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+--- Thread: 1995 tracker automatic overheats (/thread-1995-tracker-automatic-overheats)
1995 tracker automatic overheats - Charlieanddawn - 09-11-2013
My 95 Tracker tintop automatic 16v, new radiator,radiator cap,thermostat,
Antifreeze moves well thru radiator,fan locks up when warmed up, no cat.
Timed 5 before TDC with jumper in place
No bubbles in radiator.
Issues are EGR 51 code and torque converter does not seem to lock up.
We usually carry a load of 650 lbs.
After climbing long hills in Colorado anti freeze spits from expansion tank only upon shut off.
Eventually expansion tank is empty, but the radiator only needs a little antifreeze to be topped off.
Any Ideas? Could it be heat buildup from the torque converter not locking up or the EGR?
Thanks
Charlie
95 Tracker Tin top
202,000 miles not rebuilt
RE: 1995 tracker automatic overheats - fixkick - 09-12-2013
(09-11-2013, 06:00 AM)Charlieanddawn Wrote: My 95 Tracker tintop automatic 16v, new radiator,radiator cap,thermostat,
Antifreeze moves well thru radiator,fan locks up when warmed up, no cat.
Timed 5 before TDC with jumper in place GOOD !
No bubbles in radiator. (always full to top of rad actual top tank at the cap ,(off) cold each day , right?
Issues are EGR 51 code and torque converter does not seem to lock up. (side issues but the EGR does lower engine temps and valves last longer)
We usually carry a load of 650 lbs.
After climbing long hills in Colorado anti freeze spits from expansion tank only upon shut off. ( too hot)
all worst case, high altitude is thin air, thin air cools rad, not too good.
excess weight, more load, more work, more work, more heat.
no big deal a good sidekick does this easy.
Eventually expansion tank is empty, but the radiator only needs a little antifreeze to be topped off.
you mean , it goes empty only on cool down. right? the radiator does suck the fluid back, when lost, this is normal , for lost rad fluid.
does it overheat moving fast (lots of air on RAD?) only slow. i guess you dont have AC?
is the engine pinging at any time? aka. knock and detonation , the last name says it best.
Any Ideas? Could it be heat buildup from the torque converter not locking up or the EGR? I dont think so but all this adds.
Thanks
Charlie
95 Tracker Tin top
202,000 miles not rebuilt
Id , use my IR gun in 5 min hot, 190f or 180f if stock stat.
id point my pyrogun ($15) at the rad tubes , after 20mile drive, or until roasting fully hot.
and see the same temp, 1inch down from top of tubes, left to right.
then see same temp, bottom of tubes, left to right. i did a theramalgram on mine.
http://www.fixkick.com/Cooling-engine/therm-o-gram.html
any tube left to right that is reading way different that its partner, is clogged.
the most amazing tool ever.
no burned hands ever..
about 155 f top row
and as low as 125 bottom right lower side runs cooler as it is combined total tube effect at bottom tank.
but the tubes should all be the same , in a horizontal plane.
id bet:
1; Clogged rad tubes. (that AT NEEDS A 100% GOOD RAD, that AT does pukes tons of heat,)
2; Slipping fan belt , some do so with no sound at all.
3: bad impeller on pump. (some get eaten up by electrolysis, so thin nothings.. or full of holes.)
IMO the stock RAD size is plenty big, and for sure has excess capacity, so what is eating up that excess?
a clogged tube kills the excess capacity, and in the worst case, slow it will over heat.
only 2 ways to fail, macro.
1: engine makes too much heat, I think not.
2: bad cooling.
http://www.fixkick.com/overheating.html
good luck to you.