1997 Sidekick Sport

[Hoopt]

I'm a newbie, but I have been reading and trying to absorb a lot! I just acquire a 1997 sidekick sport with 199,000 miles.  According to the PO, it started overheating and after new thermostat (several), new radiator, new water pump, and new fan clutch, he parked the vehicle.  I am not familiear with these engines at all!

I trailered the vehicle home, added water to the radiator, letting the car idle with front on incline.  I idles in the drive and drove around the neighborhood.  The temp really didn't reach the center point of the gauge, so I "cleaned" the gauge sensor and turned on the heater.  The gauge worked as should, but didn't overheat.  I do not want to run engine before I determine cause.

There is not any water in the oil, that I can tell.  After running the vehicle, and cooling, I do have to add coolant.  Staring the engine, observing the coolant flow, no bubbles at the initial startup.  After about 15 seconds the radiator does bubble over.

I assume this is a head gasket issue?  I do have a check engine code.

It appears the engine has been maintained, hoses look good and do not look like original.  PCV valve looks like it was changed at some point and air cleaner is in good shape.  I do not notice a clatter in the engine, but my hearing is not the best.

I plan to do a major tune-up, replacing sensors and components that look like they have been in vehicle for years.

Any recommendations to check or change?  Should I do a ring job because of mileage?  I imagine the timing chain tensioners need checking.

Thanks, this is a great forum!

Hoopt

[fixkick]

I'm a newbie, but I have been reading and trying to absorb a lot! I just acquire a 1997 sidekick sport with 199,000 miles.  
According to the PO, it started overheating (what proof of that?)
and after new thermostat (several), ONLY the correct J18 thermostat work , NO THERE as this is a reverse flow thermostat and the ECT is on the other side of the engine and will in fact read way hotter than any G16 made, I will tell you the numbers from the book later)

new radiator, new water pump, and new fan clutch, he parked the vehicle.  I am not familiar with these engines at all!
the only tricks on this engine is that reverse flow and ECT location not the SAME PLACE:
Trick #2 is the metal tube to side of water pump housing , must never be restricted, any ANY WAY SHAPE OR FORM.\


I trailered the vehicle home, added water (you meant 50% Coolant AF)to the radiator, letting the car idle with front on incline.  I idles in the drive and drove around the neighborhood. 
The temp really didn't reach the center point of the gauge, the gauge is not an instrument ever, it only lets you know, (after owning car long time) today it is much hotter than normal.

so I "cleaned" the gauge sensor and turned on the heater.  The gauge worked as should, but didn't overheat.  I do not want to run engine before I determine cause.

there are 2 ways to overheat, parked idling for and hour, or up hill flogged hard at full power to  the wheels.


There is not any water in the oil, that I can tell.  After running the vehicle, and cooling, I do have to add coolant.  Staring the engine, observing the coolant flow, no bubbles at the initial startup.  After about 15 seconds the radiator does bubble over. (not good that unless , new coolant all changed out, and system not burped)

I assume this is a head gasket issue?  I do have a check engine code. (WHAT DTC IS THIS)

It appears the engine has been maintained, hoses look good and do not look like original.  PCV valve looks like it was changed at some point and air cleaner is in good shape.  I do not notice a clatter in the engine, but my hearing is not the best.

I plan to do a major tune-up, replacing sensors and components that look like they have been in vehicle for years.
linder
Any recommendations to check or change? 
Should I do a ring job because of mileage?  NO IF ALL 4 READ 199psI Warm hot engine. and new rings will not seat on any used worn cylinder walls.
I imagine the timing chain tensioners need checking. (as always this old)

Thanks, this is a great forum!

Hoopt

overheating, signs, some . real Evidence. not told yet or see?
AF 50% coolant landing on the ground parked hot engine and idling too long, even a 1 hour test. parked,
The fan most blow air first. that thermostatic fan when that hot or it is bad.
the dash gauge will go way too high.
engine pinging, (too hot)
lost power
violent out gassing of RAD to overflow tank is  stop engine fast event.
the scan tool will show way over 200F,  even 240f,  (more later) because the thermstat is up front and ECT is in the rear. so runs even 40F hotter or more, even more  flogged hard up hill.
the dash temp meter is a toy ,only, no numbers on it.

the thermostat must not be G16 , or installed backward  and bleeder hole must be top.

see ECT sensor here, (2 in one, , one for ECU and one for dash gauge)  see this link to after the 2.3L stopped running to hot. (new RAD bigger) but shows correct temps for both H18,j20 and J23, with 200F stat.
https://fixkick.com/forum/thread-2-3-doh...emp?page=3


look here at the stat , it is backwards, after all the water goes backwards direction.
the only why for this to work is tube 22 magic.  no small hose can be blocked here, or heater core too. nor that tricky bypass hose blocked.
as you can see pipe 22, feeds hot water back to the base wax pellet of the STAT, so  it can regulate correctly if not HELL TO PAY here.

[Hoopt]

Thanks for the info!
The PO was adding water only.  There was 3 gallons of water in coolant bottles in the vehicle!  I added some 100% coolant (+/-12 oz)  to mix with the water just for some coolant/ anti freeze. I am draining that today and going with the 50% coolant.  Important with the winter blast we will get tomorrow!  What is best way to burp radiator?  I have nose up (using hand and rag as hole cover sporadically) and run to get air out.
The PO was aware of the J18 thermostat oddity but that's not to say it is installed correctly.
I bought a code reader and plan to see what code is before I do anything.  This will hopefully tell me a lot! 
I hope to change oil and filter today as I realized that it has been parked and I bet no maintenance was done!
I will let make sure I get the run time for warm-up and see if there is a heating issue,then I will check the hose (J22) from the water pump, confirm thermostat is installed correctly. My next step is to look into the ECT.  Will code possibly tell me something on this?
I plan to do a compression test next.  I can rent a tester from auto-parts store for a refundable deposit, checked on that yesterday.
Your point on new rings vs old walls is understood!
Ill post code when I read it.

Thanks for the info!
Hoopt

Got code PO 304 - #4 cylinder misfire.

[fixkick]

Thanks for the info!
The PO was adding water only. 
There was 3 gallons of water in coolant bottles in the vehicle! 
I added some 100% coolant (+/-12 oz)  to mix with the water just for some coolant/ anti freeze.


I am draining that today and going with the 50% coolant. 
Important with the winter blast we will get tomorrow!  What is best way to burp radiator? 



I have nose up (using hand and rag as hole cover sporadically) and run to get air out.
The PO was aware of the J18 thermostat oddity but that's not to say it is installed correctly.

I bought a code reader and plan to see what code is before I do anything.  This will hopefully tell me a lot! 

I hope to change oil and filter today as I realized that it has been parked and I bet no maintenance was done!
I will let make sure I get the run time for warm-up and see if there is a heating issue,then I will check the hose (J22) from the water pump, confirm thermostat is installed correctly. My next step is to look into the ECT.   (this ECT only works on J18s, dual ECT it is)
Will code possibly tell me something on this? sure if lucky we can always use luck here.
I plan to do a compression test next.  I can rent a tester from auto-parts store for a refundable deposit, checked on that yesterday.
Do compression warm to hot, not cold and block throttle open a tad or full. let the needle peak out.

Your point on new rings vs old walls is understood!
Ill post code when I read it.

Thanks for the info!
Hoopt

Got code PO 304 - #4 cylinder misfire.

first off thanks for sharing your cars problems and experiences for sure on j18,
check for bad spark to #4 , is spark plug tip odd looking, like green with antifreeze coolant or carbon or oil fouled? or even damaged in some odd way?
or bad injector (swap injector to prove.)
or low compression #4

I am not sure  how to burp this engine, and is skill unique on all engine,  but opening up hose up top is good idea. as you fill it up.
pure water has no chance ever on this engine, 200 stat and rear ext shows say 230f and water boils at 212F,  50 % or hand mixed to that,
I am not sure total number of quarts on  j18,  the G15 is like 10qt. (so 5 quarts of pure AF and 5 water is 50% on G16 but sorry I do not know your total quarts,  sadly
I guess at 12? qt but is wild guess.

See if the compression test passing and or if failing say on cyl 2 and 3 both , you can do a RAD leak down test to see of the head is warped, or us the green blue dye tester that sees exhaust gasses at the rad neck cap off .test.

yes getting all air out of the coolant can be a pain.
once full it must not show signs of bubbles but must be for sure full.
the side overflow bottom must suck in fluid as the engine cools this will happen a few times and not need top off or more, into said bottom this is the proof all air is out of the system and that head gasket is not bad, eating AF for breakfast.

good day and good luck and Cheers. and hang tight on the artic blow, -5f here is 100 year record in texas.


good luck to you.

[Hoopt]

As the engine starts to warm I get a white/ gray smoke from exhaust.  I shut engine off. 
I reved the engine and the smoke quit, but started again at idle. Should I let the engine run a little longer to see if smoking stops? Should i do a compression test if the engine is smoking from exhaust?  I am not sure if the smoking will stop.  I never let it continue running.
I seem to be getting all the bubbles from the radiator, by burping, but not running engine very long.  My sheck engine light came back on, so I will pull #4 plug and see what it looks like!


Thanks.

Hoopt.

We were planning to go to N. TX this weekend, but the weather postponed our trip! 

Evreyone drive safely in these conditions!

[fixkick]

I get a white/ gray smoke from exhaust. I shut engine off.

it is super cold now outside,
the cold engine makes steam seen on all cars started cold , and more when cold outside.
but once the engine is full hot, no steam can be seen (its just too hot to see)
but on a blown head gasket (or the like) the water jackets vent water to the combustion chamber and steam happens at the tail pipe end no matter what.

watch your neighbors car see how long it takes their car to stop steaming at cold start up.
yours must be the time, time wise.

if the water jackets and Rad are 50% AF,
and you then sniff that exhuust plume.
if it smells nasty sweet that is , glycol smell, in the exhaust, and not good at all.

The tail pipe smells like burning oil that is what that is.
if not sure, take the dip stick and drip one drop of oil on the hot manifold and learn what your oil smells like.
sweet and nasty is GLYCOL (AF)
gas burns and makes H20 as by product of combustion(clean steam) but not GLYCOL, ever.

huge wreck in Dallas, 100+ cars. not safe here.
good luck to you !!!!

[fixkick]

I get a white/ gray smoke from exhaust.  I shut engine off. 

it is super cold now outside, 
the cold engine makes steam seen on all cars started cold , and more when cold outside.
but once the engine is full hot, no steam can be seen (its just too hot to see)
but on a  blown head gasket (or the like) the water jackets vent water to the combustion chamber and steam happens at the tail pipe end no matter what.

watch your neighbors car see how long it takes their car to stop steaming at cold start up.
yours must be the time, time wise.

if the water jackets and Rad are 50% AF,
and you then sniff that exhuust plume.
if it smells nasty sweet  that is , glycol smell, in the exhaust, and not good at all.

The tail pipe smells like burning oil that is what that is.
if not sure, take the dip stick and drip one drop of oil on the hot manifold and learn what your oil smells like.
sweet and nasty is GLYCOL (AF)
gas burns and makes H20  as by product of combustion(clean steam) but not GLYCOL, ever.

huge wreck in Dallas,  100+ cars. not safe here. 
good luck to you !!!!

lets do overheating from scratch.  all signs and tests. it's not hard, seen them all.(old dog) <<< 17 signs of overheating here.

the engine ias this great feature built in called 14psi AF (antfreeze coollant) pressure.
the RAD cap must be good, if the rubber seal under cap looks ok 99.9% of the time the cap is ok,  the rubber seal can crack or be missing but the spring there just does not go bad or go magically away, most the time.
CAP off see no carbon dust or oil floating on top of AF green fluid here (if green not red/orange/yell brands of AF fluid) bad  news this and so simple to do.

If the CAP works (raD) THE TOP HOSE ON THE RAD GETS HARD ,(not soft) with 14PSI inside, after say 15minutes of cold startup. (or longer  now in ARCTIC BLAST week)

this fact is #1, for getting fully AF protection up to 160F, lacking 12-14psi, or 0 PSI , the boil point is 240 (50% AF) 212F with pure water and hopeless that for sure.

if the systems does not hold pressure this is FIRST order hard failure. that must be corrected first. always,  (no hard hose top ever this is  bad news.
OK it does hold pressure or not,  the next to know is that pressures will cause AF to land on the garage floor, a GREEN puddle.

if you see green puddles we then find the source, water pump , hose, or OMG leaking down side of head as head meets the block (gasket head point, all 4 sides)
or freeze plugs leaking all sides.  (aka. casting plugs or expansion plugs) names do not matter only LEAKS now.
Pump leaks. water, no leaks on the ground allowed,  side tank not over 1/2 full ever. (as is done after full AF service, cold)

the hoses leak under pressure,  all  bad hoses leak at 14PSI, and is DRAMATIC,
passenger floor soaked in AF is bad heater core in dash,  and again hopeless now,  or use by pass hose at fire wall easy never bock it , bypass it  a must if leaks now (for fix later)
if the AF coolant loop does not hold pressure  and no green on the ground what is next

well the dipstick is next,  oil looks like  clear amber oil, not like chocolate milk,(bad) or like this is horrible bad (my cracked block main bearings)
the purple colors above are links. to click..

the oil cap front of engine top , comes off , and ignore odd foam under cap lid, but do look deep in to VC valve cover,  see valves there and see normal oil coolers there, not milk color.
if yes the engine has  bad head gasket or block/head is cracked.
keep in mind some heads have freeze plugs on some even inside engine on top of head, so.... looking for that can find those rusted through. ( i see none in J18 up) just G16s.
look to front bottom of engine at pulley base rear to see no GREEN DEATH THERE. (g16 has hidden freeze plug  front top ,not sure J18)

that is about all you can do with just eyeballs, sure lots.
now testing
compression test. wot, throttle blocked and at least warm engine not fully hot needed.

the magic rad cap leak down test.
the more magic, chem tester for exh. found in RAD NECK, cap off. see first link of this post for that.

[fixkick]

more help and photos, more things you will find of interest now or later. anytime.

first just images in gallery j18

https://fixkick.com/forum/ezgallery.php?...ery&cat=15

then my pdf I made
36 pages, j18 or j20 are same mostly. we have j20 running in J18 car sport, not me but others, so now you know parts are there too. Crank not the same)
j20 is a stroked 18. and vast parts shared.

https://fixkick.com/engine/18L/random.pdf

the J18 is great engine and has lots of power, unlike G16
J18, is not free running, so do not spin the crank with chains off, ok?

most times just and eyeball finds the huge clues, for sure green AF leaks in all places possible side and outside the engine,

my guess PO ran the engine on water only and warped the head but I do hope BIG TIME I am wrong.
!
the next lowest cost tool is compression tool , free rent, or even from harbor fright at $20 owned. (most head warps cause cyl 2 to leak into #3, making both fail leakdown and compression) 199PSI hot or warm,. WOT this engine has higher CR compression ratio and makes lots more power that way and the 200cc more displacement.

more

https://fixkick.com/engine/20Liter/html/index.html

head torque and sequence

https://fixkick.com/engine/18L/18%20head-torque-all.JPG

https://fixkick.com/one-point-eight


my j18 info , information not organized, ever, due to me doing only G16 then later , in a weakened moments added lots of facts and data about them the car is rare.
it is all there if you search or ask me I can dig up most things about J18 or J20a.

[Hoopt]

Been staying inside mostly, this southerner doesn't go north further than 1/2 a day horse ride of I-10 except to see the in-laws (really means my wife makes me).
Changed the plugs and #4 was corroded to all get out.  The seal below the threads has a gap in it. Hard to unscrew.  Blew air in to clean everything.  New plug went in rather smoothly, surprise!  Started and vehicle ran smooth!  A little rough at first start-up, but smoothed out and idles as should.  Had iridium plugs in the kick and I replaced with same.
Could this have been caused by a gasket leak?
#3 plug had what looks like burned carbon build up on it.
# 1&2 looked well used.
Smoked, but exhaust still smelled more normal to me.  The coolant is staying in the radiator and has pressure. It built pressure from start until I could get to radiator to get cap off, and yes I was splattered!! DUH a Sr moment!.

Ill see what changes this causes with a little driveway time.

Thanks.
Hoopt.

[Hoopt]

Started the Sidekick yesterday and got a check engine, so I shut it down.   Checked the code this AM ,showed P0505 code, idle problems and cleared same.  Started the car, started ok, but hard to shift, I blamed on cold.  Did not get another code, assumed P0505 was from yesterdays rough start after plug change. Let it run and drove about a mile and turned off.  About 2 hours later it would not start, not even turn over. Ignition fires starter, but only one attempt then nothing.  Battery shows 12.15 volts.
Research indicates P0505 is EGR valve, but would this shut engine down?
Thanks in advance for help.

Hoopt

Found contamination inside valve cover!  Not good.