniton on) bus.
50vdc is spec, or more.  car power can do huge spike up to there, for sure AC clutch  noise HUGE< if have AC, and spark noise too.
0.1uf or more.  0.2 or tad higher but no too high or will not fit on SMD pads.  this ECU does not have LDO VRMs, low dropout, so can fail with excess noise easy.




ecu page( handy link)

https://fixkick.com/ecu



good luck. on fixing any old ECU.   all the big caps are no good, (electrolytic) this old if still are.
 here is a link to 1 smd

[fixkick]

https://www.mouser.com/Passive-Component...usZ1yx4avu


29 cents, 0.1uf , 63vdc, may fit read the length spec, IEA code is,

.1 uf is 100nF
or code 104. up to 224 cap codes will work , fit is what matters
and I can not measure you cap length with my calipers
the caps come in 7 different SMD lengths per data sheet there,

what I do is find the max space pad to pad, and get the highest uf that can do the span (space)
hand solders is way way more easy than machine, so it can be as wide as the PC pads allow. no problem

this is in the data sheet and wise

KEMET only recommends wave soldering of EIA 0603, 0805 and 1206 case sizes.
the first one for 0.1 uf size code 805

this 1206 may fit

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEM...5PiA%3D%3D

best is using a real caliper measuring tool end to end on SMD burned, in mm is ok
the 1206 3.2mm long fits pad 5.6mm and any larger cap fits 5.6mm pads easy if hand soldered. with flux.

measure you cap,? length.

[fixkick]

those black RUBICONS love to leak every one I say did , but one, new no box 20 years old
in car the cab hits 200F easy in hot sun.. not good for electrics that. caps, or batteries.
only buy 105C caps. not 85c ever. for c108 , use Nichicon, top brand Japan engineered best. IMO

[fixkick]

YOUR 100UF IS OK THAT HIGH BUT I DO NOT TRUST MAKER, RUBICONS.
LIKE IN "100 TIMES BURNED 2000 TIMES SHY?" OR BURN ME ONCE SHAME ON YOU OR BURN ME 2 TIMES SHAM ON ME ! (sorry old jokes,, love them)
THE OLD CAPS DID SUCK BIG TIME THEN UP TO 2008 (WIKI CAP PLAGUE AND CRY) (china clones caps from big makers and fails, hard, like train wreck for years)
REAL JAPAN CAPS ARE BEST, FROM TOP MAKERS NOT CLONES OR COUNTERFEIT OR CHINA NONAME CAPS.
THE LIFE IS 20 YEARS ON THE CAPS, SO GETTING THE BEST ONES, IS BIG WIN.
electrolytic caps are the weak point in the electronic chain so buy the best ones. only, for longer life span , no TOW home experiences wanted, ever.

there are lots of top brands sold at Mouser.com, never seen them list / ship garbage ever, (as seen on ebay or amazon or PRICE scalpers charging $5 for a 69 cent part)
same too good, DIGIKEY.com both good, but I love MOUSER< I can make up BOM's there build lists. and share them. nice.

the SMD chip is only comple for the 5 or 6 physical sizes, I'd used a caliper to measure my space on the PCB and not get an SMD to long. and not allow tack on soldering. or buy the 3 sizes there?) for 0.1uf 50v to 65v.