1997 vitara

[fixkick]

one other failure common on old VITARA
G16, all.
is IAC dEAD?, if the IAC is dead, there is no cold running air, supply.
so that means floods.
The ECU can never know that the IAC is dead (cold start idle air thermal) in the base of the TB.
the ECU assumes the IAC works and if dead, flooding it will do.
the IAC is open cold and closes at 150F.(65C) if it never opens , flood it will
then when fully hot runs ok. see why? lack of air.
the maf I thinks is off line cold and can not help. (IIRC)

The IAC is open cold and RPM near 1500 rpm. (colder it is faster RPM)


does engine run ok hot and is it really 82c + hot or not?
the ECU has many modes, besides limphome and backup.
cranking
cold idle
hot idle + closed loop 02
acceleration
deceleration
cruise,
and engine load.
and all based on engine coolant temperatures. (and altitude)
this is why all symptoms help "evidence"

[1972]

So i disconected fuel lines blew compressed air thru all good, did a visual check on the fuel lines all good. took fuel cap of and started car no change. so then i disconected maf plug car still ran the same. pulled the plug of tps and the revs increased slightly and idled like it should, i reved it and the engine also reved like it should. Does this mean my problem is with the tps, can you repair the tps or just replace it. thanks

[fixkick]

So i disconected fuel lines blew compressed air thru all good, did a visual check on the fuel lines all good. took fuel cap of and started car no change. so then i disconected maf plug car still ran the same. pulled the plug of tps and the revs increased slightly and idled like it should, i reved it and the engine also reved like it should. Does this mean my problem is with the tps, can you repair the tps or just replace it. thanks

you need to learn to use a volt meter
each device you Removed, causes ECu to go to limphome mode,  (anY missing or dead deviCE) EMULATION.

WHY not test the MAF first, even clean first.
the output test. MAF.
1,2,3
1: key on voltage
2: idle
3: gunning the throttle test.
per my maf page,  this same page shows what the FSM book shows  how to do that. it is super easy tests this, simple voltages.

unplugging the TPS forces TPS emulation mode.  a very very crude mode.
KEY ON TPS OUTPUT IS 1V.  GOES TO 4volts at full throttle.  
The TPS is only for enrich  mode,  fast right foot.
the MAF sets power, it measures  air flow and matches fuel rates to that air flow, in real time all the time. It is a key sensor for (HP) power, this sensor.
the Engine makes power from Air and fuel,  both, MAF working right allows the ECU to inject fully even at WOT,  if not there will be no power from engine full.


my pages show the ohms test for ECT and voltage to, read them  and is super simple voltmeter checks.

are you sure it is flooding and rich and not just simple fuel starvation?  they dead opposites.
like I told you MAFs like to go weak and that means lost of engine power.
all shops clean it first, to DE-coke it.  did you, ?  if filthy it will read low and low engine power the results.

Are you not reading spark tips (spark plug tips speak to you) for sure if lean or rich. 
when you unplug the MAF the ECU sets DTC for MAF death, and uses the TPS to EMULATE the DeAD maf.  that is what limphome does, emulate dead sensors.
so engine still runs,  and wanted. (not getting stranded)
it is really easy to get fooled you do not underand these basic facts of limphome and emulation of dead sensors.
it can send you on the wrong track.

let me give 1 example.
fuel pressure way to low,  mech blind to this fact.

he pulls the MAF , it goes to emulation mode (means goes super rich LIMP mode) and hides the low pressure, effects whole or in part.
fooling him in to thinking MAF is dead,  see?

to fix cars like that lacking  real scan too  the mech, needs to learn to use the FSM book and the voltmeter.
to test all sensors.


1996 , USA we scan the sensors and like magic all that data is on my screen, ever sensor reading LIVE even up hill wide open throttle ,dig?
but no you., there is no oBD2 here.
so you must work harder Meters and gauges. both.
Testing each sensor by hand (manual testing)   fuel pressure too. ECU can not run right with wrong fuel pressure,

my best guess so far, is
bad sensors. or fuel pressure wrong.
engine is ok,  so... its EFI problem

[1972]

ill read and test the maf tomorrow, i bought some crc maf cleaner today and cleaned the maf as you said to. i reinstalled after drying and started the car still no change in engine. ill post my may readings tomorrow and see what you think. the efi pressure gauge will be this week. and again thanks for helping.

[fixkick]

ill read and test the maf tomorrow, i bought some crc maf cleaner today and cleaned the maf as you said to. i reinstalled after drying and started the car still no change in engine. ill post my may readings tomorrow and see what you think. the efi pressure gauge will be this week. and again thanks for helping.

you are welcome
with your symptoms and parts changed out.
we can assume the engine is ok, so that reduces causes by a huge margin, for sure if vacuum gauge (yes one more tool) shows steady vacuum at 19"Hg. at hot idle.
leaving only
EFI and fuel pressures, correct.
EFI is sensors first if the CAPS in the ECU are not leaking boric acid that is,  we always look first there, (cracks /bulging or leaking green snot is no good) Electrolytic caps there are all" loves to  fail" this old they have design life spec, of 20years, some go 10y with black cased Rubicon mfg name, that suck IMO.

So we test sensors and  fuel pressure , and depends on what tools you have now, IDK that, can't know.
here in the 50States  we can get a $20 DmM, vac and compression gauge, and timing light, under $100 all , or about 1hour shop labor . so is FREE in my book see?

A DMM costs $20 here at walmart, and works on this system easy. any DMM  made will (meter)

The cars must be tested for working A thermostat,  if runs too cold , you will fail.  all EFI cars not just this car, the 82c or up must be there, working.
if the stat works the ECT reads 300 ohms hot = 82c  the ECT is only thermal NTC thermistor resistor, super super simple device, electric too no transitors there.
82c is normal
as is 300ohms or less a tad. normal at ETC.\\\  no ecu/efi LIKES A BAD THERMOSTAT AND IF LOW , SUCKS FUEL LIKE MAD.
LEARN THIS TOO, Some STAT'S are sold as FAILSAFE, and go 100% open as/ with failed, I call the Arctic freeze mode, EFI goes MAD.
this is why we test coolant temps first, yes one more meter for $15 called a IR heat gun. (is your themostat missing the rubber ring?)
OBD1 does not test for  weak sensors only dead, so only we can find problems MANUALLY. Humans only cures and tests, here, legacy cars same as old toyotas from 1988 too. 4A engines, same, deal.(until 1996 USA laws changed it.)

then MAF voltage at keyon, idle and gunned to 3v. (try for 2 seconds that) this last gunned is to be sure it is fully alive. seen many cloned junk MAF fail.
the TPS is also tested easy super simple electric device no transistors. at all there. just a carbon resistor there.
All maf tests are backprobed tests, no connector pulls . needles probes, even DIY needles using leather sewing needles to do the job fast.
all autoshops have needle probes or go broke fast. we can make our own. I have web page showing how.

1 to 4 vdc out, key on no start, move throttle from non to max  see 1v rise in a linear fashion to 4v. it is not precision but must be linear. and for sure no dropouts.
TPS is super crude sensor, and super easy to test. with any DMM,  set to read volts. key on no start, TP pin is output pin so named in the book.
top best is needle probes again.
connect black meter test lead to ground battery neg or engine block ground.
then red test probe to TP pin, back probed, this is ohms test, I do voltage tests only for rubber meets the road reasons (If you get my drift)
I backprobe sensors with meter black lead on ground not  on pin1, so I see the TRUTH. only.
then 
TP pin or as we call it in 2020 , throttle angle pin2.
we can see it stuck at 5v, if stuck there ground wire is cut to pin or  TPS is dead. (nah not you it has now DTC errors)

then see 1volt DC. and advance the throttle by hand and see 4vdc. about that. it is not precision device, 
but must advance in direct proportions to hand on throttle, if does it is good.
those are my ideas 10/4.

[fixkick]

when the engine is hot (zero euro dollar ) test
we get engine fully up to temperature. in summer/ fall now it is fast. even 5miles driven fast.
and when sure it is how, dash gage stops rising,
touch or grab the top RAD hose, and if hand flies off ouch, this is normal if not that is dead wrong coolant temps, and is bad thermostat , wrong one or installed wrong.
wrong means.
missing rubber ring
or upside down or
jiggle pin not front (uphill is front on this car)
if put in wrong air pocket form and things related fail for sure ECU goes mad as ECT goes mad. Bad sensor readings happen here do to air pockets. there.
ECT can not measure air is why only water( 50%AF)

[1972]

               

[1972]

these are the live data cold. ill test the maf using your method with multimeter. ill post results after test. thermostate on order from suzuki. fitted new temp sender for ecu, old one looked pretty ruggerd. the oxygen sensor is swinging lean to rich. i just screen shot live data. the maf droped to 0.2 v to a maximun of 2.3 v. so ill bench test it

[fixkick]

these are the live data cold. ill test the maf using your method with multimeter. ill post results after test. thermostat on order from suzuki. fitted new temp sender for ecu, (2 wire or 1 wire. 2 is correct )

old one looked pretty ruggerd. the oxygen sensor is swinging lean to rich. i just screen shot live data. the maf dropped to 0.2 v to a maximum of 2.3 v. so ill bench test it

so far I am looking at all that and see nothing wrong cold engine ECT shows 21C so that is good but what is ECT hot. 82C is correct.
idle fast idle RPM cold looks great at 1261
advanced looks good.
looks good so far.
maf at idle is 6g/s  ,nomral.
The maf seems to swing ok , up to 2.3 is near 3v,  (takes   aggressive WOT to get 3v)  max MAF output us flying up a hill wot say in 3rd gear, hard.]
in fact max MAF out will be 95HP full HP.

TPS 0.6v is good near 1v is great at idle.

just make sure ECT rises to 82c or more if have the extra hot stat, at 90c.

fuel pressure needs to be verified ok.  It should be ok, but you never know for sure. unless checked.

good luck ! and cheers.

[1972]

these are the live data cold. ill test the maf using your method with multimeter. ill post results after test. thermostat on order from suzuki. fitted new temp sender for ecu, (2 wire or 1 wire. 2 is correct )

old one looked pretty ruggerd. the oxygen sensor is swinging lean to rich. i just screen shot live data. the maf dropped to 0.2 v to a maximum of 2.3 v. so ill bench test it

so far I am looking at all that and see nothing wrong cold engine ECT shows 21C so that is good but what is ECT hot. 82C is correct.
idle fast idle RPM cold looks great at 1261
advanced looks good.
looks good so far.
maf at idle is 6g/s  ,nomral.
The maf seems to swing ok , up to 2.3 is near 3v,  (takes   aggressive WOT to get 3v)  max MAF output us flying up a hill wot say in 3rd gear, hard.]
in fact max MAF out will be 95HP full HP.

TPS 0.6v is good near 1v is great at idle.

just make sure ECT rises to 82c or more if have the extra hot stat, at 90c.

fuel pressure needs to be verified ok.  It should be ok, but you never know for sure. unless checked.

good luck ! and cheers.

still waiting fot the fuel pressure gauge, i wish i had the money and fly you over to Australia and fix it for me.! i forgot to add like you first asked yes it runs rough both hot and cold and at any speed or revs. ill post up some more reading tomorrow once it is hot. could i adjust the tps using the scan tool or bench test it like you showed me. thanks again