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EGR stall test question - Printable Version

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RE: EGR stall test question - zukitrek - 08-19-2014

I think I will film the stall test and you let me know. All I can say is that is bottle necking to Bad EGRT or the 4 ports from hell. Big question, why I never ever got a 51 under such neglected/dirty conditions and now I get the dreaded 51?

It does not make sense. It should have been a 51 and then proceed to cleaning and testing.

Really bugs me. Just thinking out loud.

RE: EGR stall test question - zukitrek - 08-19-2014

Here is the video sir.
This is failing big time compared to the video you have, that car really shakes like a wet dog!! So my suspicion is the 4 ports from hell. I'll do the other test you suggested in the meantime but Mani is coming out.

Will let you know.

RE: EGR stall test question - fixkick - 08-19-2014

what will be, will be. fate.
the exhaust path here fail. often (100x ) in failsafe(limphome mode) Limp = carbon to the max ,unburned fuel.
ok, the stall test fails, hard.

first keep the hope thing going, that is how i do it , others ripe off both manifolds and clean every inch, (if i was still 19, the latter, "wild man with wrench" now more lazy... hehehehehe
ok, first remove the EGR main and clean it and do the bark test next

the engine will shake very very hard at 400 rpm and nasty exhaust fumes as INDUCTION, keep in mind EGR is never open at idle , just for this reason (ECU logic)

i think you already did the bark test on the EGR main port.
and tested the EGR main, it opens and flows. (blow tests)
so those dang quad ports are packed. (please share your experiences fix those, nobody has, cept my purple lined intake drawings)

what id do is attempt to do (never reported here) is find the TRUE bore size, called drillings, in the factory i think the rear is welsh plugs. they are missing at factory day one casting
then they drill them with very long bores bars. but what is the size. we can find this by cleaning one with what ever. and then using drill shanks to find TRUE size
no one has yet reported this.
if we knew this we could just use drills to redrill the ports, at the output port side. easy.
say start at 1/2 size then do full size, see?

on my car it has 2 , 11mm ports. one in head one in intake, mono port. for long time i thought it was 9mm but was wrong, it really was never fully clean.
now it it gets reamed, to spec. size and i enjoy longer service.

RE: EGR stall test question - zukitrek - 08-20-2014

I guess the diameter has to be an specific size, i mean I should not widen them? Let me tell you I did inserted a hangers wire tip at a 90 degree angle from each intake opening and then a long wire from the EGR port and lots of crap came out until I could blow air without restrictions(did not use any cleaners or degreasers) , but this was very late at night and car had to be ready next morning. Having tested almost everything this code 51 points to clogged mini ports from HELL!!. I did my best but I know it was not enough. I will do it friday night and let it soak in degreaser or bad idea? One thing there is not much space in those output ports right? How can drilling be possible?

Yes bark test was done, with video and you mentioned that it passed.(exhaust 4 port seems clean) as well as cleaning 3 times EGR main and testing diaphragm (need to do the leak down test though).

You mentioned in a past post in this thread to bypass p-q nipples to test EGR main, using a long hose connected to a TB port? Could you specify which is the one?


RE: EGR stall test question - fixkick - 08-20-2014

no do not widen them they are injectors. they are calibrated. as all injectors are. fuel or EGR
sure coat hanger it , in a real shop for years, the mech ., throws the whole intake in the trash, imagine a $1000 + bill for that.
clean it best can , no aNAL RETENTION HERE, it gets dirty fast. its exhaust, after all.
then make an effort to to the the nozzles 100% clean the last 1/2" or the last narrow part fully 100% clean, the whole ORIFICE. i use drills and (i have full number set 1 to 6) and work
it till i get alum, shavings, just tiny bit.. so at SHINE.
then blow on each port (nozzle) to see if each blows same to EGR main, hole.
yes, its DONE. the INTAKE is done
but do also clean the rear port on the intake that EGR bark port to to the tunnel tube.
then the tunnel, ream it out too.
that is how i do it. (if my bark is weak , i clean the exh #4 EGR "U" turn. (my intake has a S bend section on input too.)

have 2x , 3 foot extra vacuum lines, no tools try this, i just added, it, I use vacuum tools and T fittings but this works too.

RE: EGR stall test question - zukitrek - 08-20-2014

(08-18-2014, 07:43 PM)fixkick Wrote: no vacuum still, then the TB port vacuum port in the throttle body is parked full of crud.

This is the TB port I refer to that you talk about. You know where that is?


RE: EGR stall test question - fixkick - 08-20-2014

my best guess, is the CAR 1994 need the main read drive shaft turning to do a real live test.
i should publish a cheaters guide to test EGR and no tools.
with a vacuum hand pump tool all this is easy, with out , fun and tricks, seem them all and have done them in the woods wheeling many a time, and help, all in trouble there. for free.

one can do this.
by pass things,
use engine raw vacuum as my hand pump tool does. (no meter) but can steal vacuum i can.
i can unplug the VSV elect. connector , force the VSV valve to OPEN .
I blow test things and suck test them (using fresh clean hose so i dont eat benzene)
if rich i can buy a $10 warfart dmm and check the VSV pins for proper voltage, dirt cheap. 1/10 cost of 1 hour shop labor. free really.
i can fool the ECU with 10k resistor. (any)
i can clean all paths,for EGR exhuast, (just wrenches) and i can blow test this. and fully bench test the EGR main.
the EGR main it can do the finger block test to simulate (poorly) the diaphram leak down test..
ask for help. can do ..

the same blister pack with T fittings, is a SHOP tool. with out it ,we are really helpless babes.

RE: EGR stall test question - zukitrek - 08-20-2014

Yes sir. My other suspicion is that the BARK port even though it flows it is not a 100% carbon free. Why? Because EGRT went as low as 12.6ohms with the boil test, but not in car with engine fully hot. So not all of the exhaust is flowing thru there. This saturday I will be a free man, as the truth will reveal upon me!! Kind of a poetic way of saying thats it!! jajaja

Take care, and I do will let you know.

RE: EGR stall test question - fixkick - 08-20-2014

keep in mind the flow must be good end to end for the exhaust to hit full heat,
like a water hose, if the end is blocked water can not flow, so no need to test BIB, for flow.
everytime i take of and intake man
the head tunnel gets reamed.
it's a target of opportunity, and very easy to do. using a drill.

your sensor is good, if its not packed in carbon its 100% good. im sure.
what you need is flow, the purpose of the sensor is to find FLOW, using HEAT as the proof.
but i do not know the pass/ fail ohms.
my guess is its like 15k min. pass. or lower. the FSm fails to show full dynamic range so i must presume its a number in the published range, that being about 15k.
15,000 Ohms or less. best guess.
id do know 10k passes both tests) 51/53. so there is one more secret data point, not publisheb by suz, or geo.

now lets pretend we are stealerships. double it for labor.
EGR main with probe $300
new exh manfold , $300
new intake. $1000
new head, (tunnel clogged to lazy to clean it, bums) $1000

we dont need to do any of that.
do the tests, find true cause.
or clean it all and do the tests, if still failed.
but do check the VSV first. seen them fail lots of time. the ohms tests is like what 60 seconds and bench test it with 12v battery , 5min worK. all easy work.

the MOD bypass test can prove a bad cat or clogged tunnel easy.

RE: EGR stall test question - zukitrek - 08-20-2014

Yes that is why I'm going forward in cleaning the whole thing (i still have the energy and I like doing it, no stealership or work$$hop is going to input that much care in a car that is not theirs!!)
Thus that way I make it right from end to end. Yes probe is good, tt measured 12.6.ohms Remember the boil test? Now that #4 exst port and the 4 intake little ones, those I'm not sure so off the mani goes.

(08-20-2014, 02:26 AM)fixkick Wrote: no need to test BIB, for flow.

What is the BIB?

Is soaking the IM in degreaser overnight, bad idea? Please let me know as I know some degreaser eat away aluminum.
I will do the other tests anyways before going to the IM, just to rule out all other possibilities.