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+--- Thread: Typical Newbie No-start/Timing stuff... (/thread-typical-newbie-no-start-timing-stuff)
Typical Newbie No-start/Timing stuff... - jmshawii - 06-19-2016
So, recently bought a '95, 16v, auto, 4x4, 2-door soft top. Bought it non-running because price was right and the guy I bought it from sounded like he knew them pretty well. I have had 3 others before and 2 sammies, so feel I KIND of know them as well. I am not an "educated" mechanic, but a pretty decent "self-educated"/shadetreee mechanic.
So, we (I have a friend that is an older, retired mechanic fella that we like to tinker together.) looked through everything we could think of, based on what prior owner had told us, and started to change fuel pump, but then after checking connectors I was able to get fuel pump working, so we went back to trying to start it. Had all fuel lines connected, but fuel tank still loose, JUST to make sure. She was trying to backfire a bit, and wouldn't start, and just sounded like timing was way off, even though PO claimed he had checked this. So we decided to check timing-seemed that when cam timing mark was at TDC, crank timing mark was about 90 degrees off! We reset it. She started right up, sounded great, idled and ran for several several minute spells while we looked it over, listened to it, reved it, etc. Once we were convinced it was GOOD, we turned it off, and left it sitting, as I was going to get new hardware (crews and bolts) to put fuel tank system back together and strapped back up with.
Took about 2 weeks to get back to it, so before putting it all back together, I went to restart it to make sure it was all still functioning, that my fuel pump connections were still making good connection, etc. She started, but HARD and ran rough. Got her to hold idle, but still was not smoothe, etc. Put most of fuel system back together, not convinced. We'd done nothing to it in the 2 weeks away.
Got another day when we both had some free time, and it wouldn't start at all.
Main question is WHAT could have happened between running great and running crappy without any outside interference? I am redoing everything using all of your advice on these pages, but just wondering if anyone can think of any logical explanation.
Oh, and THANK YOU for the page. GREAT info, GREAT advice, etc. Very GRATEFUL that you guys are here to help me!
Thanks!
RE: Typical Newbie No-start/Timing stuff... - fixkick - 06-20-2016
WELCOME!!
we call them field kicks or barn kicks
bad fuel in all of them.... and clogs the injector screens, 10micro screens, (yes, very very tiny) cure not simple, must be back flushed.
id not listen to anything a PO said, it only causes new owners to make bad assumptions, and is big waste of time that. (and parts) (IMO)!
here is what I do, on all barn-kicks. G16B 16v, MPI
2 door is the ground wire here ok> ??????????????????
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/Pump-Ground1.jpg
and the pink wire to the left not rusty in the connector there?
1: fuses good.
2: front crank pulley bolt 17mm (deep well) at 94/lbs, not less. if found way less panic.
3: key on CEL glows> if not fuses blown to ECU or ECU is in backup mode, (dead) , insert jumper DLC now, diagjump, and code 12 flashes , does it?
4: key on pump runs, for 3seconds and the fuel pressure gauge hits. 36-43 psi, if yes, starting will happen. running pressure drops to 6 PSI by FPR ACTIONs.
5: a tune works best here, if done spark happens, and must be time right, if cam was timed wrong so is spark, cam is first then spark time in 2nd.
if timed correctly the engine now runs on test fuel every time..(. spray ,runs 3seconds, spray , repeat) sounds ok, even with pump wires pulled ?
seen here, the pink wire , here? if engine floods, (wet spark tips) the pull this connector and run engine on test fuel, for testing engine and spark.....
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/Tl2w.jpg
6: if engine starts and runs on test fuel, and sounds ok, there are many other tests.
injectors can leak, or clog.
BAD fuel kills all EFI engines,
all do.
the injectors gum up..... and fail.
other causes.
well flooding, ?
and bad spark? (tune ups cure this and no gas engine runs with bad spark,, or weak)
and IAC stuck closed. (lack of air) so crank with 5% throttle to hide this valves failure to open cold. ( its thermal and found below the TB body)
id have new wires,cap/rotor/spark plugs on it. gapped to .028" never at .045" out of box size is WRONG,.