Driving 97 kick tach after J18A engine swap - Printable Version +- Car Repair Forum (https://fixkick.com/forum) +-- Forum: Suzuki (https://fixkick.com/forum/forum-suzuki) +--- Forum: Sidekick/Tracker (https://fixkick.com/forum/forum-sidekick-tracker) +--- Thread: Driving 97 kick tach after J18A engine swap (/thread-driving-97-kick-tach-after-j18a-engine-swap) |
RE: Driving 97 kick tach after J18A engine swap - maroka - 09-16-2020 Yeah about the pan, I guess you could get a pan with pick up from a kick sport but they're really rare where I'm from, so custom was the way to go. It is by no means pretty, but it works. Here are a few photos of the pan: https://photos.app.goo.gl/C2eS7um3EXaTsLqk7 We used a MIG welder. Trick is to weld slowly to prevent the flange that mates to the engine from warping. RE: Driving 97 kick tach after J18A engine swap - fixkick - 09-16-2020 (09-16-2020, 08:13 AM)maroka Wrote: Yeah about the pan, I guess you could get a pan with pick up from a kick sport but they're really rare where I'm from, so custom was the way to go. It is by no means pretty, but it works.all that needs to be done and not put dirt in the engine, must be kept clean. that pickup screen is to block dead bugs and the like. not at all does it protect the engine from dirt. (sand grit and the like are doom) the dirt will wreck all bearing shells. fast, Like sand paper does to say a cell phone screen . I forgot to warn you, the newer suzuki ECU j18, have removed the DLC pin for timing freeze , a HUGE horror that. so that only the SUZUKI dealer SCAN tool system can do that act, the year matters on this, and FSM book matters to learn this bad act. the DCL pin names if know also tells if this is true (seen about 2004) IIRC one simple cure for this is to match mark the left rear cam CMP sensor to the head, with marks from carpenter, center punch so the timing is never lost. (my trick) simple and effective on all CPMs with the curved arc, adjustment mount. (cam angle sensor , LR cam end) cheers and good luck you and your all your family;. J18A engine swap and hard to get parts - fixkick - 09-16-2020 sports are rare, super rare , about 10 to 1, less made than the G16 car. (and is a better car the j18) USA figures. the consumer reports of infamous "roll overs" caused all that, then for years lasting effects,, and sales fell like a rock , all is history now. and suzuki filed bankruptcy usa then Canada for cars only (not ATV stuff) 8 years ago? all from one useless magazine. (the power of the press is frankly scary) 15000 cars is pathetic sales. (suzuki usa) toyota sold 150k cars in one month, 130k average for every 1 car sold by suzuki toy sold 200. that is why used parts are hard to find and why other makers of 3part parts, do not want to support so few cars on the road. (USA ) suzuki does great outside USA /canada RE: Driving 97 kick tach after J18A engine swap - maroka - 09-17-2020 It's a shame really, they're good cars. Super strong chassis/running gear. "I drive an offroad car, but I maintain a normal car" is what my dad uses to justify still owning an fixing that thing. He bought it 8 years ago and it's actually appreciated in value since then. At least here, good kick/tracker (we call them Vitara) is hard to come by and even if you do, it costs the same as a BMW x3/x5. Parts are plentiful here in Europe, but the marked is flooded with crappy knock offs that barely last a day. About the CMP. We did just as you suggested. We took a sharp piece of metal and made a deep scratch along the CMP mount and head. When you move the CMP, the 2 parts of the scratch do not align anymore. And it's easy to put back. Thanks for everything, good luck to you too! When we get it fired up I will take some readings with a scope and post an update. I am willing to help you write an article on that if you want to add it to the main site later, regarding the whole swap or just the tach! RE: Driving 97 kick tach after J18A engine swap - fixkick - 09-17-2020 (09-17-2020, 05:59 AM)maroka Wrote: It's a shame really, they're good cars. Super strong chassis/running gear. "I drive an offroad car, but I maintain a normal car" is what my dad uses to justify still owning an fixing that thing. He bought it 8 years ago and it's actually appreciated in value since then. At least here, good kick/tracker (we call them Vitara) is hard to come by and even if you do, it costs the same as a BMW x3/x5. Parts are plentiful here in Europe, but the marked is flooded with crappy knock offs that barely last a day.it is a great off road and snow car. for sure. but here In uSA sales collapsed , many want hug powerful engines here, and cheap gas here. $1.81 a gallon here. yes here too increased value, the cars are less found used each day but some like it and that drives up prices on shrinking base of used cars. $500 car is now $1500. (beater vitara/sidekick/trackers) and and jeep wk wranglers 2020 stats. From $51,950 new Based on Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) 1996 to 2019 $4,400 - 58,960 times are a changing and not good, inflation is never fun. RE: Driving 97 kick tach after J18A engine swap - fixkick - 09-17-2020 that some big time ugly burns on D6, I hope that cleans up. RE: Driving 97 kick tach after J18A engine swap - fixkick - 09-17-2020 here is a not burned 90 https://fixkick.com/ECU/hell/html/image_16.html RE: Driving 97 kick tach after J18A engine swap - maroka - 11-28-2020 So, a little update. I know it has been a while, but between my father being called on a repair and leaving the country and the j18 blowing a head gasket and university starting it has all been a little overwhelming for me. My old man fixed the bearings, started it up, the thermostat had stuck closed, by the time he shut it off it had already overheated (we suppose) so it started blowing bubbles inside the coolant. My dad works as a ship mechanic, and he got called on a repair trip, so he left it for me to fix. Being my first time tearing apart an engine by myself, I was a little bit intimidated. Anyway, I pulled the head off. Took it to a machinist and he said he had to take of 0.06mm off to make it level. It had warped between cyl 2 and 3. The black soot on the top of the cylinder liner where the head gasket should seal confirmed my suspicion that cyl2 was the culprit. After I got it back from the machinist, I put on some new valve seals and polished the valves. I managed to get it back together, with the exception of the valve cover and accessory belt which I didn't have time to install, since I had to go back to university. I hope that I can get it started this weekend. In the meantime I started to do some research on my project car which is a MK2 Golf GTI in which I will be putting a 16V engine from a MK3 running Speeduino engine management (and turbocharging it down the road). This is off the topic, but I'll get to the point, I promise. I started doing research on how I'm going to drive my stock MK2 Golf tach when I get rid of the dizzy and go COP. Then I came across this: https://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=40365 From my understanding it is just a transistor switched by the PWM tach output of the ECU which then applies and cuts power to the inductor, producing the high voltage that the tach wants to see. I also read that some tachs built for reading off the coil negative also work with simple 12V square wave. I also came across this video. The guy uses the coil inside the relay to create the high voltage kickback that the tach needs to read: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySmWk_5GBdY&ab_channel=TimmyLundin RE: Driving 97 kick tach after J18A engine swap - fixkick - 11-29-2020 (11-28-2020, 06:53 AM)maroka Wrote: So, a little update. RE: Driving 97 kick tach after J18A engine swap - fixkick - 11-29-2020 lets do this another way, sure scope the signal, sure, to see Polarity and PW, pulse width, (and the horror of back EFI is seen , the G16 has suppressor to stop that a module up front) then use function generator set square wave pulse mode, a bench tool that can very easy generate pulse at slow rates (just like the engine does.) then make the same pulse as the car but only 12vdc swing, 0,12,0,12, if that is the current baseline swing do that only see the tacho does work and no COIL is needed nor wanted. that is the best way to do that, or just remove the coil and use 100ohm resistor in place of your relay coil. and get nice clean 12vdc pulses or 5v pulses if that is called for.. in the MS you can invert outputs of wrong, do not do that that to COP or it burns up fast. if you dig into the G16 brown wire tacho line fully , reverse engineer it you see that they do all the can to get ride of the huge back EMF kick back pulse. ours is near 400v, a very dangerous level in to any kind of silicon for sure MOSFET transistors. some relays coils have built in diode clamp snubbers inside, so making this path totally unpredictable , both kinds, used on no maker of relay and p/n told. not all relays are the same,. |