Substitutions of ECU parts. 
Many parts are no longer made after
only 15 years., Mitsubishi parts
, in particular. This page is theory and for the desperate. (It
can be done, by matching the spec. of the original transistor)
The Cap's
can be bought at any electronics store or distributor.
Any entry level tech can replace them, even a TV repair shop. Any
Ham Radio op. USING ESD protective methods.
Sources:
MCM Electronics ( has carried Japanese transistors since 70s , like no
other )
Newark , owner of MCM
Mouser ( I like their lightning fast, fully automated
shipping !)
Digikey (Google them, they are BIG TIME sources, in N.America)
If you can't find an injector driver , try some of these.
My stock ECI injector driver was a 2SD1415 an NPN bipolar
Silicon transistor used by Mitsubishi ( a super beta part a
"darlington")
MCM a TOP
SOURCE 1 !
Source
2
Source3 from
the pinball wizards. 85 cents !
That pesky corner cap. (did it
explode? dry out, leak, or rupture) { A love to fail part if ever 80-95}
47uf = 50uf ( yes, you
can go higher, if it fits.)
( spec on these is loose. -20% to +80% ) 38uf lowest DMM
meter reading. This is the Capacitance in micro Farads or
1E-6 farads.
My corner cap on some ECU are 100uf
at 50v. (meter reads at least 80uf or it's bad)
50vdc and 63v are commonly the same and is max working voltage( I
have ECU's identical with both values used)
(keep in mind, the corner cap must sustain all car 12v power noise and
spikes and are not trivial)
Do not use lower 16v or 25v parts for 50v or anything below marked
part. (non
main caps, are so marked) (however the 63v part , you can use 50v
or 75v)
Get the lowest ESR rating you can find. but is not
critical.
Get the highest Temperature rating which is 105C.
What ever you buy, will work great, considering yours is dead
open.
Even cheap RadioShack parts will work
well. For a year at least. (in a pinch)
Do
clean up the acid spills (water and bicarb mixed)
Do neutralize said acid and correct all acid damage to circuit traces,
with jumper
straps (bare wire) if open circuit now ,due to acid etching.
Not all ECU's can be
repaired, the Microprocessor has a ROM and is programmed by
Mitsubishi, and is not available.
Some
ECU can burn up, or get hit with lightning, or be soaked in brackish
water (salt?) ( yes, I've seen every type of failure !)
Or Collision damage, unlimited. (damage and cracks of any size or
locations even inside components)
But we can fix all open traces on the PCB, and repair all bad CAPS and
most, if not all transistors.
ECU with blown up HYBRIDS
, are NOT SOLD.
If ECU gets wet , bake it at 120F , and pray.
The microprocessor is not replaceable with out the ROM code from
Suzuki, and where would you get that? (a major hacking
project , that would be)
The SIP'S dead ?
(single inline packaged transistor array) Are no longer
made! As are the SIP Hybrids.
This subs. link below, is pure theory, I have not tried it yet. (one
guy is trying it now)
S.I.P. Transistors
substitutes? M526x here.
Each driver , on the board (a transitor) drives each output, all
relays, all solenoids, all injectors. All can be repaired. Each driver
is documented on my ECU page.
Many of the original
discrete transistors, can still be bought, would wide.
Get the part number off the devices and search for it , you may find
it.
Some simple parts are not
sold , like the CE1F3.
You may substitute other
transistors for this tiny, but powerful part, and cheap. 80cents
to $2 each
For Obsolete CE1F3 part.
(experimental topic) typical of TCC relay driver !
This orig. 60v, 2 amp part is designed to drive inductive loads. and is
a super beta part (a Darlington, or ?)
This ZVN part substitution will withstand the coils inductive back
kicks as the mfg says. 25 mJ rated. See
appl. guide here.
Is designed for automotive (says IDEAL) and will drive .6amp relays no
problem. Can withstand HUGE load Dumps.
It uses a zener body diode inside the ZVN part that eats up
to 25mJ energy, for breakfast. (from coil kick-backs)
Orig on left, new on the right.
subs. to this ? >>
ZVN4306
Data sheet is here.
The 16v ECU uses this lil' bugger ! for, CEL, TCC, EGR, EVAP, and the
fuel pump driver. (ouch)
This part is used on newer cars. (advanced hacking here , ok? )
One of the best low cost and simple injection drivers, is by IR,
or International Rectifier.
Can be substituted for old drivers. (needs 4vdc on gate to
turn on, so will need a driver)
and a 27 ohm series gate resistor for
DS(crss ) to stop capacitance self gating issues with inductive loads.
Best, is to drive the below FET with MOS driver like the MC34151P
chip,
with or with out inversion, as applicable. (ours needs no inversion)
Note clamp diode and avalanching
feature !
or even more
powerful this one.
Secret Japnaness transistor
codes:
Jap. Transistor part number,
prefixes: (non Jedec)
2SA.... (PNP)
2SB.... (PNP, power)
2SC.... (NPN and NPN HF power)
2SD.... (NPN, power)
2SJ.... (P channel FET)
From the data sheet collection of HITACHI, NEC, SONY, TOSHIBA
2SK.... (N channel FET)
From the data sheet collection of HITACHI, MATSUSHITA,
MITSUBISHI, NEC,
ROHM, SONY, TOSHIBA
3SK.... (N channel DGMOSFET)
In the data sheet collection of NEC and SONY
Example , I pull the Injector driver transistor it reads
D1415 I add 2S and get 2SD1415 and am correct.
All comments assumes you don't have a cache of dead ECU's laying about,
ready to cannibalize.!
rev 1 ++++ 5-18 -2011 ,
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