Have a question about shifter bushing repair

[sina27]

Hello there, got a 96 tracker 2WD.
Shifter was making funny noises, hard to get in certain gears.
When installing the new shifter bushing (part 27), do I just drop it in? Or do I have to install it on the ball end of the shifter stick?
My shifter has an intact spring and cup. But, if the spring is weak, I'm assuming there wouldn't be enough force pressing down on the shifter onto / into the bottom shifter bushing? Unless the two side screws are meant for securing in the shifter?
The FixKick page has an in depth explanation for how to remove the stick shift, but no mention on how to correctly install the bushing and shifter.
I'm still curious if the two side screws (36) need to be loosened up, and when do I tighten them back up? When I press the shifter back in and tighten the cup, is that when I should tighten the screws to secure the shifter and entirety in place?

Thank You for all the help

One more question: When I initially removed the shifter and bushing, I noticed gear oil around the bottom of the bushing. Is that normal? When reassembling all the components, should I use some assembly lube?

[fixkick]

OK
step one is drop 27 into hole 30 (geased up) #27 needs to be new, and is sold only by suzuki for about $5
then 19 part next
2x 36 screws half installed,
the top cup is a twist lock cup, some can force down, and twist lock it
I find pushing it down and inserting 2x 36 screws while holding down is easier.
if he spring is not broken IT IS OK.

seen here PDF FSM, page 18, 7B18, install... steps. chapter 7B covers this tranny, see photo below excerpted
https://web.archive.org/web/201011190802...7B-pdf.htm

Hello there, got a 96 tracker 2WD.
Shifter was making funny noises, hard to get in certain gears. (27 is bad)
When installing the new shifter bushing (part 27), do I just drop it in? yes,
Or do I have to install it on the ball end of the shifter stick? (no)
My shifter has an intact spring and cup.
But, if the spring is weak, (NO it is not) I'm assuming there wouldn't be enough force pressing down on the shifter onto / into the bottom shifter bushing? (the force is huge, after its installed you will yell, dang that spring is strong. I promise)

Unless the two side screws are meant for securing in the shifter? (they do nothing else)
The FixKick page has an in depth explanation for how to remove the stick shift, but no mention on how to correctly install the bushing and shifter.
I'm still curious if the two side screws (36) need to be loosened up, and when do I tighten them back up? When I press the shifter back in and tighten the cup, is that when I should tighten the screws to secure the shifter and entirety in place?

Thank You for all the help

One more question:
When I initially removed the shifter and bushing, I noticed gear oil around the bottom of the bushing.
Is that normal? NO, not normal some folks think that can refill GL4 lube here, and is impossible, so we clean that out and used grease.
When reassembling all the components, should I use some assembly lube?

Suzuki uses one line of text, #1, (its hard to compress it and turn it like this) but if you look like BIG FOOT, it's kids play, LOL!@

[fixkick]

yes assembly lube or just light grease.

[sina27]

Thank you, that really clears things up. I took a look, and it seems that I accidentally installed the bushing upside down the first time I did it..maybe that could have caused the oil to leak in there?
Anyways, Eeerything is shifting much more smoothy now.

OK
step one is drop 27 into hole 30 (geased up) #27 needs to be new, and is sold only by suzuki for about $5
then 19 part next
2x 36 screws half installed
the top cup is a twist lock cup, some can force down, and twist lock it
I find pushing it down and inserting 2x 36 screws while holding down is easier.
if he spring is not broken IT IS OK.

seen here PDF FSM, page 18, 7B18, install... steps. chapter 7B covers this tranny, see photo below excerpted
https://web.archive.org/web/201011190802...7B-pdf.htm

Hello there, got a 96 tracker 2WD.
Shifter was making funny noises, hard to get in certain gears. (27 is bad)
When installing the new shifter bushing (part 27), do I just drop it in? yes,
Or do I have to install it on the ball end of the shifter stick? (no)
My shifter has an intact spring and cup.
But, if the spring is weak, (NO it is not) I'm assuming there wouldn't be enough force pressing down on the shifter onto / into the bottom shifter bushing? (the force is huge, after its installed you will yell, dang that spring is strong. I promise)

Unless the two side screws are meant for securing in the shifter? (they do nothing else)
The FixKick page has an in depth explanation for how to remove the stick shift, but no mention on how to correctly install the bushing and shifter.
I'm still curious if the two side screws (36) need to be loosened up, and when do I tighten them back up? When I press the shifter back in and tighten the cup, is that when I should tighten the screws to secure the shifter and entirety in place?

Thank You for all the help

One more question:
When I initially removed the shifter and bushing, I noticed gear oil around the bottom of the bushing.
Is that normal? NO, not normal some folks think that can refill GL4 lube here, and is impossible, so we clean that out and used grease.
When reassembling all the components, should I use some assembly lube?

Suzuki uses one line of text, #1, (its hard to compress it and turn it like this) but if you look like BIG FOOT, it's kids play, LOL!@

[fixkick]

there is no way for GL4 to go there,
only humans did that wrong,
first it have to push past all 3 of these, then
push past the shifter extensions. and filll this huge pit full of GL4, some may land here but it will ever fill up full, and for sure higher.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/shifting/cheating1.jpg

the only way I know is using those cheap OilQuick lube places and where they use compressed air to shove GL5 lube in the right side filler port, under huge pressure,
your discover is common, many think oil goes there, but is not true, nor is is self lubed there ,from case bottom up.
the manual tells you what to do. and is assem lube, all that , there, all rails and all extension rails lubed, and the #27 plastic too.
the whole book is there get it keep it!
https://web.archive.org/web/201011190802...7B-pdf.htm


here is the lube, used

https://www.handsontools.com/Kent-Moore-...13139.html


id say any assembly lube for trans is ok,

the maker calls out a specific lube, that is unknown to them so they guess GL4 , on page 30 of the manual, j36850 transmission assembly lube.

[fixkick]

bottom right see tools required,

[fixkick]

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/5speed-rebuild.html
this page covers highlights of the job, not the 38 pages here.
the 7 steps are there for disassemble but the reverse is the same, for this housing.

7: Or hold down the CUP, against that strong spring and remove both #36 screws. Bam its off. Do not lose those 2 special screws #36

here is my step 7, and how to do it in reverse depends on how strong your hands are, i found pushing it down and inserting the 2 screws the most easy.
but it is CUP twist locking cap, for sure. you can see the twist log cut outs on the cap easy, and is the biggest hint those.

i OCRd the book, here added now.
7B is 5speed box.

http://ge.tt/6gvplbp2

[fixkick]

just clean it
lube it , with assemb lube. or gel.
new 27 plastic, it fits tight and ends the sloppy shifts in all cases this is it . fails easy. for sure not lubed.
and twist lock CUP down with #36 screws, loose turn 90deg, CW to lock it down. per manual.
or push it down such that the slots align with #36 holes. and then insert both screws 1 at a time. (i found this more easy.)

[sina27]

Thank You!
I went ahead and used a bit of ordinary assembly lube around the bottom of the shifter and around the plastic bushing. I'm still waiting for the new bushing to arrive from
LowRangeOffRoad, so I will repeat the process.
I'm not 100% certain the oil I initially saw in there was gear oil. It could have been assembly lube...but it was not very viscous (maybe because I had just finished driving).
The oil I saw was at the very bottom right where the plastic bushing sits. When i removed the bushing, I saw oil only a couple millimeters thick. I cleaned it out with a towel. I then stuck my finger in there at the very bottom, when i did that, it looked like a bit more oil seeped in through the sides, from the bottom of where the plastic bushing sits. The oil was a but grey in color.
I found a new gear shift lever online and got it shipped from Japan (it was around 60 dollars). I did this because the bottom boot on mine was very torn, and I want to make sure there is a good seal. So if anyone wants my old gearshift lever (with intact spring), I am happy to give it away as long as you pay for shipping.

just clean it
lube it , with assemb lube. or gel.
new 27 plastic, it fits tight and ends the sloppy shifts in all cases this is it . fails easy. for sure not lubed.
and twist lock CUP down with #36 screws, loose turn 90deg, CW to lock it down. per manual.
or push it down such that the slots align with #36 holes. and then insert both screws 1 at a time. (i found this more easy.)

[sina27]

just clean it
lube it , with assemb lube. or gel.
new 27 plastic, it fits tight and ends the sloppy shifts in all cases this is it . fails easy. for sure not lubed.
and twist lock CUP down with #36 screws, loose turn 90deg, CW to lock it down. per manual.
or push it down such that the slots align with #36 holes. and then insert both screws 1 at a time. (i found this more easy.)

Hi FixKick,

So some bad news - as I was replacing the part 27 bushing, I was trying to fish it out, and the plastic bushing fell into the side walls right above where the bushing sits (and right below where part 19 sits). I couldn't get the bushing out. I fit in another 27 bushing, and everything is working and shifting smoothly - but should I be worried about the one I dropped into the speedbox? Where could the bushing end up?

Thank You
Sina