1997 vitara

[fixkick]

these are the live data cold. ill test the maf using your method with multimeter. ill post results after test. thermostat on order from suzuki. fitted new temp sender for ecu, (2 wire or 1 wire? as 2 is correct )

old one looked pretty ruggerd. the oxygen sensor is swinging lean to rich. i just screen shot live data. the maf dropped to 0.2 v to a maximum of 2.3 v. so ill bench test it

so far I am looking at all that and see nothing wrong cold engine ECT shows 21C so that is good but what is ECT hot. 82C is correct.
idle fast idle RPM cold looks great at 1261
advanced looks good.
looks good so far.
maf at idle is 6g/s  ,nomral.
The maf seems to swing ok , up to 2.3 is near 3v,  (takes   aggressive WOT to get 3v)  max MAF output us flying up a hill wot say in 3rd gear, hard.]
in fact max MAF out will be 95HP full HP.

TPS 0.6v is good near 1v is great at idle.

just make sure ECT rises to 82c or more if have the extra hot stat, at 90c.

fuel pressure needs to be verified ok.  It should be ok, but you never know for sure. unless checked.

good luck ! and cheers.

still waiting fot the fuel pressure gauge, i wish i had the money and fly you over to Australia and fix it for me.! i forgot to add like you first asked yes it runs rough both hot and cold and at any speed or revs. ill post up some more reading tomorrow once it is hot. could i adjust the tps using the scan tool or bench test it like you showed me. thanks again

the TPS calibration does not effect the throttle angle pin , called TP.  (in fact the TP pin is very crude it only does Enrich mode and cut fuel mode)
the TPS calibration is only to get the idle switch working right for so that it is, working at idle and that it does not fight the driver.
the Calibration is done with  set of feeler gauges.
let me explain this TPS idle "fight You" thing (effect)
if some person sets it by guessing and not with feeler gauges, this can easily do this set of events:
1: person driving advanced the throttle to drive.
2: the idle switch fails to open, (set wrong) and then the driver demands power but idle mode is still in force(active) you and the ECU now fight each other.
this is felt as  huge delay or hesitation to first off, acceleration. but self cures as you advance the throttle.

if the TPS is set correctly this is not going to happen.
IF set correctly the MAF sets fuel mix crusing.  The MAF shows air flow (mass) and the ECU matches fuel to  that  drivers demand(right foot action)
Let me explain the MAF a bit,  it is  slow device,  and is too slow for fast responsive  of engine power with the drivers right foot moved fast.

This is what TPS enrich mode comes in , this is ,mode is fast (electric is faster than air flow demands) so the ECU sees you move the right foot fast now.
This enrich mode causes fast power to happen (injection rates rise fast)
ECU sees only the speed of that action and depth (both crudely)  and then  ends closed loop mode (lean) and goes to enrich mode in and instant and make lots of
power from the engine via wider injection pulses,  in and instant, to humans..
if the driver ends hes fast right foot. action (steady foot cruise) the MAF catches up to reality and at cruise the closed loop happens again. (lean 14.6:1 AFR)
AFR= air fuel ratio, enrich is near 12:1. to make power come on fast. on driver demand and that is all TPS action (at first)
the key point are the TPS is not a precision device at all, it only needs to be (TP) linear and no drop outs.

on new cars the TPS is auto-calibrated(learn mode) and never needs to be touched. (on the 1997 j18 sport we set voltage only)

no this car, if the TPS is replaced it must be adjusted correctly , on car or even on the bench, carefully .
on car one could just set it with one feeler gauge and try it. (on bench use 3 gauge per FSM)

on our TPS the feeler is 0.026" = 0.66  mm (1997)
the idle switch is not really a switch, (gold) it is just a crude carbon switch.  50-1000 can be considered closed and infinity is open.
the 16v car has other problems the TPS adjust screw is blocked with the throttle racket. so reaching the , throttle stop screw is hard, but bracket does simply come off unbolted.
sure you can use ohm meter test the TPS or scan tool tool key on but not running, the TPS connector is unplugged.


BAD things happen on old cars like this:
what if someone had idle problems long ago and wrecked the no touch throttle stop screw and  the TPS is now at wrong calibration
or worse there is always worse and the be TPS set to wrong matching wrong stop screw setting (2 wrongs and now ECU goes NUTS)
ERROR 2:
What I did is check the TV valve for near 100% closure first, to  .005 or 0.127 Millimeters (our feelers have brass feeler leaf blade for .005" sizes
there is no suzuki spec. on the stop screw only they say buy new TB for $1200 and be happy, but  TV closes almost fully, even water can not pass it.
I set them to .005" , zero gap is no good as that causes TV to stick in TB bore. never good zero.
cured.

once the TV gap/bore is validated by eye or gauged, we the then get to .026" gauge in the stop gap and set the TPS to just close the idle switch, throttle is closed.
The TPS idle switch ohms is  500 ohms spec = closed . (DTC error logic)

there is one  more error seen too. and that some previous owner remove the TPS and put it back with the 2 index pins inside not aligned.
that is hopeless. until assembled correctly, seen it and TPS does not work at all like that.

EFFECTS good or bad:
more simple list of failures TPS.
TPS dead, (means throttle angle)  enrich mode never happens and throttle is now delayed for POWER (HP)
idles switch too early  , open too early (not sure me effect)
idles switch too late, the enrich mode goes in to war mode (loggerheads) to idle controls want to win  and the fight each, never fun to have this.
TPS intermittent (old ones do this) they have drop outs. like this on TP pin

driver advances right foot in linear way from non to WOT , in a smoth action
TPS does this. wrong.  1v,  1.2, 1.3v  , 1.4, 0v, 2v,,3v, 4v. (ok to start and end but ....)
and never a jump to 5v or to 4.74v.
see that jump to zero that is worn out carbon in the TPS angle POT, DROP OUTS ARE FAILURE.

as you can see TP , what maters is volts driving car, and no drop outs or dead spots. in the TP pin. as the defeats enrich mode.

as you can see all this is tad complex and checking fuel pressure first is  best on all cars. (and FPR range of pressure, at all throttle settings)

yes the scan tool can be used to calibrate the TPS , if no 1 or 2 or 3 other things wrong stated above.

most errors are PO previous owner caused. (TPS) or a bad TPS. Bench testing the TPS is best for sure that .005" gap and TPS mounted correctly and TPS checked for resistance, and no TP drop outs checked then calibrated, all on the bench, SURE.

this reason



getting here. the infamous no touch screw. is first make sure TV gap is set to 0.005" first. the below is TPS calibration. (mine) USA spec car.

[1972]

finally i have fixed the multible problems with my car. it runs just like it ran out of the dealership. so ill begin with what i replaced. i tested the tps and it was glitchy, so i replaced with a factory tps. tested the fuel pump and it to was not up to spec pressure and i stalled a new bosch pump and blew out the fuel lines. i tested the ecu temp sensor and it to needed replacing with a new thermostat and rubber gasket. it ran a bit better but still something wasnt right. i then cleaned the isc and it ran a bit better, but still not idling properly. i checked the maf sensor and found the plastic cap had been removed and it was full of dirt and was getting high and low voltage codes, so i replaced with a new one. scaned for codes and they were gone. but still the car wasnt going as it should. then i removed heat sheild on exhaust manifold and found no 4 was cracked almost right around. i replaced that with a set of extractors and new o2 sensor. but still not right. so i checked the plugs and no 1 plug was clean, so i tested the new leads and all tested with in spec. so i started the car and pulled the injector plugs and no change in no 1 when removed. so i swapped no 1 and no 2 leads and sure enough no 2 was now not making a difference when the injector plug was removed. took the leads back and received a refund and installed ngk leads and the car runs and idles like it should. the car runs better than when i bought it. i have had idling issues with the car since i bought it. but now i could put a 20 cent coin on the rocket cover a it would stay there. thanks fixkick

[fixkick]

Thanks
all the MAF screen that is not a screen lost, that is a laminar flow device that takes bumpy air and makes it straight so the hot wire can read MAS air flow correctly.
that is a good find!
wise idea those new headers. (extractors) (O2 now working as it should)
carbon core spark wires suck swap gas, go mag wire. bosch or NGK.
those carbon can fail at each engine twist and shake. horrid thing to find the hard way.

you did this car proud , thanks for sharing your success, love to hear folks making it run right and for sure 26 to 28MPG. nice.