TIMING BELT , fast crank to
cam timing check. (See Acid test here)
This page if for those, that don't do the 60K service.
Skip #2 Distributor "Dizzy" step , only the cam belt counts and it's keys, and the 6 point alignments or you will get a bad engine ! (low compression) Step 3 is the only true way to get #4 firing.
The CAM is always timed to #4 firing, if you can not understand that, you will FAIL ! #4 is the rear cylinder.
This audit procedure allows you to find a very common timing belt slip, fast.
This simple audit , will show why your 150 to 170 PSI compression is now near 80 PSI. In about 30 minutes work,,, the acid test at the bottom of this page, cures all the other causes of low compression.
If lash is set wrong, you can, in fact get bad compression, and is usually horrible bad, and gets worse hot, and burns the valves to a crisp.
17mm deep wall socket .
10mm ratchet and socket , of any kind.
There are many cam cogs wheels, some have extra and false makes ("I") while the 89 year has no such thing, just a titty mark on the spoke and outer rim machine mark. (the 16v is rife with wrong marks, take care...)
The above, only finds slipped belts.
The Acid test, for bad keys and all ways to fail (factory spec, for #4 firing, TDC) The bottom key fails, because nobody reads factory TSB on topic, every one is caused by that FACT !
This is for serious mechanics, that can't get good compression on all 4 cyclinders (lash good)
16v (8v in red)
cam key down
cam sprocket key to E slot in (hub) (early 8v has no extra slot) see that here.
cam sprocket E spoke , rim mark at 12pm at top back pan mark (early 8v has no E, only a titty here)
crank key up (12pm)
crank cog mark (slash) 12pm
crank cog slash aligned with 12pm arrow on pump housing . 6 points aligned, then belt set right.
All belts fail for 1 reason, the owner did not do the 60,000 mile mandatory service.
rev 3 ++++ 10-07-2010 this is not my work ; this photo is from a poster on the suzuki forums. Added ACID test.