Modifying CKP sensor to work with oil pan gasket [96+]

[Samistine]

I don’t have any issues with stalling and I have not gotten another code yet.
The idle seems a bit rough (every few seconds), but I don’t have experience with high mileage cars and/or cars this old. My daily driver is a Ford C-Max Energi (Plug-in hybrid)

[fixkick]

It's getting old. lots of things fail on old cars (3000 + parts there)
EGR is one, (and if it leaks) see the main casing crack, or valve stick inside, or the PO skipped the gasket and it sucks air. oops.
the #4 exhaust tube (rear) loves to crack , suck air and cause the front 02 sensor to go nuts.
The MAF can just get dirty or go bad. (tap on side gently idling, no idle speed changes? or misfires?)
what is LTFT (long term fuel trim,) using the scan tool? hot engine idle..
Does the scan tool show 180f + engine coolant temperature hot engine (ECT sensor?) fully hot engine,drive 5miles and it must.
Bad FRONT ONLY o2 sensor, or its heater (heater is ok if no DTC shows heater failure) but the O2 sensors can be bad on the CELL side(o2 sIDE)
INTAKE AIR LEAKS (aka, vacuum leaks, cause the MAF to tell lies even with new MAF)
bad spark wire set, cap or rotor or plugs (full tune up cures this)
(cam belt horror, you now know)
What I do is drive it and scan and log data, using scan tool to capture all live sensor data. and judge my self what's up,

The DTC errors some are hidden until 2 or 3 driving cycles so diagnosing using only DTC only as the key factors , is weak.. (helpful but not if you see none)

if the car drives ok, then drive it, if something is wrong , it will get worse, as engines and EFI do not self repair, but if car was parked for a year, clean fuel will help or bottle of Chevron Techron can. (has very powerful benzine in it to clean injectors) I do not like additives but this can work, if injector issues only.

good luck with the 96, it is a good car, and can be kept up. just watch out for fake parts, sold. Cloned parts.
G'day ! and Cheers

[fixkick]

the ckp issue (if engine cam 'belt and cogs are perfect) and wires to sensor are perfect (means connectors too)
1: new sensors, 5 or more makers of sensors, and some my like thicker gasket, (who know this, would cost $200 or more to learn this)
2: sand sensor base.(mill the sensor say 1/16" of an inch or 1.5mm ) over 1mm is kinda scary to me, off hand thinking about it.
3: new pan install per 96,97,98,book , not 95 or older. (do not read Chilton or Haynes books of lies , the mix 10 years of information in a book of TOXIC soup, witches brew bad.)
4: the 2 wire to the sensor is shielded. if that is bad, the signal gets weaker and full of noise.

the sensor is here, it is just a coil of wire, and due to that fact is a very weak output, some cars are 0.5v pulse only at idle, and due to this fact (non hall sensors)
they (SUZUKI) put a shield on the cable,to keep that signal strong, so if that is damaged it can fail; easy ,for sure this car.,