this slide show, will demonstrate some things , not seen in the huge manual. the top thing being how to get the upper board, hinged up and how to find test points, and the A16 card. |
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not mine but is nice 3D view. |
my cars, CKP sensork 1:36 tone ring on crank shaft. |
never run these chips with heat sinks like here with out a huge external fan of at least 12 inches, or they WILL burn to a crisp, and btw, you cant buy new ones. |
only mess with that jumper , only at wits end, RTM read the PDF book here |
this is the high voltage dog cage, do not put hands on the parts. or bam you are shocked or worse. The CRT has 14,000 volts on the side. make sure the fan is good first. clean it of all dust bunnies..... |
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The Non A is easy, just hot wire it , replace battery, with a non grounded soldering pencil or tiny propane iron to prevent grounding out the RAM pin 24, scope is not plugged in ! IF the scope is the A model this tactic is not going to work , so you just hot wire the actual pin 24/12 . or if the data is still good inside the BAT/RAM then unsolder it ,same way as above and then back it up using any 27C256 Eprom programmer, to hex files , then reprogram then DALLAS chip. and solder it back in, using the same trick using a fully insulated soldering pencil ( use ground strap on you foot or arm to avoid ESD damage. Key factor here is not grounding pin 24 ever. |
if the CRT is dead, this be first thing to watch and the top right corner of CRT bezel edge the life signs of the GPIB LEDs there. RTM |
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first place to check power supply voltages are here. |
those 2 cam locks are a suns of beaches. the are 1/4 turn make sure they are collaped then gently raise card , remove 3 torx screws first. 5 points lock this PCB down. only. |
Tilt top board this far and stop. then.... |
remove this flex pc connector. |
here it is , removed,scope runs with it off, its just rear panel jack sigs. |