Wits End....ready to crush it-(96 Tracker miss)

[[email protected]]

If anyone can help, I'd prolly send you a case of beer (if you are of age)....

So I inherited a '96 Tracker (1.6L, 16v) from my father in law.  One owner but years ago it over heated or something terrible went wrong with it and he decided to try and fix it himself.  He dis-assembled the head and there it sat in his garage for 10+ years.  Recently his health declined and I decided to try and revive her....Little did I know what I was getting myself into.  

Here we are 6 months later and still do not have a 100% running vehicle.

I bought a brand new long block from Autozone and pieced it back together.  It was in about 100 pieces in his garage.

Now its got a miss on all cylinders and is running way too rich.  I tried everything I can think of....

It has new:

Fuel injectors (2 sets actually)
New fuel regulator
New temp sensor
Tried a distributor off another Tracker (used)
Tried a MAF sensor off another Tracker (used)
New Radiator
New battery
New fuel pump-the fuel tank was completely gummed up, I removed the tank, cleaned it, replaced the filter.  


I've set the timing a dozen times (set it to base timing using the connector at the front of the vehicle)
Check the timing belt alignment from the factory
Checked fuel pressure-30 or so and goes up when vacuum is pinched

Ive given up and taken it to two different shops even and I never use shops unless something needs special equipment like an alignment.....one charged me a boat load to replace the intake gasket they claimed was the problem (which slightly helped) and the second is scratching their heads at this point after checking everything I have.

The return fuel line was blocked for awhile with debris which I fixed (removed fuel line and cleared).....

I'm ready to give up on it at this point.....but have dumped too much $$$ to do so.

I even have a used ECU coming but I do not think its going to help.  

This thing should run purr like a kitten!

Any one have any suggestions?  It randomly misses on all cylinders at idle (800 RPM).

[fixkick]

If anyone can help, I'd prolly send you a case of beer (if you are of age)....72yo.

So I inherited a '96 Tracker (1.6L, 16v) from my father in law.  One owner but years ago it over heated or something terrible went wrong with it and he decided to try and fix it himself.  He dis-assembled the head and there it sat in his garage for 10+ years.  Recently his health declined and I decided to try and revive her....Little did I know what I was getting myself into.  

Here we are 6 months later and still do not have a 100% running vehicle.

I bought a brand new long block from Autozone and pieced it back together.  It was in about 100 pieces in his garage.

Now its got a miss on all cylinders and is running way too rich.  I tried everything I can think of....

It has new:

Fuel injectors (2 sets actually)
New fuel regulator
New temp sensor
Tried a distributor off another Tracker (used)
Tried a MAF sensor off another Tracker (used)
New Radiator
New battery
New fuel pump-the fuel tank was completely gummed up, I removed the tank, cleaned it, replaced the filter.  


I've set the timing a dozen times (set it to base timing using the connector at the front of the vehicle)
Check the timing belt alignment from the factory
Checked fuel pressure-30 or so and goes up when vacuum is pinched

Ive given up and taken it to two different shops even and I never use shops unless something needs special equipment like an alignment.....one charged me a boat load to replace the intake gasket they claimed was the problem (which slightly helped) and the second is scratching their heads at this point after checking everything I have.

The return fuel line was blocked for awhile with debris which I fixed (removed fuel line and cleared).....

I'm ready to give up on it at this point.....but have dumped too much $$$ to do so.

I even have a used ECU coming but I do not think its going to help.  

This thing should run purr like a kitten!

Any one have any suggestions?  It randomly misses on all cylinders at idle (800 RPM).


m

most of these cars fail ECU for bad caps.
some  leak acid, other look perfect but are dry in inside and are dead at 0uF.
those bad makes ECU reboot constantly and that will misfire

why think the distributor is not bad.  pr bad sparkl coil inside it., or or rare, cmp bad inside it too. or bad ground under hood. all.
not scanning the ECU, looking for  p03xx codes,  as engine misfires  is huge missed (no pun)  clue not looking.

sure spark plugs, HV wire sets new, sure gapped at 0.028" and NEVER out of the box 0.045" dead wrong.

that is all I can think of

02 sensor ok front, not stuck at 0v with cracked #4 exhaust tube header, stock does that.

EGR not sticking open. (at idle)
misfires hot and cold, ? or at idle, or accel or wot "?

the question is , does spark misfire or is it fuel mix wrong gross when it misfires.
first see if it is spark scan it.

good  luck to you

[[email protected]]

If anyone can help, I'd prolly send you a case of beer (if you are of age)....72yo.

So I inherited a '96 Tracker (1.6L, 16v) from my father in law.  One owner but years ago it over heated or something terrible went wrong with it and he decided to try and fix it himself.  He dis-assembled the head and there it sat in his garage for 10+ years.  Recently his health declined and I decided to try and revive her....Little did I know what I was getting myself into.  

Here we are 6 months later and still do not have a 100% running vehicle.

I bought a brand new long block from Autozone and pieced it back together.  It was in about 100 pieces in his garage.

Now its got a miss on all cylinders and is running way too rich.  I tried everything I can think of....

It has new:

Fuel injectors (2 sets actually)
New fuel regulator
New temp sensor
Tried a distributor off another Tracker (used)
Tried a MAF sensor off another Tracker (used)
New Radiator
New battery
New fuel pump-the fuel tank was completely gummed up, I removed the tank, cleaned it, replaced the filter.  


I've set the timing a dozen times (set it to base timing using the connector at the front of the vehicle)
Check the timing belt alignment from the factory
Checked fuel pressure-30 or so and goes up when vacuum is pinched

Ive given up and taken it to two different shops even and I never use shops unless something needs special equipment like an alignment.....one charged me a boat load to replace the intake gasket they claimed was the problem (which slightly helped) and the second is scratching their heads at this point after checking everything I have.

The return fuel line was blocked for awhile with debris which I fixed (removed fuel line and cleared).....

I'm ready to give up on it at this point.....but have dumped too much $$$ to do so.

I even have a used ECU coming but I do not think its going to help.  

This thing should run purr like a kitten!

Any one have any suggestions?  It randomly misses on all cylinders at idle (800 RPM).


m

most of these cars fail ECU for bad caps.
some  leak acid, other look perfect but are dry in inside and are dead at 0uF.
those bad makes ECU reboot constantly and that will misfire

why think the distributor is not bad.  pr bad sparkl coil inside it., or or rare, cmp bad inside it too. or bad ground under hood. all.
not scanning the ECU, looking for  p03xx codes,  as engine misfires  is huge missed (no pun)  clue not looking.

sure spark plugs, HV wire sets new, sure gapped at 0.028" and NEVER out of the box 0.045" dead wrong.

that is all I can think of

02 sensor ok front, not stuck at 0v with cracked #4 exhaust tube header, stock does that.

EGR not sticking open. (at idle)
misfires hot and cold, ? or at idle, or accel or wot "?

the question is , does spark misfire or is it fuel mix wrong gross when it misfires.
first see if it is spark scan it.

good  luck to you

Yeah, it did have a P0300 code-General misfire....not much help there....

EGR was checked (the first shop said it was ok)

It's got new plugs gapped correctly-Ive had to take them out 10x and clean them off due to the misfire and the wires are also brand new.

The original distributor was clearly left out in some weather as it had signs of rust on it.  I put a new cap/rotor on it and cleaned it as best I could.  For this reason that is why I tried one I got at the bone yard....it ran the same on either.

O2 sensor seems to be tracking correctly as far as voltages....second shop told me that.....


Yeah, I agree that I'm not positive if:

     -Its running rich because of spark
    Or
    It's misfiring because of too much fuel

My gut (and both shops) says it's too much fuel.

Ive also wondered if when the fuel return line was blocked and the pressure was too high if it damaged injectors....I don't know if that's even possible 

Lastly, seems like the misfire is worse at low RPM and it runs much better over 2k....

[fixkick]

If anyone can help, I'd prolly send you a case of beer (if you are of age)....72yo.

So I inherited a '96 Tracker (1.6L, 16v) from my father in law.  One owner but years ago it over heated or something terrible went wrong with it and he decided to try and fix it himself.  He dis-assembled the head and there it sat in his garage for 10+ years.  Recently his health declined and I decided to try and revive her....Little did I know what I was getting myself into.  

Here we are 6 months later and still do not have a 100% running vehicle.

I bought a brand new long block from Autozone and pieced it back together.  It was in about 100 pieces in his garage.

Now its got a miss on all cylinders and is running way too rich.  I tried everything I can think of....

It has new:

Fuel injectors (2 sets actually)
New fuel regulator
New temp sensor
Tried a distributor off another Tracker (used)
Tried a MAF sensor off another Tracker (used)
New Radiator
New battery
New fuel pump-the fuel tank was completely gummed up, I removed the tank, cleaned it, replaced the filter.  


I've set the timing a dozen times (set it to base timing using the connector at the front of the vehicle)
Check the timing belt alignment from the factory
Checked fuel pressure-30 or so and goes up when vacuum is pinched

Ive given up and taken it to two different shops even and I never use shops unless something needs special equipment like an alignment.....one charged me a boat load to replace the intake gasket they claimed was the problem (which slightly helped) and the second is scratching their heads at this point after checking everything I have.

The return fuel line was blocked for awhile with debris which I fixed (removed fuel line and cleared).....

I'm ready to give up on it at this point.....but have dumped too much $$$ to do so.

I even have a used ECU coming but I do not think its going to help.  

This thing should run purr like a kitten!

Any one have any suggestions?  It randomly misses on all cylinders at idle (800 RPM).


m

most of these cars fail ECU for bad caps.
some  leak acid, other look perfect but are dry in inside and are dead at 0uF.
those bad makes ECU reboot constantly and that will misfire

why think the distributor is not bad.  pr bad sparkl coil inside it., or or rare, cmp bad inside it too. or bad ground under hood. all.
not scanning the ECU, looking for  p03xx codes,  as engine misfires  is huge missed (no pun)  clue not looking.

sure spark plugs, HV wire sets new, sure gapped at 0.028" and NEVER out of the box 0.045" dead wrong.

that is all I can think of

02 sensor ok front, not stuck at 0v with cracked #4 exhaust tube header, stock does that.

EGR not sticking open. (at idle)
misfires hot and cold, ? or at idle, or accel or wot "?

the question is , does spark misfire or is it fuel mix wrong gross when it misfires.
first see if it is spark scan it.

good  luck to you

Yeah, it did have a P0300 code-General misfire....not much help there....

EGR was checked (the first shop said it was ok)

It's got new plugs gapped correctly-Ive had to take them out 10x and clean them off due to the misfire and the wires are also brand new.

The original distributor was clearly left out in some weather as it had signs of rust on it.  I put a new cap/rotor on it and cleaned it as best I could.  For this reason that is why I tried one I got at the bone yard....it ran the same on either.

O2 sensor seems to be tracking correctly as far as voltages....second shop told me that.....


Yeah, I agree that I'm not positive if:

     -Its running rich because of spark
    Or
    It's misfiring because of too much fuel

My gut (and both shops) says it's too much fuel.

Ive also wondered if when the fuel return line was blocked and the pressure was too high if it damaged injectors....I don't know if that's even possible 

Lastly, seems like the misfire is worse at low RPM and it runs much better over 2k....

bad fuel wrecked the old injectors. AND THE return line  plugged and with that plugged, PSI is 60PSI and goes rich as hell. like that.
the injectors foul out and go lean , WITH BAD FUEL.
the injectors have 10 micron, sized screens inside that pack up when fuel is bad. (4 times smaller this than then the fuel filter size, media inside)

P0300 is useful, it means all 4 cylinder ar misfiring , via bad spark  or bad fueling, ( not just one cylinder failing all 4 do)
A good shop can use there spark scope to see why, the spark  plugs make  a plasma resistance when fired.  this reading shows  to key factors.
1: SPARKS IS GOOD OR DEAD (MISFIRED)' or not.
2: OR SPARK IS GOOD BUT THE PLASMA IS WRONG, (MEANS FUELING ISSUES)
i can only assume  spark plugs are J plugs stock not some wild useless surface fire plugs. of any kind, just on gap there. not 2,3,4 worse true surface fire  plugs.
try mag-wires , NGK, or BOSCH , mag wire set,  these are best on low energy susuki spark systems, (weak)

a lean engine makes high resistance plasma  , too rich is low resistance.  (learn burn verses rich burn)

The 1996 has CKP  SENSOR ON FRONT OF ENGINE CRANK PULLEY. this must be for the Sidekick trackers not other suzuki G15b like seen on ESTEEMs,etc.
when you buy an engine the bottom crank cog is viewed by eyeball, is  a CKP tone wheel and must be for your exact car, or it will misfire.

300 mean also it is not single cyclinder failing, nor are all 4 spark wires bad,
but is bad spark coil, sure. or 4 bad injectors.
or bad ECU.
You changed the distributor.
and new FPR used, this is a very important device,  and fails dead with returned line clogged,  and must be tested at key on idle both, for correct spec pressure.
This device keeps pressure correct so the injectors can not under flow or overflow and also the ECU assumes this is correct the ECU does not know true fuel pressure,
so the ECU uses fuel tables based on FPR working perfectly, at all times.  key on 36psi, idle is 30psi on my 96.  the 6psi drop is NOT optional.


did the mech check to see if the hot engine runs in closed loop at idle?????? it must, and if does not is fixed first.

if spark checks out and fuel pressure checks out.
we then assume sensors are bad.
we know compression is good, 180PSI
we know the vacuum at idle is about 19inches, and that vacuum is not acting backwards at the throttle with clogged CAt.
we know the engine is good, not just that it rebuilt, we test it. (assuming things are good, is not bad, best is to prove it)
the EGR not stuck open, nor vacuum hoses routed wrong. to it.
The O2 front sensor swings, at hot idle this is called closed loop operations. and  it must do that. (exhaust cracks near by cause super rich misfire)
CKP not off some lame,  ESTEEM G16B , hopeless this and makes the ECU go quite MAD.
bad inejector from bad fuel, are reverse ultrasonic cleaned, to make the screens clean and all parts inside the injectors clean.
a good shop knows how to do and injector leak down test. 1 by 1 on car, it is trick but proves all 4 flow the same rate on car,  a skill some shops do not know.
a bad ECU, bad caps, lid off see that large corner Can shaped CAP,  they leak green acid when bad (some) other crack or blow the bottom rubber out and leak
ECU love to fail on this car 1989 to 95 more often, but some have the Rubicon caps there, known to fail. black color.

rebuilt engine horrors
wrong CKP sensor tone wheel COG ( please click me and see wrong , !)
or put in a oil pan gasket this is dead wrong 96 up as this makes the CKP dead or misfires, super super bad.
a real engine the Pan is RTV glued on in the factory and that puts the CKP mag tip very close to the tone wheel, spoke tips if this is wrong ,nothing but bad happens.
or the engine is OMG, 1995 (92-95) and has no CKP port in the oil pump casing at ALL , omg its MISSING, derp builders.

P0300 only means the combustion pressure was way too weak on all 4 , at random. nothing else , spark or fuel caused or EGR stuck open.(or cam belt slipped)

driving a car with scan tool scanning  is best,  not just looking at history for stored DTCs, we drive and scan and OMG there are other codes that fail or show up  in PENDINGS
and gee are the real problem. Live errors are best seen,  stored errors are subject to the rules of driving cycles. 2 or 3 to see stored.

and scan the O2 sensor. it must swing fast , at hot idle and light cruise. (right foot steady say 40mph, but not at WOT ever is there closed loop)
Live data scans are best to see all things all sensors actions to see what might be going on,  that no code reader made can do. 

is the  #4 exhaust manifold cracked like this.

RECAP:
we still are stuck at  

• bad spark (but 2nd distrib , no cure) or
  
• bad fueling , the FPR is new you said. fuel pressure reg.  and 30psi idle , 36psi just key on, turn key 3 times on to get full pressure 36)
  
• even a bad ECU ( bad caps are 99% of all caused for bad here... super common)
  
• or wrong CKP and friends, (pan gaskets are not allowed.  gasket makers are liars !!!! 96+)
  
• or injectors need reverse flow cleaned. Ultra sonic does that) bad fuel, has the bad habit of wrecking all injectors replaced, until all things to the rear of FPR are very  clean. even a new tank put in, is done or sent out for pro cleaning but if rusty inside the tank is useless.  (have NASA friend that cleans tanks with secret device, (ask) he invented. did my motorcycle.
  

O2 sensor fails closed loop tests;.  for lots of reasons. besides just it bad. front sensor ONLY. rear is only for cat tests. )no exhaust cracks allowed here)

injector leak down test not done to show all 4 flow the same, sadly we have 2 guys here all 4 were equally weak,  so passed the test and all 4 clogged 1/2 way, damn.
one guy modified the FPR to get full engine power with 1/2 clogged injectors. (we found it with FULL FPR testing)
bad fuel is never fun on any EFI car, never, .  for sure endless cycle of injector cleanings, most just put in a new tank and clean all fuel lines.

Pinching.
pinching the FPR vacuum hose can be a wrong test,  if locks in the last vacuum the FPR read. (the newer the FPR the more likely  to lock in, as in perfect diaphragm there)
the test is , remove FPR vacuum line and GOLF TEE the sucking hose.
now FPR goes from 30 psi and to 36 (or 6 more for sure) and this makes clogged injectors go way richer. and stops misfiring. (lean burn proved and even see closed loop happen at idle OMG, magic.)

there are lots more,  lots to fail
mine day 1(96 ), the main alum, induction AIR pipe, top of engine ,right rear mount, alum. mount cracked off and huge 1/2' gaping hole there, sucking air  LIKE MAD, making MAF near useless
see what can happen even simple does.

be sad no if all was good and ECU not, we check all things if all things good.
ECU bad.
there is no other way to test ECU ,besides plotting OBD2 full scans, and plot out all sensors readings.

here is one scan of vast.
shows my themastat is CRAP, old and slow as HELL ,fixed day1.
I tested all maf readings , NOT SEEN ALL BELOW JUST SOME;. WE DO THAT BECAUSE ANY ECU LIED TO FAILS. (GIGO) GARBAGE IN ,  GARBAGE OUT(INJECTIONS:?)
ECT
IAT
O2
MAF
TPS
VSS

[fixkick]

I DO FEEL SORRY FOR YOU plight.
for sure bad fuel , repeat 3 time , ouch
or bad ECU
or bad sensors or sensors gone wild for any reason, even bad connections, or ? thermally failing, at some temp. or exhaust leaks to 02. and more lots more.
the list of
a good engine
good fueling
good spark
all good sensors. and good ecu and good ecu actuators all.
bad grounds are a suzuki horror. for sure engine pulled, and grounds not put back right. or at all. (engine bay has many)

sadly it can be 2 things at the same time wrong. (my wild guess is spark is ok) so far.... only scope can prove it is. not much else, unless the spark strob light shows wild spark hits or at the wrong time.

[[email protected]]

Thanks for your reply and time.....lots to think about here.  Wish you were here although maybe you are near???

Anyhow couple followup items-

Yes, I fell for the damn "gasket on the oil pan" issue already and had to remove the front differential in order to re-do the oil pan.  This is the first vehicle that I've ever encountered that did not want a oil pan gasket....(which you are correct-it was included in the gasket set).  The crank position sensor is the original sensor so it should be correct however I didnt really look at the one that came with the long block too closely as I assumed it would be correct.....

Yes, in hindsight I would have replaced the fuel tank instead of trying to clean it....I used my pressure washer and got it pretty darn clean but obviously pretty hard to get it 100% clean.  One of the injectors was nearly 100% blocked and that cylinder was getting 0 fuel so that was why I replaced them all....but at that time I did not even think to check the return line so maybe I do have 4 bad injectors now but this is getting expensive....

As far as the wires/plugs-yeah they are (or were) new but I got them off Rockauto....cheap set.  At the time I didnt realize these Trackers had a crappy/goofy integral coil and never would have guessed this....

As far as the FPR-I actually did pull off the hose and blocked it with my thumb, not just pinched the vacuum line and it responded per your write up on the website.

I'll probably end up looking closer at the OBD scan data.  I have a cheap scan tool but didnt spend a whole lot of time looking at it.  I believe it did go into closed loop but am not 100% positive.  It does idle high until it warms up so I assumed it was (I even believe I saw that on the scanner but that seems like years ago now that I've been through all this other stuff and will have to do this again).

Grounds have been checked....I even ran a temporary ground from the battery to the block/chassis as a second check. 

I'll double check the exhaust manifolds and see if there are any cracks....


...or I may just crush the car and be done with it. 

[fixkick]

Thanks for your reply and time.....lots to think about here.  Wish you were here although maybe you are near???

Anyhow couple followup items-

Yes, I fell for the damn "gasket on the oil pan" issue already and had to remove the front differential in order to re-do the oil pan.  This is the first vehicle that I've ever encountered that did not want a oil pan gasket....(which you are correct-it was included in the gasket set).  The crank position sensor is the original sensor so it should be correct however I didnt really look at the one that came with the long block too closely as I assumed it would be correct.....
if you drove IT real far, and 3 times, with the oBD2 scan tool logging at least all DTC errors and CKP drops out it fails then clears fast,.  that is that very weak coil  CKP non hall sensor dropping out does,. and is not good ever,  warning on DTC some are hidden until you drive car 3 times. or do pendings  checks as you drive (2 man job or real scanner that can log to files) 
This is 2 wire shieldrf cable sensor,  CKP with very weak signals, 1v pulses and NO ELECTRONICS in the sensor, a coil of wire there.  (and a tiny fixed magnet?)
if this sensor fails P0300 codes 0 to 4 fail or even lie to you,  the ECU uses crankshaft velocity to find misfire, using only the CKP, the silly CAM sensor is too wiggly to do the famous misfire monitor.  1996 is the most dumb of all OBD2, and has weaknesses... even bugs.
The sensor is mounted to the pan flange, if sensor is not close to the block the sensor is too far from the TONE wheel teeth and the signals go way to week or even dead.
one can scope any sensor even this to see if the signal is weak or even dead, 1v is min. my rule.  
I assumed the cog on the crank end is sidekick and not G16b esteem.  or all hope ends.
a G16 engine is not the same on all cars., sorry not. used in many suzuki's and are not the same, close sure, but not the same. for sure CKP tone wheels.



Yes, in hindsight I would have replaced the fuel tank instead of trying to clean it....I used my pressure washer and got it pretty darn clean but obviously pretty hard to get it 100% clean.  One of the injectors was nearly 100% blocked and that cylinder was getting 0 fuel so that was why I replaced them all....but at that time I did not even think to check the return line so maybe I do have 4 bad injectors now but this is getting expensive....
is the filter new, or 25 years old./(sorry)_
the tank  we use computer cam bore scope ($15) to see if the tank is clean most are full of rust and huge nasty crap slag and GUM.  no EFI runs with bad tanks, ever.
Id have done that the day gas smelled like crap.  no injector made works with crap fuel.


As far as the wires/plugs-yeah they are (or were) new but I got them off Rockauto....cheap set.  At the time I didnt realize these Trackers had a crappy/goofy integral coil and never would have guessed this.... cheap plugs are great.  they always work, 1J plugs stock, always, all 96up have hidden spark coil and hiding it does not make it last longer.
the money you save on $1.50 plugs goes  TO MAG WIRES , no carbon   or silicone core wires need ever be used on these cars, they are crap. (mag is metal coiled wire , HV spark wires)
this car does not have 50,000 volt spark as COPS do about 1999. NOT HERE. that means do not read posts of cars having HIGH ENERGY IGNITION it is NOT HERE.
our spark is weak. (with good mag wire never a problem and burns more fuel and has pay back from that)

As far as the FPR-I actually did pull off the hose and blocked it with my thumb, not just pinched the vacuum line and it responded per your write up on the website.
so is not part time cure? no cure is , my guess is injector are not clogged. if not clogged causes over injections. richer.  due to 6psi more injection pressure and flow rates.


 
I'll probably end up looking closer at the OBD scan data. 
I have a cheap scan tool but didnt spend a whole lot of time looking at it.  code readers $20 are not scan tools code reader do DTC only and can not scan sensors.
a each real scan tool is all you need , as 1996 has so very fuel DTC. (first year this)

I believe it did go into closed loop but am not 100% positive. (this is key thing to check all cars 1996 to 2021) and if fails all smog tests fail in 1 second flat or CEL stuck on.

It does idle high until it warms up so I assumed it was (I even believe I saw that on the scanner but that seems like years ago now that I've been through all this other stuff and will have to do this again).

Grounds have been checked....I even ran a temporary ground from the battery to the block/chassis as a second check.  VERY GOOD.

I'll double check the exhaust manifolds and see if there are any cracks.... (o2 sensor front must not ever see any cracks, ever, that is 20% oxygen on earth and makes the 02 go to zero volts  dead wrong real fast.) 
The 02 must swing at idle hot, if not we find out  why, but 300 DTCs causes O2  to fail too.  300 is misfire and sends as slug of more air to the 02 and makes it go nuts.

one more trick remove the 02 sensor plugs. 4pin?
and drive, now O2 pins go to 0.45volts a lie to the ECU telling it Fuel mix is ok. does misfiring end now?  

that scan tool has  nice feature called LTFT,  long term fuel trim.
if the 02 reads wrong LTFT goes WILD, as in if 02 reads 0v,  the LTFT goes to MAX RICH and spark plugs foul black.

the fuel trim must  be correct a idle this is  goal after all parked hot idling car is 10000x more easy to fix going 45mph on the road.


for sure bad ECU will make all testing fruitless.  for sure bad caps are a horror, some even blow ECU fuse later or make all relays and VSV chatter like mad,  not good that.


...or I may just crush the car and be done with it.  :(,, no way please, yet lets do cheap tests. first) testing find true causes,

CKP must work full time no be dead, nor weak. (it is not some optional sensor like read 02 is,  for most now)
checks:
02 not dead but swings and not 100,000 miles old , end of life is 100,000 miles. less if engine stuck rich or oil burning engines. NO CRACKS near 02 front means gasket too there.
the LTFT shows reasonable readings,  like -5% this means engine is only 5%rich (NICE) and ECU removed -5% to get to perfect fuel mix. double nice.
STFT is too fast for humans to watch, ignore short term.

the CKP is linear device, it is not electronic nor is ECT or IAT temp sensors.
CMP sensor  on  cam is a HALL sensor, it has an amplifier in side and needs no tuning ever. like CKP. (as in pan gasket tuning horrors)

CKP is a coil of wire like  simple school class make your own generator.... and is very very weak even day1 new.\
the CKP sends the signal to the ECU and it uses a zero crossing detector to convert it to digital and best i know, 1volts is just enough more better.
and as you race the engine CMP goes higher voltage like all real generators do even hand made in school.
the magnetic field , gets weak at the square of the distance.  this huge thick pan gasket is huge gap.  if normal gap is 50 thou (0.050' and not is 0.200 wide that is  that is 4 squared less signal. or 16 times less.  that is how the math works out Faraday laws and all that.
my point is ,nobody on earth knows at all the stand of  max distances of any CKP here,  but we do know many failed for  JUST THIS fact.

that means the coil must see the magnetic pulse from the TONE wheel teeth, if not doomed.  
this ECU unlike most others on does run ok with CKP dead, but is at greatly reduced performance. 
if doing misfire calcs and CKP drops out the back in the crank shaft velocity variances are lost. means now a big lie.


this ECU measures the power from each firing 1,3,4,2 repeat,  to see that each firing is at full energy levels.  (expected) and does that by rate of crank speed up.

The CKP is not really optional at all, sure it runs but not right.
at  toyota stalls.
see?  ours is a tad different.
if the CKP misfires it also cause the spark tables to go nuts.  with no rational reason why to the humans.

some CKP sold from other makers may far better, as in ok with the huge gap, and huge numbers of makers now CMP,  (SMP maker is tops in my book)

SMP  maker ,even markets their sensor as far better than stock, It may be. more turns of finer wire inside is one way.
every maker of a sensor has the right to make it better and some do.
some even do this so well it fits and works on 10 cars. not even only suzuki. that way less to sell unique, and higher profits.

again any cheap scan tool works on 1996
no need for $300 tool
this car does only some federal codes.
this is all it does. P0xxx is federal EPA codes mandated,. P1 are suzuki only called factor codes. p1 up are factory

https://fixkick.com/CEL/96_ALL_CEL/96_all_dtcs1.pdf


google why 95 engines fail in 96-98 sidekick/trackers.
well known. CKP



this DTC may pop and go away fast seeing it can be hard, or see it in PENDINGS.  
some error take 3 cold to hot driving cycles.

one more, the ROTOR IN THE DISTRIBUTOR (china cloned crap) fits on 3 ways, only 1 way works,  always pain this, clone crap makes. the real one has huge springclip on the bottom
that blocks hare the 3 wrong ways  and fully rotor seated or is wrong.


PO335 crankshaft position/sensor a circuit malfunction.
335s hit with 1 in 20 missing pulses( ) and may take lots of driving to see it, or 3 driving cycles. pagee v2-6e3-e118
let me look that up first.yes,.