Limp Mode Issue, Need advise

[Scotsmn30]

Hi All, long story short, I had a 90 Tracker for a long time and loved it, but had to sell it due to life's issues. I have since wanted another one of this little beasts.
That brings us up to today, I was able to get a 1992 4dr 16v manual for very cheap.. It was running in limp mode and the CEL on, but the PO had not had it for very long and he had work done on it, but was done messing with it. The person that worked on it had changed the Radiator and put in a new timing belt. I bought it for $500 and brought it home.

I did the code pull, and the only code it is showing is 23, IAT. So I read all I can on this and it seems this is a big reason it is in limp mode. Thinking this would be an easy fix, I went out to look at the senor, and well there is no IAT sensor on the air box.

Here is where I need the help/advise. I know that in 92, the IAT was iffy it if was there or not, but the ECM thinks it should be there. So that makes me wonder if some PO had changed the ECM with an incorrect one and that is why this little truck has been passed on from new owner to new owner.. 

So anyone have any advise on how to get this code to stop? I am ok with adding the sensor, but I need to find the wires to add it and though I see them on the wire schmatic that is out one this site as red/black and Grey/yellow, I am not seeing the red/black wire in the engine bay.

Is this truck able to be corrected?

[fixkick]

Hi All, long story short, I had a 90 Tracker for a long time and loved it, but had to sell it due to life's issues. I have since wanted another one of this little beasts.
That brings us up to today, I was able to get a 1992 4dr 16v manual for very cheap.. It was running in limp mode and the CEL on, but the PO had not had it for very long and he had work done on it, but was done messing with it. The person that worked on it had changed the Radiator and put in a new timing belt. I bought it for $500 and brought it home.

I did the code pull, and the only code it is showing is 23, IAT. So I read all I can on this and it seems this is a big reason it is in limp mode. Thinking this would be an easy fix, I went out to look at the senor, and well there is no IAT sensor on the air box.

Here is where I need the help/advise. I know that in 92, the IAT was iffy it if was there or not, but the ECM thinks it should be there. So that makes me wonder if some PO had changed the ECM with an incorrect one and that is why this little truck has been passed on from new owner to new owner.. 

So anyone have any advise on how to get this code to stop? I am ok with adding the sensor, but I need to find the wires to add it and though I see them on the wire schmatic that is out one this site as red/black and Grey/yellow, I am not seeing the red/black wire in the engine bay.

Is this truck able to be corrected?

this simple , no kidding
the 92 had no IAT, not on the air box filter nor the harness there with connector.
so wrong ECU, in car.
the ECU never lies here, 23 means sensor reads 5 full volts, a dead open circuit. as in missing or its 2 wires cut.

EDU 58B30 is no IAC 92/93 these vins. but in calif first use. 58B10.

first off look at hood sticker see words  california  it is , if not , FED it is.
that is first, for any sensors that fail is that. E33 is calif, E03 is USA FED market codes, on all parts sold. by suzuki, here in USA/

all numbers higher are with IAT on the AIR BOX
seen my PDF


https://fixkick.com/ECU/EPC-ECU96-98/all...9-95NA.pdf


the iAT Is here. id 39 and harness 2 pin plug right there if FED car.

the ECU and hood sticker  must match, for year  and CALIF /fED.

I think the story is CALIF ARB mandated it first, then FED EPA later did same.
1992.
ARB is calif. air  research board, or CAL EPA,

[Scotsmn30]

Well that does confirm my thought in that one of the POs did change out the ECMs as the hood is 58B01 and the ECM is 58B90..

So with that being said, is my only choice to find an ECM that is 58B30 or less since the hood does not say cali anywhere on it that I could find.

Or is there a way to wire in a resistor to fix the current one?

[fixkick]

Well that does confirm my thought in that one of the POs did change out the ECMs as the hood is 58B01 and the ECM is 58B90..

So with that being said, is my only choice to find an ECM that is 58B30 or less since the hood does not say cali anywhere on it that I could find.

Or is there a way to wire in a resistor to fix the current one?

58B90
IS CALIF, 94 AND  FOR SURE IS IAT SENSOR ECU.  (the wrong ECU is known seen)
SEEN IN MY PDF ABOVE. that P/n.

Sure the resistor fix is easy,  or real IAT added  wired back to ECU

2400 to 2700  resistor should work. OF ANY KIND.

[Scotsmn30]

Ok, so found a 58B30 computer and got it all plugged in and it started with very high idle and the CEL came on AGAIN..

So check the codes and now it is flashing 14.. Ok cool, I can replace the ECT. Ran to local part store, picked one up, put it in.. Still 14. Ugghh

So checked to see if the resistance on the new ECT was in spec, and no issue there.. So now I have to ask did I get a bad ECU.. 

Any advise. Really would like to get this little guy running as love them.. but this is getting frustrating. 

[fixkick]

Ok, so found a 58B30 computer and got it all plugged in and it started with very high idle and the CEL came on AGAIN..

So check the codes and now it is flashing 14.. Ok cool, I can replace the ECT. Ran to local part store, picked one up, put it in.. Still 14. Ugghh
key off
pull dome  fuse for say 1 minute
 , now 14 is erased by human. (you) most 14 codes are fast to set and fast to clear (5 seconds), and no need to do dome trick but just in case we do.

now dome fuse back in and key on and run engine see if 14 ECT pops again.?
if yes,...
14 means the 2 wires (either ) are cut! (broken end to end) or ECT is bad.  300 ohms hot and at 40f the ECT reads about 5000 ohms if it reads ok on ohms the 2  wires are cut.
I bet you tested the ECT and is good.


but wait,  test #1 is 5vdc. on the ECT pin, red-yellow strip wire key on ECT unplugged.


if ECU produces +5vdc there then 5vdc in the ECU is good (4.75 to 5.25vdc is spec actual)
there is no why any ecu pin B9 ect pin is blown up, I do not believe that short of lightening hitting car. inputs on all ECU are very robust and protected well.
outputs not so good.

or the ground wire to the ect is cut. the gray yellow.
testing 1,2,3...
key on , ECT connected and cold outside say 40F,  meter to battery neg lug, black meter lead (volts) and red test lead , key on, red wire 2.1v  and gray , 0v on ECT ground pin..
if red wire reads 5 the ect is open, if 0v the wire is cut. to ECU.
if the gray wire reads 5v the ground is open.  (we check ground last here )

warning some fake or wrong ECT exist some are switches, not ECT or other oddities.
but you can test your ect in pan of hot water, 180f is 300 ohms and on car if know it is at 180f. (im sure you did but put this here only to be complete)

I think the ECT wiring is  failing,. that is what I think, but your voltmeter can solve that riddle easy.
just 2 tests, both pins to battery neg lug, key on. per above.

14 means ECT is open circuited.


So checked to see if the resistance on the new ECT was in spec, and no issue there.. So now I have to ask did I get a bad ECU..  I DO NO THINK SO.

Any advise. Really would like to get this little guy running as love them.. but this is getting frustrating.  we will find it , for sure.
do not panic or worry or hot wire the ECU,, I think it is some simple cause, wires for sure.

Also know that the ECT plug can fail, the pins or worse the nasty thing that the wire inside the insulation is broken where eyes can not go.
I pull the plug in hand with about  5 lbs of force and see it see the insulation shrinks now, if yes wire is snapped inside,  use ohm meter end to end see same infinity = bad.

you  are getting close,  I am sure.(see schematic)

never see or heard any code 14 or 15 that could not be cured fast. (wires or ECT bad) is 99.9% cause, or no 5vdc out of ECU.
5vdc is ok otherwise huge  numbers of DTC  stored. all that use 5vdc will. if dead. for sure TPS errors max, and iAT if ECU uses it.

most DTCs on this car are DEAD SENSORS.  100% dead as a door nail and 14 too. I call bad wires.

[fixkick]

Ok, so found a 58B30 computer and got it all plugged in and it started with very high idle and the CEL came on AGAIN..

So check the codes and now it is flashing 14.. Ok cool, I can replace the ECT. Ran to local part store, picked one up, put it in.. Still 14. Ugghh
key off
pull dome  fuse for say 1 minute
 , now 14 is erased by human. (you) most 14 codes are fast to set and fast to clear (5 seconds), and no need to do dome trick but just in case we do.

now dome fuse back in and key on and run engine see if 14 ECT pops again.?
if yes,...
14 means the 2 wires (either ) are cut! (broken end to end) or ECT is bad.  300 ohms hot and at 40f the ECT reads about 5000 ohms if it reads ok on ohms the 2  wires are cut.
I bet you tested the ECT and is good.


but wait,  test #1 is 5vdc. on the ECT pin, red-yellow strip wire key on ECT unplugged.


if ECU produces +5vdc there then 5vdc in the ECU is good (4.75 to 5.25vdc is spec actual)
there is no why any ecu pin B9 ect pin is blown up, I do not believe that short of lightening hitting car. inputs on all ECU are very robust and protected well.
outputs not so good.

or the ground wire to the ect is cut. the gray yellow.
testing 1,2,3...
key on , ECT connected and cold outside say 40F,  meter to battery neg lug, black meter lead (volts) and red test lead , key on, red wire 2.1v  and gray , 0v on ECT ground pin..
if red wire reads 5 the ect is open, if 0v the wire is cut. to ECU.
if the gray wire reads 5v the ground is open.  (we check ground last here )

warning some fake or wrong ECT exist some are switches, not ECT or other oddities.
but you can test your ect in pan of hot water, 180f is 300 ohms and on car if know it is at 180f. (im sure you did but put this here only to be complete)

I think the ECT wiring is  failing,. that is what I think, but your voltmeter can solve that riddle easy.
just 2 tests, both pins to battery neg lug, key on. per above.

14 means ECT is open circuited.


So checked to see if the resistance on the new ECT was in spec, and no issue there.. So now I have to ask did I get a bad ECU..  I DO NO THINK SO.

Any advise. Really would like to get this little guy running as love them.. but this is getting frustrating.  we will find it , for sure.
do not panic or worry or hot wire the ECU,, I think it is some simple cause, wires for sure.

Also know that the ECT plug can fail, the pins or worse the nasty thing that the wire inside the insulation is broken where eyes can not go.
I pull the plug in hand with about  5 lbs of force and see it see the insulation shrinks now, if yes wire is snapped inside,  use ohm meter end to end see same infinity = bad.

you  are getting close,  I am sure.(see schematic)

never see or heard any code 14 or 15 that could not be cured fast. (wires or ECT bad) is 99.9% cause, or no 5vdc out of ECU.
5vdc is ok otherwise huge  numbers of DTC  stored. all that use 5vdc will. if dead. for sure TPS errors max, and iAT if ECU uses it.

most DTCs on this car are DEAD SENSORS.  100% dead as a door nail and 14 too. I call bad wires.

[fixkick]

happy new year !!!!