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+--- Thread: No crank click sound problem then starts fine (/thread-no-crank-click-sound-problem-then-starts-fine)
RE: No crank click sound problem then starts fine - zukitrek - 10-15-2014
The issue was with the rear right only. Flashers do not work now because when disassemlbing combo switch I left red button/switch out
(, but was working before, regardless of the flasher issue. Fuse is the correct one (15 blue), actually it never blew. I have extra bulbs which I can try. No collision under my ownership and I'm sure owners before did not either. I'm going forth with the overload issue. You mean remove front and rear blinkers bulbs? Would the combo switch had suffered damage when smoke came out?J
RE: No crank click sound problem then starts fine - fixkick - 10-15-2014
anything electric that overloads, can fail , weaken or have lower service life.
the bulbs can short.
so the right front blinks perfectly (or dimly) and the RR is dead, dim or what.
LF ok
LR ok
RR what? dead or dim?
RF what?
seems if only RR is bad, then RR is shorted. but is it dim or dread. dime would be shorted and out would be bad lamp or wire cuts. or corrosion in the socket.
this system is super simple system, no computers behind the tails lamps and all that complexity.
just a bulb, a socket and a wire.
100years same thing simple.
the fuse many not blow in an overload
that is because the blinker module, cuts current in 1/2 , flash, out, flash out. 1/2.
and it also limits current.'
and is designed to act odd under overloads.
and the cheap weak suzuki wiring, will act as a current limit, (small copper gauge)
the right side is wired in PARALLEL. so any short on that side, causes and overload. front or rear, or between.
any open on that line will only effect that end of car.
RE: No crank click sound problem then starts fine - zukitrek - 10-15-2014
Well now neither of them work, fuse was removed in fear of further problems, but I put it back briefly today to test blinkers and they did not work at all, front and rear. Before the smoke only right rear that I can remember. Both left were OK.
RE: No crank click sound problem then starts fine - fixkick - 10-15-2014
replace both dead side bulbs. that be first
when doing so, make sure no corrosion in the sockets.
RE: No crank click sound problem then starts fine - zukitrek - 10-27-2014
Fix, I think I found the problem? Alternator cable that goes to the fuse box next to battery was corroded. It broke off while checking positive, negative wire and cleaning up the starter/solenoid. Could this be responsible for the no start, turn signal problem?
J
RE: No crank click sound problem then starts fine - fixkick - 10-27-2014
very common , these main box and that wire do corrode fast on salted roads
that causes the battery to discharge,
the battery when charged, is 12.6vdc rested (not alaska, but avg,. warm day)
see the green here.
http://www.fixkick.com/electrical-failure.html
RE: No crank click sound problem then starts fine - zukitrek - 10-27-2014
It was corroded and broke off at the alternator connector side. The fuse box end is OK.
J
Turn signal sockets left rear are OK with no corrosion, but they still don't work. Tried to see the black wire out of the combo switch but it is daunting. I ll have to revise the schematics again.
J
RE: No crank click sound problem then starts fine - zukitrek - 10-27-2014
KIk, I have put the 15a fuse back and turn signal still don't work. I disassembled the combo switch after the smoke event to see if anything was burnt (none was) and when assembling back the hazard connector was left out, Does this has to do with turn signals not working? Now none of the signals work, rear or front.
RE: No crank click sound problem then starts fine - fixkick - 11-06-2014
Dead blinkers.
want to learn to use a cheap volt meter. ?
it will tell you why it fails, it will never lie to you.
its easy, just measure the voltage, its 100% safe too, 12vdc will not hurt you.
dead turns front and rear. both left and right dead, and the hazards are not working so we can not know that , right?
same you broke hazards as that feature makes trouble shooting far more easy.... so we dont have it....
have leather sewing needle for backprobing, 10cents.
we can do the 1 step at at time.
lets do that
meter in hand, set dial to 20vdc range or volts DC if meter autoranges.
meter minus black test lead to body metal, (shiny metal not plastic or just paint)
meter red lead. is your tests next touch the 3 , spots below. attach the sewing needle here to back probe.
keyon,
left blinker lever throw, dash lamp is dead, right>?
see what i did for you here, see all those voltages.
why not check them. with the meter./???????
![[Image: 3_28_10_14_5_45_08.jpeg]](http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/gallery/3_28_10_14_5_45_08.jpeg)
test one.
what is the voltage (keyon blinking) at RELAY pin 3? (yellow-white ) wire,
it must be 12vdc, must.
is it?
we can find the true cause easy, with one $10 meter and one 10cent needle.
RE: No crank click sound problem then starts fine - zukitrek - 11-06-2014
Great I'll try it. You are the best. On another note and within the same topic, remember that I put the fuse back for the blinkers? Well I forgot about it and the thingy I told you about when you pressed the brake pedal happened again. The dash right blinker light would come on very faint?
J