93 Sidekick Floods and stalls when warm

[Brucepalma]

93. Sidekick and it keeps flooding and stalling when warm. I hooked up a noid light On the injectors and it flashes really good. When it is about to stall it gets brighter starts to food and then stalls. New rebuild motor. New distributor,cap,wire, plug, ignition module, heat sensors, O2 sensor and computer redone. Timing has been set, sometimes it will run good for a day or two then back to the same thing. The fuel pressure is good. New fuel filter. I trade the MAF with another working one same problem. Any sujestions. Bruce

[fixkick]

93 sidekick what,? 2door, 4doors, 2wd, 4wd, transmissions 3 or 4 or 5speed stick? its real good to know this first. what car is it? (this tells me what wiring harness you have)

you said injectors with an 'S" so is 16valves G16B engine,

floods, so step one is talk to the ECU ! (the quasi Vulcan mind meld deal" Spook, RIP)
insert the diagnosis jumper clip (paper clip ,unbent) into the DLC connector in front of the battery, (the DLC had rubber cap new car) the wire colors for sure give it away.

http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html#OBD1codes
on above page click finding the DLC connector. covers 89-2004 trackers)

The CEL must flash 12s. if not , all codes you see there are limphome (not code 51)
limphome mode, is flooding mode. every time.
you saw the NOID go brighter, that is heavy fuel, the ECU did that, and did so in most cases due to wrong inputs (it's just computer inside, and inputs must be correct)

you can drive endlessly with the DLC DIAG connector pulled in, it is harmless. and doing so finds INTERMITTENCY.


if the CEL (check engine lamp) if will not flash on demand, that means its a FEDERAL car (USA fed) and has USA FED NAG switch, slide the nag one time to the other side and now 12s happen.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/NAG-Lamp.html

day1: fixes. (my list)
make sure the front crank pulley front 17mm big bolt head, is set to 94ft/lbs torque, do this first. day 1 , for any kick car new to the barn. or bad happens. easy.
make sure the ECU CAP in the corner(lid off) is not black plastic shelled and not marked Rubicon, (as all those are dead) aka RECapping. ( up to 3 caps can be bad at one time)
i remove the nag switch if found, i just remove it, it has no function now,only makes diagnosis more hard, for sure if loving to crawl on knees finding the darn thing....

[fixkick]

if code 12s and it floods, hot.
then first check for coolant that is not hot, (180f or more is hot, below 150 is bad news) we check for hot first. with and IR gun.
If it really is hot, then the ECT sensor will read (unplugged) about 300 ohms (ohm meter checked at ECT 2 pins)
the ECU only reports ECT shorted or dead open,hard fails, not reading way off, errors.,

you said new heat sensors, there are 3.
ECT at thermostat housing. engine coolant temp. (many times folks replace this and get the wrong one, SUZUKI has many and so easy to do or buy china clones that are junk)
IAT (on air cleaner box, but some 93 have none)
and dash 1 wire sensor for H<>L engine temp.
next is O2:
O2 sensors new, fails too with exhaust leaks or wires to it wrecked, taKE OFF THE heat shields yet and see if #4 exh. tube is cracked,? as most are, on the 16v but never on 8v.
the O2 if it sticks at 0v out, the engine goes horribly rich. In most cases the ECU will not warn of this...(unlike newer cars do , 96+)

there is no OTC scan tools for this car, so we must do tests to find out of ECU is confused and way, with meter. and such.

this can suck air (putt suck putt suck putt suck air)
if its not too bad its ok, if it sucks air the 02 rails.
rails means slammed to 0volts DC.
0v = rich as pig.

[fixkick]

one guy here found some very special hot rated epoxy that seal this, up(above photo). for exhaust system rated. (at least a stop gap measure or to test)
most 16v do this, if still stock is yours stock>?
all parts original on car?, , still have a CAT?

good luck to you !

[Brucepalma]

93 sidekick what,? 2door, 4doors, 2wd, 4wd, transmissions 3 or 4 or 5speed stick? its real good to know this first. what car is it? (this tells me what wiring harness you have)

you said injectors with an 'S" so is 16valves G16B engine,

floods, so step one is talk to the ECU ! (the quasi Vulcan mind meld deal" Spook, RIP)
insert the diagnosis jumper clip (paper clip ,unbent) into the DLC connector in front of the battery, (the DLC had rubber cap new car) the wire colors for sure give it away.

http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html#OBD1codes
on above page click finding the DLC connector. covers 89-2004 trackers)

The CEL must flash 12s. if not , all codes you see there are limphome (not code 51)
limphome mode, is flooding mode. every time.
you saw the NOID go brighter, that is heavy fuel, the ECU did that, and did so in most cases due to wrong inputs (it's just computer inside, and inputs must be correct)

you can drive endlessly with the DLC DIAG connector pulled in, it is harmless. and doing so finds INTERMITTENCY.


if the CEL (check engine lamp) if will not flash on demand, that means its a FEDERAL car (USA fed) and has USA FED NAG switch, slide the nag one time to the other side and now 12s happen.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/NAG-Lamp.html

day1: fixes. (my list)
make sure the front crank pulley front 17mm big bolt head, is set to 94ft/lbs torque, do this first. day 1 , for any kick car new to the barn. or bad happens. easy.
make sure the ECU CAP in the corner(lid off) is not black plastic shelled and not marked Rubicon, (as all those are dead) aka RECapping. ( up to 3 caps can be bad at one time)
i remove the nag switch if found, i just remove it, it has no function now,only makes diagnosis more hard, for sure if loving to crawl on knees finding the darn thing....

93 Sidekick JX 5 door 4X4 5 speed

[fetcher]

one guy here found some very special hot rated epoxy that seal this, up(above photo). for exhaust system rated. (at least a stop gap measure or to test)
most 16v do this, if still stock is yours stock>?
all parts original on car?, , still have a CAT?

good luck to you !

I had the same issue with the exhaust manifold, I think it results from the back cylinder being served the EGR gasses which causes the cast pipe
to operate at a different temperature. I tried to get the Thorley style headers but they were out of stock. Luckily, I found a local guy who's
shop specialized in cast iron repairs. My cast header was heated in their oven and brazed while hot. So far, it is holding.

[Brucepalma]

It still has the cat. I think it’s OS the temp sensor. I just ordered it. Found the link on how to read the codes. Thank you, Bruce

[fixkick]

go get em tiger !

Id love to see that guy weld cast Iron, its super SKILL set that, pre_heating it and special rod. thanks Fetcher.

yes #4 exh runner steals exhaust gasses and sends the through the head tunnel to the EGR main.


The OS sensor, (oxy ?) if it sticks to 0 volts, the ECU goes far far rick, way too rich, in 1996, they cured the way way to rich to way less, due to melting so many cat converters,.
On this car it can go super rich, for many reasons
O2 bad, sensor, sure.