No start causes: (for the tool-less) or stalling…
This page proves, why guessing SUCKS. Sucks SWAP GAS!
1.6L 16 valve engine case example: (the more cylinders and parts, the more that can fail)
Why guessing fails, just my silly list of failures. (not wanting to test, but just guessing, wildly?)
CEL “check engine lamp dead”, so ECU is dead. a $400 guess.
The CEL glows running and driver ignores it. (and never scans PCM ever)
Engine failures aplenty: over 50 possible. I’LL LIST A FEW. NOT ALL.
16 head valves stuck, or bent, valve springs broken, valves burnt to crisp., any of 32 valve keepers missing,.
The valve guides so bad, they suck oil like mad, foul sparks in minutes and engine dies.
cracked or warped head, or block,
4 pistons cracked, water jackets cracked to head chambers or block cylinders cracked.
Head gasket blown.
12 Collapsed Piston rings. (oil leaking or antifreeze to combustion chambers)
Heavily scored, cylinder walls.
Cam shaft broken or cracked or cam dead for any reasons, or cam lobes flat.
Cam belt broken or stripped and slipped, cam or crank cog key stripped.
Cam drive problems or cam timing wrong, , be it gears/belts or (chains & guides bad?).
Cam drive cog wheel (or sproket) cracked, (was loose)
Cam cap screws got loose and cam floats and dies/jams/cracks?
Rockers bad, or broken or screws there, loose or missing.
Collapsed HLA, hydraluic Lash adjusters , or bucket lifters. Dead/stuck/broken or collapsed.
Warped head , or block deck or gasket bad.
Any intake system seals bad.
Distributor don’t spin. See cam above.
Cap, rotor, wires carbon tracked, every 60k miles, or so, sure that is called a tuneup.
or spark plugs, bad fouled, damaged or end of life, see tuneup or gapped wrong.
Spark timing way of, see cam drive caused.(Prev. owner liked to spin dizzy by guessing time? )
intake AIR filter packed, tuneup skipped. or full of mice nests,(critters)
more, citter damage, nests in air intake wires eaten for nesting.
collision damage to wires or anything related to EFI or spark.
ENGINE pull damage, the last guy just yanked out engine, devil may care to harness and sensors.
COP boots bad, P03xx errors, change them out (Coil over plug)
Fuel filter packed, wow tuneup’s do fix all this…
Pack rats chewed up wiring?
Bad CMP sensor, ignitor or ignition coil? (all rare 1991+) Some cars have CKP sensor that can fail.
the G16B engine will not stall with a bad CKP, but does throw DTC errors like mad.
any loose or corroded wires to any EFI parts, at all and for sure the fuel pump.
bad primary wiring from battery to fender fuse box and to cab fuse box. (corrosion)
bad grounds, to any of EFI system parts. (fuel or spark)
bad Fuel pump regulator (4 tests)
weak or dead fuel pump. or 12vdc power to it weak or dead.
bad injectors, leaking clogged or weak or dead. (balance test them)
wrong gas cap, tank pulls a hard vacuum, pump bogs and stalls. and tank caves in.”have photos”
EFI system hacks.”wired wrong now” wrong parts?
Sensors dead, MAP/MAF,ECT, or EGR main valve stuck wide open.
Cat melted and blocks exhaust 100% The engine no longer can pump air.
Cat guts (brick) broken to bits, and blasted to muffer,and now its plugged up. See can’t pump air.
The early MPI G16B Suzuki with the 90deg,elbow at exhaust header, collector has inner shell that collapes, and blocks exhaust (see TSB Suzuki recall, and no spares in stock, way to go Suzuki!)
Huge intake air leaks on MPI engine.(any vacuum hoses cracked?) If bad enough, it may not start.
ISC air valve stuck closed, and or IAC dead. (starves air and flood)
flooding, due to lost park , lost air supply , or excessive fuel pressure or fibbing ECT (reads too cold)
or slipped cam, will flood engines. as will ECU locked up in FAILSAFE/Backup mode.
Just about all failures end in flooding (but not dead CKP/CMP dead ignitor, ECU cuts fuel for most )
A stuck closed, ISC or melted cat causes flooding, (no air , or can’t pump air)
Bad battery cables. (works one moment (cranks) then fails to start. clean lugs or replace if old?
weak battery? not 12.6v rested. but usually causes weak cranking. 11v (min) cranking is a goal.
bad fuel pump relay.
bad main relay.
ECU logic refuses to run fuel pump to run. (bad inputs to ecu)
Only doing tests and or inspections, finds them all.
Some bad parts can hide,effects of other bad parts (failsafe can do that).
Case in point, ECU in backup mode, you fix that, and there are 4 DTC errors now, sure can!
like coming out of a comma(backup) and you wake up and have a head ache, and puking and sore toes.
Even a bad O2 sensor can make car run better! , for ,more power,and less MPG.
What you have wrong , is dictated by Fate, luck, time, wear,age, abuse and heat.
On many old cars I see 2 or 3 parts bad, or wrong parts installed or installed wrong.
at the least. (end why guess)
Now a shorter list. (pure physics)
Engine is bad, for 100 reasons, including no air supply or can’t pump air , compression low.
Bad spark or timed wrong.
bad ECU actuators,(injectors tops list here)
bad fueling for any reason and bad fuel. too much or too little.
A new ECU is last on list. (unless $400 to $1000 to guess, is good thing)