TH180 - Cable to Connect to Throttle

[redline814]

I have been a fan of your page since I found it. Great resource! I have a Suzuki Samurai that has parts from just about every other vehicle. So...telling you what I have is tough. The components are a mashup of a Suzuki 2.0 engine connected to a 3 speed TH180 transmission.

I just replaced a leaking kickdown cable on the TH180 transmission.

I used your picture to show what I am in need of (not my exact throttle body setup, but close enough)...
The cable on the engine end (red) of the kick down cable is not long enough to reach the throttle. I need the cable (blue) that allow me to complete the connection. Do you know what the name of that part is? I cannot seem to find it.

[fixkick]

no sure what you are asking,
the 2.0L J18 is near same as J18 , very close, (j20 is stroked J18)
but the suzuki sport only has j18 no 3L30 box sold with it (th180 base)
so you are putting on a G16 cable on J20 engine, that can not work, as you can see.
id not think anyone else is doing this, so no extension cables sold.
The problem is trying all J20 cables made used in all J20 cars, by suzuki, but many are FWD front wheel drive,.
an most got rid if the cable and just used TPS, signals. That then get sent to the TCM brain and it just shifts off of TPS values. cable free. but that is 4 speed, as the Sport is. j18
the 3L30 has no TCM so the problem you have is finding all 3L30 cables made, not an easy job to research that,
The TC180 is 1970 design pure mechanical and electr, TCC.
i bet only custom adaptions can work.
the other issue is most 4doors, use 4speed + TCM this is because the 3speed really is not upto the loaded weight of any 4door , for cargo loaded and trailer.
so they all have 4 speed, for doors (or stick)
the 2 door car only weighs dry , 2000lbs. (box kite light) one can bend the doors, by force of hand, that light.
the mail carries, UPS< contractor drive old RHD car, with TH180,, Grumman LLV 1987–1994
here is my list. of possible cables.

3L30 TH180: The 3 speed box. 1968 to 1999?. Pure Hyramatics. (but may or may not have TCC)

1981–1986 Bitter SC
1971–1975 Opel Ascona A/Manta A/Rekord 1900
1969–1973 Opel GT
1971–1983 Fiat 124
1975–1978 Fiat 131
1975–1981 Fiat Brava
1977–1979 Peugeot 604
1981–1982 Fiat Spider
1983– Rover Vitesse
–1984 Rover 2300/2600
1969–1975 Opel Olympia; Kadett B/C
1968–1986 Some Opel-Vehicles (for example Opel Rekord-C to E and Opel Commodore-A to C Series)
1978–1987 Chevrolet Chevette (most smart people, crushed the car and sold it as raw metal in brick form to USS.)
1981–1987 Pontiac T1000
1987–1994 Grumman LLVeh. postal van 100,000 USPS postal RHD cars. LL = long life.
1989–1998 Suzuki Sidekick , mostly on USA 2 door cars. or Vitara's 2door, world side and Santana, and Canada Sun Runners.
1989–1998 Geo Tracker (ditto)
1969–1980 Holden Torana
1970–1980 Holden Belmont/Kingswood/Premier/GTS
1970–1971 Holden Brougham
1970–1977 Holden Monaro
1971–1984 Statesman
1978–1988 Holden Commodore

[redline814]

Thanks for your detailed thoughts and info I can look into. When I get home tonight I will take a picture of my real life setup. I'm thinking I might be able to use a bicycle brake cable...cut off an end and connect it to the end of the kick down cable.

[fixkick]

yes , to extend a cable,
you have 2 choices, sure ,
solder it (lead tin, 60% tin)
silver solder it
braze it.
use only steel rated flux.
the problem is after that it jams in to the sheath opening.
building a Y bridge bracket that holds 2 cables 180degr apart, and stock on the right, and new short cable solder or brass clamp connected to you motor cycle cable (has bigger ends on MC)
then the center part can float in mid space of the Y tips, allowing both cables to move freely.

see these, the top one left and #4 down from top is the clamps.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-MOTOR...:rk:5:pf:0

a cable can be extended but needs a custom clamp. and Y bracket

the only other way, is all new center of cable end to end and then add longer sheath extension piece to ether end , top end best, do to more dry.

[fixkick]

no lie cables are not fun, i have repair ends before, and solder ends new back, using the most strong solder.

[redline814]

The jam in the sheath opening will likely be an issue I will need to address. But I like options and that motorcycle kit looks like the parts I need to pull this together!

[redline814]

Here is an actual picture of the TB setup. I will see if connecting 2 cables will work.

[fixkick]

wow the cable reaches the mount, amazed it does on J20
well just extend the cable with the parts I posted , for motor cycles, but I think bicycles are to small and frail.

for sure this can be done far more easy.... the special clamps and spare center lines are all you need.
than if the right side seen there, did not reach,.

[redline814]

Reaches the mount...but I would prefer there be more slack. I had to pull it fairly tight. I might make a different bracket. One that moved the bottom cable mount a few inches back. That way I may not have to worry about the wire connector getting wound up in the sheath. I already ordered the motorcycle parts you mentioned to complete the job!

I will weld an extension on the existing plate and move it back.

BTW - Here is the detail of replacing the cable (lots of pictures). https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzuki/2...floor.html

[fixkick]

sure just cut the mount and extend it with steel plate weld back to where this is some slack.
I agree, seems like you have all figured out, thanks for sharing.
and the shared, links . love those !

Reaches the mount...but I would prefer there be more slack. I had to pull it fairly tight. I might make a different bracket. One that moved the bottom cable mount a few inches back. That way I may not have to worry about the wire connector getting wound up in the sheath. I already ordered the motorcycle parts you mentioned to complete the job!

I will weld an extension on the existing plate and move it back.

BTW - Here is the detail of replacing the cable (lots of pictures). https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/suzuki/2...floor.html