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No crank click sound problem then starts fine - Printable Version

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RE: No crank click sound problem then starts fine - fixkick - 11-06-2014

the brakes are a different issue.
they have there own system. simple.

if you look at the pdf link i posted, all that is there.
every inch.

that faint means the dash lamp use very little current, and glow real easy, totally unlike the real blinkers/


the brakes use it own fuse
and own wires
and own switch
and own lamps
unrelated to blinkers.

the brakes are a different issue.
they have there own system. simple.

if you look at the pdf link i posted, all that is there.
every inch.

that faint means the dash lamp use very little current, and glow real easy, totally unlike the real blinkers/

i think you mean, with the brakes applied, my dash blinker lamp glows a tad.
this is a bad lamp (shorted, like i told you, if the brass bases fail they short just LIKE THAT)
you need to unplug all tail lamps. (blinkers)
then install one new lamp not used, and for SURE not shorted, like the all love to do.
then get the blinkers to work.

the blinker module is electronic, its not just some simple relay , in fact that is only one small part of it.
lets say you fail to remove shorted lamps.from car, 4 corners.
if that shorted lamps sends, 12vdc from the brakes feed to the blink feed what will happen
easy the blinker electronics will go nuts. it will shut down.

when the glue in the lamps fails, the operator turns it and the insides short. so common this is like rain gets us wet/



the brakes use it own fuse "stop"
and own wires
and own switch
and own lamps
unrelated to blinkers.
see page 5, that is the brake page.
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/95%20electrics/all-lamps95b.pdf

or is a trailer wiring hack job with the brakes shorted to binks
but that would only happen on 1 side.

if brakes were shorted to left, the right blinkers would still work
same with shorted bulbs. due to the switch now open on left blinks.