(04-25-2017, 12:37 PM)Banned Wrote: Thanks so much Fixkick for a very detailed answer and very much appreciate what you do for us,
this is what I've done since:

Replaced distributor w/re-manufactured, for kicks applied vacuum 400mm and held.
Not able to do timing since idle's all over the place. The dizzy I replaced also had something loose inside, one of the
weights (springs) seemed to be loose, broken. Also the rotor spring back did not go back smoothly as does the new one.
After a few test drives the surge seems to be faster than before and after car warms up.

I SUSPECT YOU HAVE THE DECIMIAL POINT WRONG IN EACH OF THE BELOW.
THE METER I GUESS, IS AN AUTORANGER AND WITH LCD DISPLAY AND ON OHMS THERE IS "K" SYMBOL YOU MISSED SEEING? JUST LIKE CARS TACHOMETER.

Yes the MAT (not IAT) was bad, had a big crack just like in the pictures you have on your site, vacuum is a pretty and mighty powerful force, no? and these are the characteristics I recorded. ,,MAT IS OLD NAME AND IS OK TO USE.
(DECIMAL POINTS WRONG) BUT I CORRECTED 176 FOR YOUR, THIS IS IAT, INTAKE AIR TEMP IN PAN OF HOT WATER IT'S WINNER.

in PAN OF hot water:F 70° = 2.34 Ω
104° = 1.63 Ω
140° = .77 Ω
176° = .38 Ω (380 OHMS IS CORRECT NEVER, .38) (LCD SHOWS .38k = 380 OHMS)
212° = .21 Ω
ohms spiked severely at least once as water temperature rose between 140 and 176
MAT was replaced, also seemed to not have been tightened by previous bad guy and had a steel corroded washer that did not fit very well on center.
BOTH SENSORS NORMALLY READ THE SAME, THE IAT (MAT OLD NAME) READS SAME AS ECT. ONLY THE AIR SENSOR , IAT IS FASTER, (LESS MASS)
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/ECT/my-plot-ect.JPG

http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/temp-sensors.html
Today I was in hot water PAN again as I've had suspicion of the ECT sensor or possibly the bad guy that installed the thermostat did not do it right:
ECT sensor test
Key on/motor off
Result: Voltage 4.71v Visually: ok
Characteristics:
Laser digital Thermometer
32° = 5.89 Ω 589 OHMS IS CORRECT NUMBER, DECIMAL POINT IS WRONG . mine reads exactly same
68° = 2.05 Ω
70° = 1.95 Ω
104° = 1.00 Ω
140° = .46 Ω
176° = .27 Ω VERY NORMAL 270 OHMS, 300 IS PAR.
THE DATA SHEETS ARE HERE FROM SUZUKI AND GEO.
AND MINE.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/temp-sensors.html
KEEP IN MIND THE SENSORS ARE NOT PRECISION, AT ALL, -+10 or +-20% accuracy, says suzuki or GM depends on year what they said.

Analog Thermometer
32° = 5.88 Ω
65° = 2.66 Ω
104° = 1.36 Ω
140° = .59 Ω
176° = .35 Ω 350ohms , the DP is wrong, sorry.

Also today: Checked thermostat for proper installation, position and visual inspection.
Result: hot water test begins to open at 178°, full open at 180° degrees, weep hole to front and visually looks like a new part.
Also replaced wires with Bosch, nice fitting, the previous had corrosion even though they were replaced a few years ago, yeah some off brand junk, dizzy cap and rotor also new with good quality type.
CEL never goes on except when ignition on/motor off.
CODES: 12, 12, 12... all day and all night long for the last 5 years I've owned it. Never throws anything else even though it idles like a mongrel from hell.
CODE 12 ONLY ,MEANS (SENSORS DIDNT FALL OFF, OR SHORT OR OPEN) CODE 12, IS GOOD, BUT TELLS LITTLE. BUT GOOD TO KNOW.

ISC at 6.6 ohms and sealed nicely. ISC is only a few years old. (GOOD , I DIDNT KNOW THAT, GOOD )
PCV test. at idle, placing finger over nipple, ticks and sucks replaced a few years ago..
Cleaned vacuum nipple at manifold for dashpot vsv vacuum supply and replaced vacuum hose
(nipple to vsv)
Re-grounded fuel pump ground at L tail lamp. Oiled fuel pump terminals at rear lamp housing and ground.
Checked engine grounds and ECM ground for positive contact.

Will test for fuel pressure and injector drip next after I reinstall the coolant thermostat and ECT sensor.
I tried the timing light on the injector with motor idling but could not see any fuel spray pattern...
also will try timing the darn thing if I can get it to idle at 800 for a few seconds which it does after warming car up and turning it off for about 10 minutes, it idles nicely but then it starts gaining speed until it reaches 2000 and then it starts its surging.

(04-29-2017, 03:41 AM)Banned Wrote: April 26, 2017
TPS calibrated.
TPS Test Results:
CD idle = 0 ohms
CD full open = infinity
AD idle = 5.5k
BD idle = 0.5k
BD Full Open = 5.5k
looks ok, there,
the TPS calibration on any 89/90 USA with the NO WATER ISC actuator is very difficult the suzuki pages are on my site covering this
the reasons its hard, no bleed screw, so you have to adjust idle to 800 then set tps calib (with feeler gage) the set idle then the feeler gap over and over until its right, a ROYAL PAIN!
the main page is here
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/TPS-testing.html
the page from suzuki is here
http://www.fixkick.com/All-Pdfs/M89/TPS/89-98TPS-calibration.html




Did not do live test can't find probes that don't damage wires. Where did you get yours Fixkick?

This is called back probing, one can use, 10cent leather sewing needles in a jam or buy them from Pomona, co. or
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AizTcrU5Egk

http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/NOID101.html#probe

with a set of alligator clips needles work.
you buy full meter probe kits with needles all ready there, at all time lead makers, like Pomona makes.. (oldest co. in calif that i buy from for 50 years)



TPS seemed to have been fully clockwise, possibly P.O.? (thats wrong)
if tps set wrong ,the car will hesitated at tip-in throttle. or idle speed regulation is dead.

Timing set 8° @ 800 RPM hot. Vacuum advance now operating.
Pointed laser thermometer at thermostat housing when hot = 180° - 200°
GOOD

TBI throat is very clean and moves freely, nothing blocking it.

Brake Booster did 300mm and held, however I could not make it go higher since my hose hook-ups are crude.
Should I re-test or the above number or good enough?

O2 sensor was replaced about 5 years ago, but, in the mean time I ran the car with a bad cat. for 4 years, last year I replaced complete exhaust system (manifold back) including the cat. Did the no cat kill the o2 sensor and now the o2 sensor is getting even with the cat? (my apologies for the bad humor)
love this humor, its great
the cat (if no smog tests) only needs to not be missing nor rodded out. it must have back pressure for EGR to work if EGR not needed then no cat needed.



This morning test drove it and started out at 1600 rpm and slowly climbed to 2100 rpm and then the surging began, 2100 to 1600 to 2100 to 1600 and so on. Should point out that the previous years when it did surge was about 40° humid and especially after running on the expressway but only did it a few times, this time since December of last year it hasn't stopped except when it gets over 70° then it behaves somewhat.


When it ran "right" it went through start up motions well, 2300 rpm after 7 seconds down to 1900 and slowly to 800rpm after a few miles. Lights raised the rpm by 100 or so, ps raised it another 100 or so and ac raisedt up 400 rpms. I did have to set idle after winter and after summer by about 100 rpms uf that kind of info helps.
I live in Chicago but hardly drive it in the winter or at least when there's no salt on the ground.