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1.6 16V NO LOAD miss from 1000 to 3000 R.P.M. - Printable Version

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+--- Thread: 1.6 16V NO LOAD miss from 1000 to 3000 R.P.M. (/thread-1-6-16v-no-load-miss-from-1000-to-3000-r-p-m)



1.6 16V NO LOAD miss from 1000 to 3000 R.P.M. - Lon - 05-22-2014

For all you suzukiologists, I am having a problem with my 1993 5 speed fuel injected 1.6 liter 16 valve sidekick.
It starts instantly, accelerates fine, pulls well on hills but misses when cursing under NO LOAD from 1000 to 3000 R.P.M. in any gear, slight raw gas smell .
Any suggestions?

Lon


RE: 1.6 16V NO LOAD miss from 1000 to 3000 R.P.M. - fixkick - 05-22-2014

sorry for your plight !!

CEL out running? check engine light out?

its rich misfiring, and probably not holding closed loop at cursing (Sigmund Freud was here).
The oxy sensor is not working (is exhaust head tube 4 cracked) or bottom header collector donut gasket bad, sucking in air?
it may be in limphome mode, too.
is MPG bad? (horrid)

1: IS ENGINE FULLY HOT, 180f MIN?
2: is CEL out.
3: is 02 new? less than 100,000 miles old?
4: is exh. cracked or leaking before the CAT.
5: huge air leak in the total air intake path? examine with eyes, there can be no leaks behind the FAM sensor or it can go lean.


is the ECU flashing code 12?


RE: 1.6 16V NO LOAD miss from 1000 to 3000 R.P.M. - Lon - 05-23-2014

(05-22-2014, 08:54 AM)fixkick Wrote: sorry for your plight !!

CEL out running? check engine light out?

its rich misfiring, and probably not holding closed loop at cursing (Sigmund Freud was here).
The oxy sensor is not working (is exhaust head tube 4 cracked) or bottom header collector donut gasket bad, sucking in air?
it may be in limphome mode, too.
is MPG bad? (horrid)

1: IS ENGINE FULLY HOT, 180f MIN?
2: is CEL out.
3: is 02 new? less than 100,000 miles old?
4: is exh. cracked or leaking before the CAT.
5: huge air leak in the total air intake path? examine with eyes, there can be no leaks behind the FAM sensor or it can go lean.
is the ECU flashing code 12?

Thanks for your reply and help
First off, car has Headman headers.
mileage is 24.5 .........freeway, city and puttin around the dairy in 1st & 2nd gear
O2 sensor is 2 years old
water temp .... looking at the temp gage as if it were a fuel gage, it MIGHT get to 1/4 tank.
previous owner tells me radiator is from a car with A/C , car has no A/C , also has no stock fan or fan shroud. has 14" electric fan, but no reason to run it.
Exhaust . I do not hear any leaks at the header to exhaust pipe joint.
but if the headers were designed to run "open" a leak should not effect the O2 sensor , right?
Intake system is in good condition
don't understand "CEL"
no "check engine" light
where do I look to see "ECU flashing 12" ?
added a ground wire from the battery to the engine, tightened the + battery cable and covered about 1/3ed of the radiator with cardboard. No changes
may be a bad thermostat.

Again .THANKS FOR THE HELP !!!!!!!!!!


RE: 1.6 16V NO LOAD miss from 1000 to 3000 R.P.M. - fixkick - 05-26-2014

glad to help you,

93 16v
misfiring, light cruise.


First off, car has Headman headers.
mileage is 24.5 .........freeway, city and puttin around the dairy in 1st & 2nd gear (its not in limphome mode, good)
O2 sensor is 2 years old
water temp .... looking at the temp gage as if it were a fuel gage, it MIGHT get to 1/4 tank. (seems ok)
previous owner tells me radiator is from a car with A/C , car has no A/C , also has no stock fan or fan shroud. has 14" electric fan, but no reason to run it.
the engine rad must have a fan working or the engine will overheat, idling, (takes a while but will) when stopped there is no rad air flow, unless the fan is ON, period, no air low, means no cooling can happen.stopped

is the clutch fan missing too? with the shroud?



Exhaust . I do not hear any leaks at the header to exhaust pipe joint.
but if the headers were designed to run "open" a leak should not effect the O2 sensor , right?

Sorry, NO, this engine ECU runs a closed loop oxygen sensor, and it (O2) must work or the engine will misfire or bog.
but at WOT or acceleration the 02 is shut down, called open loop. and the 02 is not used, at all.
On your engine the MAF dictates wide open fuel rates , not the 02. but your car fails in closed loop mode.
cruise is that. as is idle.



Intake system is in good condition
don't understand "CEL" check engine lamp, you insert the jumper and it flashes code 12s, almost all old cars do this, honda's toyota. etc.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/cel-index.html
no "check engine" light (it must glow keyon and turn off running, all cars made 1988 to now)
where do I look to see "ECU flashing 12" ? the CEL flashes ON DEMAND by YOU.
added a ground wire from the battery to the engine, tightened the + battery cable and covered about 1/3ed of the radiator with cardboard. No changes
may be a bad thermostat.

i use a pyro gun to check temps, no burned fingers for $19 out of pocket.$

http://www.harborfreight.com/infrared-thermometer-93984.html#.UxSEdoUTnuE

finds bad rad fin tubes (clogged tubes) and bad thermostats easy.

i use a rubber hose to my ear, and listen to the exhaust header flange for putt putt putt sounds, bad if you hear that.
or any cracks in header to front of CAT, still have a CAT./?



Again .THANKS FOR THE HELP !!!!!!!!!!


you car is not OBD2, (1996+)
so is harder to diagnose, due to no ability to scan it.
we can not see what the ECU sees?
we are blind here.
but for sure:
1: coolant above 180f. no ever less and must hold there not cycle. (wrong thermostat, upside down, bleed hole not up, or the rubber ring around it missing.)
2: 02 sensor bad, or air leaks near by.
the Exhaust system does not just blow, it also sucks, at each PUTT the inside goes to a vacuum on all cars.
and this momentary vacuum finds any hole or crank, and that 20% oxygen in air , just makes the o2 lie its buns off.
it dont damage it , it only makes it lie.

what happens is the ECU slams rich, and you smell that, and it misfires.
it can very by speed and load this effect. i find all leaks easy with a rubber hose , duct taped (amazing stuff) to a metal or wooden stick
I hold the stick and wave it near everything there, idling, never getting burned on 1500F deg. parts there.

see?

50cents of hose. does that so easy.
do not get ears next to hot parts.
use a hose.

the electric fan is great, but must be connected to a thermostatic switch,
i bet its missing. most PO.s wont do this right, they just guess.
there are 2 kinds of thermo switch
one is clamped to the RAD tank
and other is to a hose.
the best is the summit racing hose adapters with built in switch, its works like newer cars have.

on a 1996 car, we connect the OBD2 scanner and see the o2 sensor going nuts at light cruise.
and Closed loop failing.
and LTFT way off. zero
here is a free OBD1 tool, the only one on earth, (tech1/2 are $2000)
just a cable is needed,here.

http://rhinopower.activeboard.com/f489141/rhinoview-diagnostic-software/

if you use this , you too can see closed loop.
and LTFT and the o2 sensor swing.

here is my obd1 page

http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/Tech1/full_scan2.html

you can see ECT temps, and all 31 PIDS, all 31 live data parameters....!!!

dont for get to clean the MAF.
do so 6 " to 12" away from the element
using CRC maf cleaner, sold in all good stores.

clean it. gently.
the element cokes up and causes lean misfiring.