(11-11-2015, 11:32 PM)fixkick Wrote: see this? blue-black is 12vdc power. and lt.green-black is other wire,. you are connecting to the DLC freeze pins, why are you doing that?
i wanted you to measure the ISC pins directly. this is the signal that drivers the ISC, directly. and get it to year 7vdc.
Now I understand the meaning of being blind as you not being here. I did uses the wires at the ISC connector just that I did not see right the wire colors? But I must have done it wrong. Ill send pic today as to the colors, but I checked them again and saw the green/black wire. But nothing was connected to the DLC freeze pins. All was at the 2 wires out of the ISC.

one why to cause that is to have, the idle switch stuck open....
or have spark timing way off, say , advanced. Where is that switch? Read about it these last couple of days. Spark timing I doubt it, but I can check again.

is you have never drove a fully running right sidekick or vitara.?
one that has a working ISC.!You got that right, thats is why Im asking you, otherwise why bother?

i never would have guessed that. but sure can happen.
that is why i kept asking for accurate RPM numbers!

as you might not know, the ECU is hard coded for 800 exactly (+-50 rpm) hard hard coded,! (hot, a/c off and P/s not in overload)
so if its off more that 50 RPm, then i know the SERVO system is DOWN.

see?
accurate readings matter, on cars.
as is noting that idle regulation is DEAD.

at hot idle regulation works 100% perfect.
even with a huge engine load change, from park to drive.
huge.
if not ?,its broken.

(11-12-2015, 01:43 AM)fixkick Wrote: yes ,right wires... (did you tell me before you are color blind?, sorry if you are, very sorry)
No im not, but saw the wires real quick, sent you the post, I was waiting for you response, I was in a hurry, then I reviewed schem and did test. Was not going to send you another post saying "I found the wire". Water under the bridge. But no color blindness here.
the idle switch tells the ECU, I'm at idle now, and the ISC goes online for idle. servo.
the TPS idle switch. (all cars do this, the j18/20 sees 0.5v on throttle angle and goes IDLE now. no switch.) we have a real switch here, and it must work.
its the first thing to calibrate on any G16, or many things fail, freeze jumper, idle, EGR, and cut fuel mode. of ecu.
first.

those are correct wire
i think now , your DMM does not like that 200 hz square wave, MANY DONT.
there are only trying more meters, even an analog needle meter might work.


a DMM is a bipolar meter, the DC meter can be connected up backwards and works prefect in fact the LCD will show - or + to tell you what it is.
for example the car battery will read, -12.6 vdc with leads backwards, it all ok.
that.So it would not matter pos or neg to any of the ISC wires? But probes should be at the wires right, not neg to ground, say if pos is on any of the 2 wires? Im not asking this now, I let you know how I did test n my last post, that neg probe was a engine metal.
but not the needle meter, the needle goes backwards and hits the peg, telling the OPr, that leads backwards, the progress of electronics...
some meters do not like 200hz on the DC scales.
nor will any work on AC as that cheap meter only does RMS volts, which we dont want.

nah really, many posters newer seen and EFI car run rigth. lots not..
make frames of reference hard. huh?Well this is my 2nd EFI car(had a 94 sunbird) and to my limited knowledge I can say they both run right, until problems arise due to old age and no maintenance.
like never riding a horse not sick then one day, OMG im going 40mph..... on this old nag. (she must be feeling her OATS)

TPS:
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/TPS-testing.html#MYWAY

TPS cal is first and for sure if the switch don't close every single time you drop the hammer(throttle)
it must every time, or it OUT OF CAL.

the tps switch goes to 0v at idle.
blue-white wire as seen here.
So you think I should check this just to rule this out. Remember as under my ownership none of these things you mention have been tampered with or molested: TPS switch, bleed screw, TV stop screw etc. But maybe old age is affecting now.

http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/8v-tbi-schematic91to95.jpg


this needs to work 100% of the time, or bad things happen. its very key sensor.

(11-12-2015, 02:26 AM)fixkick Wrote: the meter again is bipolar, the DMM can read -5v or +5v.
unlike any analog meter, unipolar.
yes that is what measure across these 2 pins means,
connect the meter leads to the 2 pins, (any order)
red to one , black test lead to the other, it hard to do, backprobing,
Not at all that was solved in a second. Will send you pics later.
as are all cars made, this is an acquired skill. with patience.
ok you die it wrong.
do not use the battery lugs, no not use the engine metal.
Got it. Will try again the right way tonight.

we want to see what the ECU is doing to the ISC only (rubber meet the road testing , the real deal)
its just 2 wires connect up and read it. backprobled,
your DMM could care LESS the polarity, (digital it is , with bipolar amps inside) un like any needle meter,
Got it. Thanks for that little piece of info.

to this , learn to use your meter
dial up, 20 VDC range.
now connect the 2 test leads to a 9 volt (smoke det. battery) in 60s called a "transistor radio battery"
see that LDC< see that + sign or - minus sign
Ok, yes Ive seen this happen.
now reverse the leads, see the sign change, and still read 9v. bingo, meter is BIPOLAR..
if you worked on computers you'd see minus power supplies, like -12v , and -5vdc, very common,
Hahaha i worked using computers but not on them. OK.


when folks say car runs great, it means zero to me.
seen 1000s say that, in limphome and backup modes.
Would there be lamp flashing in cluster, if Yes? Not mine. No lamp and have to use jumper clip? well 12;s all the way the times I have done it
what it means is car moves. ok, kinda.....
and a trail of black smoke behind it.
Not mine, either.

i told you can take any 90s car that runs and find 5 or more thing wrong, very wrong. (never seen an exception)
the car is designed to run with bad things... unlike any carb car made, EFI runs, under horrid conditions.
my lawn more runs, and has no spark advance. zero !
see?
so will back up mode and will run just like lawn mower, black smoke everywhere.

---

I'm from Missouri. show me!
Was not it TX?


i never assume, why do that?
your car will not idle right,
Thats what we are trying to fix.
i can list 20 things wrong that can cause that..

assuming is wrong to any tech,
we assume there is one thing, a car there, NOTHING ELSE.
Agreed

The mech, drives car, scans it , check to see if all sensor read rigth.
see that close loop works at hot idle and light cruise.
and that the EGR works
First thing fixed on it a long time ago, remember?
and the idle switch and the idle controls all wokr.
all this in a test drive , that i cant do.
i can find like 5 things wrong in 5min, sometimes, seconds.
Thats why Im asking you. I know not being here makes it difficult but I got to try.
by sight , sound , and felt. (smelt, raw HC black smoke, fuel leaks smells, burning oil... , and overheated CAT i can smell fast but not here.)

your car id have heared the idle wrong (hot) in 1 second., and that it not regulating in 1`min.

---

if you had a real tachometer
we'd have seen idle too low, way back when
see?
see how tools make the man (makes a tech savvy)
just by knowing what 800 means.... and holding.

i can hear misfire
i can see and engine shake at idle.
i can hear the isc hunt
i can see the ISC not working at all in what 5 min work. or less, (fixing it way longer)
i can see 12s flashing driving for 1hour,
i can test the idle switch to see if it works 10 times in a row.. no less. blip, blip, blip, yup seems to work.
then make sure the isc pinch test works.
then check spark timing, if way off, setting the Duty cycle is a total waste of effort.
in about 1hr work i can check all things on the engine, using tools. with a scan tool faster.
I can tell some but when in doubt you ask the person that knows the most, in this case you sir.


the car is old , somethings are bad. some weak. some flakey,
what's new here? nothing,
Well overhauling ignition system components, EGR and timing component don't count? Now overhauled tranny? Already driven 200 miles going up, down and no probs on that. You have to know all these have been replace with real parts, and no china knockoff crap. These are new. But not the sensors and thats where we focusing now.
all old cars are like that. all are.
never seen one example opposite.